Upper/Lower Ball Joints

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We are replacing the Upper/Lower ball joints along with Tie rod ends etc on our new project(62 Chrysler Newport). Any tips on how to clean up all the old grease/lubricant? Some old stuff seems to be caked on with dirt and I needed to use a chisel other areas still have soft lubricant. Any tips or tricks are appreciated.
 

Newport 66

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Are you pulling the control arms of the car? Good time to replace the bushings and give everything a good once over. Anyone in your area with a soda or bead blaster?
 
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mobileparts

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The Upper & Lower Ball Joints are still available, as we know; hope you got MOOG and nothing inferior....
Not quite so with the Upper & Lower Control Arm Bushings -- and If you need or want them, I have U.S.A. made Bushings for you.......
 
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Greetings, After installing the Upper and Lower Ball joints the manual indicates a 125 FT Torque prior to installing lube. This seems high and once torques the arms don't move unless you put ALOT of pressure. I think I should loosen the bolt. Any thoughts. I do recognize I have not lubed the ball joints yet but it seems way to tight. Thanks for the recommendations....
 

LocuMob

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Did you tighten the bushings to 125lbs? The ball joints yes, bushings no. I don't have my FSM nearby to check the specified amount.
 
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Did you tighten the bushings to 125lbs? The ball joints yes, bushings no. I don't have my FSM nearby to check the specified amount.
So..When you refer to the bushings are you saying the bolt on the end of the ball joint? I tightened the screw in part to specs but I thought the other bolt had specs as well. Thank you for your help.
 

LocuMob

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I'm talking about the control arm bushings. Doesn't sound like that's what you're referring to. New ball joints shouldn't flop around, but you should be able to line things up without a lot of hassle.
 
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Yes, I am referring to the Ball joints. Once the nut is tighten to 125 ftlbs it is difficult to move the hub back and forth for steering. It seems like its just too tight.
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LocuMob

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No the small nut... Sorry I don't know how to draw.
Yeah, the 125 ft/lbs is for the ball joint itself, going into the control arm. Back that smaller nut off a bunch if you cranked it down that hard. I get them tight, and then back it off til the slots line up with the hole in the ball joint stud. Nowhere near 125 ft/lbs.

So yes, back that nut off.
 
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Yeah, the 125 ft/lbs is for the ball joint itself, going into the control arm. Back that smaller nut off a bunch if you cranked it down that hard. I get them tight, and then back it off til the slots line up with the hole in the ball joint stud. Nowhere near 125 ft/lbs.

So yes, back that nut off.
THANK YOU! that confirms what I was thinking. Have a great weekend, you made my weekend great with your input!
 

James Romano

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THANK YOU! that confirms what I was thinking. Have a great weekend, you made my weekend great with your input!
The average torque on those ranging from a Jeep to a 4 door sedan is usually in the 60 ft lbs area. Some are higher some lower. If you unknowingly jacked that up to 125ft lbs, don't just back off the nut, you have to separate, inspect the eyelet to make sure it's not cracked, elongated or damaged... Then start over.

If you don't and just back the nut off, eventually it's going to pop loose to however far away the nut is from the eyelet..then never be at specified torque. If you were at say 90 which is twice your torque at 45...I'd say yeah.. that's not a big deal...but you are almost 100 ft lbs over-torqued...that's a lot.
 
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