uuuuuuh - whatabout Chryslyer C-bodies???

Cold Case Aluminum Radiators

  1. greazerlou

    greazerlou New Member

    Messages:
    17
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2011
    Hello Cold Case!
    just got done reading all the posts/threads on your radiators and im really liking the amount of attention/effort you guys have put in to our little C-body segment... we truly are an overlooked, low volume, highly complex group of cars as compared to some of the other brands out there lol.

    im 100% ready to pull the trigger on one of your radiator kits... as soon as I have some questions answered that is = )

    First, my application: '66 Chrysler Newport with a 440, A/C and an automatic.
    engine specs: 350hp 4bbl / 480 lbs-ft of torque with 10:1 compression

    its intended use is that of a road tripper.... I live in SoCal but I like heading up the coast, out to Vegas, down to San Diego, up to Big Bear etc. when time allows and I wanna be able to just jump in this thing and go without having to worry about anything - so if I find myself hung over & caught in gridlock on a hot Sunday afternoon just outside of Vegas coming home, I wanna make sure that itll be me puking my fluids out on the side of the road and not my beloved Newport = )

    my original shroud is long gone and all i care about is maximum cooling so im looking at purchasing your MOP757AK which is where my questions begin...

    1. just wanna confirm that this is indeed the "correct" setup for my car/intended use??? I figure if a MOP753A will cool Gerald Morris' '66 383 Newport in 102degree Tucson rush-hour traffic, then the increased cooling capacity of the MOP757A should be exactly what im looking for since im running AC and he isn't.

    2. are the mounting hole alignment issues ive been reading about squared away yet? is it gonna drop right in? obviously im not worried about your shroud/fan assy fitting your radiator, but what about the radiator fitting my car? far be it from me to shy away from adding or adjusting a hole either on your radiator flange or my car, but a "direct OEM fit" is one of your selling points so it would be nice to not have to do that.

    3. any issues with the tranny cooler lines lining up with the 757As? I know Gerald Morris had a minor issue with his 22"er, and Saylor (?) had to cut and reflare one of the lines to make his fit - any updates on this?

    in closing, just wanna say thank you for sticking it out with us C-body folks - I could easily lay the scratch down on a high dollar Griffin or some "OE approved" resto unit but the fact is you guys are the ones really puttin' in the work to specifically earn our business and it shows and that's what counts in my book.

    anywho, hope to hear back soon!

    and btw, lets not forget to PM me that special FCBO member discount code ive been hearing about!!! = )
     
  2. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

    Messages:
    3,415
    Likes Received:
    730
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2011
    When I read the thread on Gerald's '66 Newport radiator, I considered the upgrade to the ColdCase unit, until I looked a the price in Summit and then looked at alternatives to it.

    From somebody who grew up with our '66 Newport 383 (factory a/c car), I can say that as long as the factory (factory a/c) cooling system is clean and working, there usually were no issues with keeping the engine cool. That was a known trait of th.ose Chryslers, back then, from what I was told (and experienced later on).

    One year, not wanting an allegedly troublesome OEM-spec fan clutch again, I opted for a Flex-A-Lite stainless steel flex fan. It worked great. After driving it ah hour or so from where I worked (at that time) in Northern Dallas in July in TX, I could park the car, raise the hood, and remove the air cleaner without having it be "hot to the touch". I was impressed. But, alas, it sounded like a jet plane ready for take-off from the fan noise at 65mph. So I took the over-achieving fles fan off and got an OEM-spec fan clutch. Still worked well, just couldn't do the air cleaner trick.

    On my '70 Monaco 383 (factory a/c car), rather than get the orig radiator re-done, I chose to get a new 3-row Modine for it. Worked well.

    Now, I never did get stuck in freeway gridlock, which is more common now than 40 years ago, in this area. But, in your case, a 3-core 26" radiator should work well. As you have no fan shroud, then I'd suggest you invest money in an electric 2-fan-in-shroud system. Add in a new OEM-spec radiator, too, if desired. Or anything else that might fit the hole, that you desire to pay for. Then make sure the yoke seal at the front of the hood is in place and functioning.

    One of the newer composite construction radiators might be an option, if one can fit the car. Prices are generally less expensive than the all-aluminum units.

    Several options. Shop wisely. I know that TX is a little cooler than AZ, so perhaps the AZ or NV heat is enough extra to raise issues I haven't seen in the DFW area? I'll respect the other poster's experiences and fixes.

    Just some thoughts,
    CBODY67
     
  3. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

    Messages:
    11,001
    Likes Received:
    5974
    Joined:
    May 21, 2013
    Location:
    Marcellus, NY
    FWIW, Hoffman does make a repop shroud and if I read things correctly, it should be able to bolt to the Cold Case radiator. The fan shroud will make a huge difference in cooling, no matter what radiator you decide to use.
    Fan Shroud 66-70 C Body 26" - 2785479

    On a friend's recommendation, I started using a Hayden "Severe duty" fan clutch. That made a difference with my car over a stock Auto Zone replacement. Hayden 2797 Hayden - Fan Clutches and Fan Blades As he told me "It'll blow your hat off"
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2019
    • Thanks! Thanks! x 1
  4. swisherred

    swisherred Active Member

    Messages:
    425
    Likes Received:
    173
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2016
    Location:
    winston salem, nc
    I have a few questions. What is the yoke seal? What is it for? And why does a fan shroud make a difference? Its not just for physical body protection?

     
  5. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

    Messages:
    11,001
    Likes Received:
    5974
    Joined:
    May 21, 2013
    Location:
    Marcellus, NY
    The "yoke seal" is the rubber seal mounted to the hood that seals the gap between the radiator support (sometimes called "yoke") and the hood. Along with the other rubber seals/aprons in the nose, it makes sure the air coming through the grille goes through the radiator.

    The shroud also makes sure that the air is pulled through the radiator by the fan.

    All of this is very important, yet often overlooked, in keeping engine temperatures down. Often, the approach is to blame the radiator rather than be sure that the pieces are in place.
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Thanks! Thanks! x 1
  6. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

    Messages:
    3,415
    Likes Received:
    730
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2011
    The air goes through the grille, not around the radiator but through it, pulled by the venturi effect of the shroud and a properly-placed within the shroud engine-driven fan. Aided by vehicular movement forward.

    In '72, there was a recall of sorts to add some rubber sheeting to keep the air going through the radiator first came through the grille. There were die-cut sheet which went on the inside edge of the headlight mounting structure, then more which went into the valence panel area.

    Seems that in some hot climates, with a tail wind and a slow-moving or parked vehicle, the air going through the radiator would exit to below the car, and then be sent to in front of the bottom of the radiator to be "recycled" through the a/c condenser and radiator. End result, a/c head pressures escalated and the hoses blew up.

    One other part of this recall was a different engine thermostat housing to include the addition of a "TIC Valve". Thermostatic Ignition Control Valve, a thermo-vacuum switch that would put full manifold vacuum to the distributor vacuum advance above a certain coolant temp, to speed up the engine for more fan speed and better cooling performance. This was done on our '72 Newport Royal 400 2bbl.

    Chrysler seemed to be one of the FEW OEMs which seemed to be concerned about air going through the radiator rather than around it. GM's usually had their radiators in very open orientations with large gaps around the radiator and between the hood and core support/yoke structure, by comparison.

    Enjoy!
    CBODY67
     
  7. carrman

    carrman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    668
    Likes Received:
    319
    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2011
    Location:
    Medford, OR

    The 2797 clutch will NOT clear the Cold Case MOP757A radiator. I had to go to a standard clutch.
     
    • Thanks! Thanks! x 1
  8. CBODY67

    CBODY67 Senior Member

    Messages:
    3,415
    Likes Received:
    730
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2011
    Is this due to the CC radiator being thicker than the OEM unit? More "fins" on the 2797 clutch's face area? Or does the 2797 clutch have a longer shaft length than the OEM clutch?

    Just curious,
    CBODY67
     
  9. carrman

    carrman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    668
    Likes Received:
    319
    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2011
    Location:
    Medford, OR
    Thicker fan clutch and thicker radiator core.
     
    • Thanks! Thanks! x 1
  10. Ccas

    Ccas Member FCBO Vendor

    Messages:
    67
    Likes Received:
    24
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2017
    Location:
    Hatfield, PA
    Thanks for reaching out! I'll answer your questions below;
    1. MOP757A is the biggest, highest volume stock fitting aluminum radiator you can possibly put in there. So if that radiator doesn't cool your car properly, you have another problem! ;) However I would also ask you to consider the advice of other contributors above by keeping a mechanical fan and adding a reproduction fan shroud. Your situation does not require an electric fan kit. We have always maintained that a good OEM shroud, fan and clutch combination is as good as our dual electric fan kit from a standpoint of air flow. So it becomes a personal decision
    2. For fitment issues mentioned, I believe our original member had an issue with his rad support that caused a slight hole elongation. We're quite confident that the radiator will bolt right up to your support and we spent a lot of time making sure the factory shroud fits without mods as well.
    3. The trans cooler issue Saylor had is because our radiator is thicker than the original. Normally you can just rebend the S in the line to take out the little bit of extra distance. However, it's something we can't 'fix' because we'd have to make the radiator thinner which would defeat the purpose of the extra cooling capacity.

    As one of the members mentioned, you could recore your original and add the OEM style shroud and you may be just fine but if you want to build in an extra safety factor without spending any extra cash, then our rad is the way to go. Our feeling is that it certainly can't hurt to have the extra cooling capacity 'just in case'.

    Ill send you a PM with a Forum member price.

    Thanks again

    Chris
     
    • Thanks! Thanks! x 1
  11. Big_John

    Big_John Illegitimi non carborundum FCBO Gold Member

    Messages:
    11,001
    Likes Received:
    5974
    Joined:
    May 21, 2013
    Location:
    Marcellus, NY
    That's interesting. The severe duty does have some large fins sticking out, but it cleared the Spectra replacement radiator in my car. I wonder if the heavy duty version might fit with the MOP757A
     
  12. greazerlou

    greazerlou New Member

    Messages:
    17
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2011
    PM replied Chris, thanks!

    I guess I may as well do an install thread on here or maybe a youtube video on it since theres already a couple of pretty good threads on here. cant wait to get my stuff in!!!!!
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2019
    • Like Like x 1
  13. greazerlou

    greazerlou New Member

    Messages:
    17
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2011
    ok... order placed, we'll see where we go from here... super excited!!!!!
     
  14. ceebuddy

    ceebuddy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    521
    Likes Received:
    238
    Joined:
    May 13, 2014
    Location:
    Frankfurt, Germany
    Like you wrote, I once read that the yoke seal and lower air shield were never intended to "scoop" air and funnel it into the radiator as the fan would take care of that anyway. Instead, these parts were always designed to prevent hot air exiting the radiator to return to the front of the radiator and be sucked in again, which would lead to the described recirculation which would minimize actual cooling.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1