Valley Pan Gasket - RB engine

ideologist

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Does anyone have a good recommended gasket? The felpro seems to have wildly mixed reviews. I'm replacing my intake and don't mind dressing it up a little with a top-quality gasket

Any other pointers for a tune-up while I'm monkeying around in there would be appreciated
 
The basic valley pan gasket is stamped steel. No matter the brand. Will need to be specific to the 413/426Wedge/440 (raised block) or the 361/383/400 (low block).

On the 440 6bbl motors, which used an aluminum intake manifold, FelPro has a set of additional paper gaskets to go with the steel gasket. The paper goes between the steel gasket and the aluminum intake, to prevent wear between the aluminum and steel, during the hot/cold engine temp cycles. They can also be used on the cast iron intakes, too, if desired.

For an extra bit of sealing, you might get some black high-heat silicone sealer and put it into the recesses/beading of the steel gasket. Smooth it out with a gasket scraper. Let cure over night, at least. When you put the intake valley pan gasket on, then torque the manifold down, that bit of silicone will press against the cyl head, when the intake manifold is torqued down, for a better seal. Not necessary, but can be done anyway.

If the insulator "bag" is still useable, you might install it back under the center of the intake manifold from where it originally came from.

DO torque the intake manifold bolts in sequence, in "steps" of torque. Start with snug, then progress from there in two different torque levels until the stated torque value is reached. After a few hot/cold cycles, re-check for good measure.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
The basic valley pan gasket is stamped steel. No matter the brand. Will need to be specific to the 413/426Wedge/440 (raised block) or the 361/383/400 (low block).

On the 440 6bbl motors, which used an aluminum intake manifold, FelPro has a set of additional paper gaskets to go with the steel gasket. The paper goes between the steel gasket and the aluminum intake, to prevent wear between the aluminum and steel, during the hot/cold engine temp cycles. They can also be used on the cast iron intakes, too, if desired.

For an extra bit of sealing, you might get some black high-heat silicone sealer and put it into the recesses/beading of the steel gasket. Smooth it out with a gasket scraper. Let cure over night, at least. When you put the intake valley pan gasket on, then torque the manifold down, that bit of silicone will press against the cyl head, when the intake manifold is torqued down, for a better seal. Not necessary, but can be done anyway.

If the insulator "bag" is still useable, you might install it back under the center of the intake manifold from where it originally came from.

DO torque the intake manifold bolts in sequence, in "steps" of torque. Start with snug, then progress from there in two different torque levels until the stated torque value is reached. After a few hot/cold cycles, re-check for good measure.

Enjoy!
CBODY67


Thanks man, I found an engine build video that covered the whole sequence. He recommended not using the paper gaskets and a little sealer on each face. I'll check my clearances and make the best fitting install. (I am installing an aluminum intake)

My concern on the Fel-Pro gaskets was the wildly varying reviews of fit and finish quality. I can't find a good Mopar part anywhere, I would just buy this if available.
 
Forgot to add, I do use the black rtv around the ports and in the corners where everything meets up.
 
I use high tak/aviation gasket sealant around the ports, black ultra rtv on the end plates and where head meets the block transition. Also use pipe thread sealant on the bolts because they are through to the oil and can pull a vacuum and oil leak after some cycles.
 
A Chrysler-sourced valley pan gasket should be available though any Chrysler dealership in the Mopar Performance catalog, I suspect. Not to forget about Mancini Racing and Summit Racing.

Years ago, I bought a "Engine Teardown Gasket Kit" from Mopar Perf. The description was like it would be used for a post-winning race teardown, at the track. Was about $100.00 back then, as I recall. What was in the box was EVERY gasket/seal that went into building a B or RB motor. I was totally surprised, especially when I looked inside of the box . . . for the price. Not sure what it might sell for now. Something to consider . . . .

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
A Chrysler-sourced valley pan gasket should be available though any Chrysler dealership in the Mopar Performance catalog, I suspect. Not to forget about Mancini Racing and Summit Racing.

Years ago, I bought a "Engine Teardown Gasket Kit" from Mopar Perf. The description was like it would be used for a post-winning race teardown, at the track. Was about $100.00 back then, as I recall. What was in the box was EVERY gasket/seal that went into building a B or RB motor. I was totally surprised, especially when I looked inside of the box . . . for the price. Not sure what it might sell for now. Something to consider . . . .

Enjoy!
CBODY67


Summit has it for $153 - thanks for the tip!

P3690175
 
One thing you need to keep in mind. Is your intake using the cross over passages to pre heat your carburetor with exhaust gasses in those passages. Feo-Pro #1215 has those passages blocked off, but that's the valley pan gasket to use if you're running the cross ram intakes. Exhaust gasses eat the aluminum right where the balance plates are located between the rams. Ask me how I know this, lol. Jer
 
Does anyone have a good recommended gasket? The felpro seems to have wildly mixed reviews. I'm replacing my intake and don't mind dressing it up a little with a top-quality gasket

Any other pointers for a tune-up while I'm monkeying around in there would be appreciated

I’ve had success with the fel pro stamped pan gasket. I installed without the paper gaskets, some hi-tak around the ports, and ultra gray rtv on the ends under the hold downs. Also, you can always paint it to make it look nice
 
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