Uhhh Primers

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

So I'm autobody stupid basically, I'm gonna learn, I want to, SO what should each type of primer be used for and at what stage, by types I Mean;

Epoxy
Urethane
Self-etch
High-build self-etch
Primer sealer
Polyester

I appreciate any help I receive

Nick

 

[azblackhemi]

Ok here we go: Epoxy Primer goes direct to bare metal. The bare metal must be clean and abraded (scratched up) for maximum adhesion.
Urethane means it is a two part (catalyzed) material.
Self etching is a direct to metal primer that has an acid type material in it to make it bite in to bare metal for adhesion.
High build Self Etch would have filling properties in addition to sticking to bare metal
Primer Sealer goes over the final sanded car just before the paint goes on. it is non sanding and helps with adhesion, eliminates sand scratch swelling and gives a uniform base for hiding.
Polyester Primer is a thick high build primer that fills minor imperfections well.

I have been using an Epoxy primer over bare metal. I have had problems with Self Etching primers over plastic fillers. The acid in them sometimes reacts with the filler and can soften it. Then I use a 2 part urethane fill primer. For a Primer Sealer I use the same Epoxy Primer I started with. I just ad half a part of the proper temperature range reducer. This system has worked very well for me for years however on the last couple of restorations I've done I switched to a "High Build Epoxy Primer" that does both stick to bare metal and fills very well with no shrinkage. It saves time by using one product in place of two and also reduces costs. I still use the regular Epoxy Primer for a sealer just before paint. Stay away from Lacquer Primers and the old school red spot putty's. Remember, get your undercoats right because if they fail they will take all that expensive paint with it.

 

[commando1]

I, myself, am a little bit smarter now.
Thanks, Chris.

 

[cm23uoc]

I think Nick also mentioned he's going to leave it in primer for a period of time and having it painted body color later. I've seen some primers to soak up humidity which leads to surface rust issues. What's the best way to avoid this problem, Chris ?

 

[MrMoparCHP]

I think Nick also mentioned he's going to leave it in primer for a period of time and having it painted body color later. I've seen some primers to soak up humidity which leads to surface rust issues. What's the best way to avoid this problem, Chris ?

I used PCL POLYPRIMER HIGH PERFORMANCE HI-FILL POLYESTER PRIMER SURFACER
This is a universal primer and some people do not like that, as they want to stay in a paint system ie all PPG or DuPont

I left this car in primer for years infact it probably is still in primer (I sold the car). When I washed the car it looked like I had just primered it.

I used the PCL POLYPRIMER primer on the bodywork on my Polara followed up with the PCL 2K EPOXY PRIME-N-SEAL before all the blocking. We then used the PCL 2K SEALER right before paint where we used NASON basecoat with a DuPont clear. The NASON clear was noticably yellow on the white. I'm a firm believer that it is all in the prep, then clean clean clean...

The nice thing about the PCL products are price. Again there are some people that would not do this but I am on a budget. So deside what you are willing to spend and how the car will be used.

Again this is my opinion.

 

[1978 NYB]

Thanks Chris!

 

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

Chris, THANK YOU,

Carsten, My plan Changed, it's going from Body to paint ASAP. I'm done screwing around.

Nick

 

[AlleyOop2]

AdamR has a post with a sticky on some Paint Basics>>>>>>>>>>http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/showthread.php?342-paint-basics

Here's some more general info on painting basics, it's kind of a long read, but tons of great info here>>>>>>http://www.autobodystore.com/ms7.shtml

 

['69FuryIIIConvertible]

AdamR has a post with a sticky on some Paint Basics>>>>>>>>>>http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/showthread.php?342-paint-basics

Here's some more general info on painting basics, it's kind of a long read, but tons of great info here>>>>>>http://www.autobodystore.com/ms7.shtml

Thank you, Any information is a help!

 

[tbm3fan]

I have always used epoxy primer on my bare metal. Plastic filler can be under or on top of it but I put it under. Don't use self-etch just because there are issues with plastic filler. Next I would use something like a Shopline JP 205 high build polyester filler. Block sand that and then I can go to paint with a sealer being optional under the PPG paint. On an upcoming job I have some high build HOK epoxy primer that I am going to try out instead of PPG DPLF Epoxy. The PPG guys I know like the stuff themselves.

 

[Donny]

Good question! Let me take a stab at this, it will cover some of your question though. I media blast the area, then, and usually apply some self-etch (aka Acid Etch) primer to the bare metal. I do this perhaps on 70% of the vehicles/surfaces that are contracted to be painted post blasting. Some areas I just apply Epoxy primer to, and no self etch. I prefer the etch first as it's very light weight, thin and penetrates the metal perhaps a few microns, and allows metal working operations on this primer with little to no degradation of the qualities and adherence to the metal. Epoxy will not withstand welding operations like the etch will. This is why I like etch, then conduct metal work, then, cover it in epoxy before any body fillers are used. But, at this point is when the car heads out of my lane. The other primers I don't mess with, other shops do.