Weird turn signal behavior

Scoopy G

Scoopy G

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Greeting from sunny Tampa. I had the Newport out on the road today, and the turns signals are acting up. Here's what happened:

The right signals are functioning properly, the dash display is working, and front right and rear right bulbs are lighting and flashing.

The left side was dead: no dash display, no flashing. When I got home, is found that the left rear light was just staying on, no flashing. But the bulb checked out fine. So, I replaced the signal flasher, and that restored the flashing of the left rear. But no lights at the front, fender, or dash when the left signal is applied. All bulbs were removed and bench tested, and proved good. Kind of a strange set of issues. Any ideas?
 
Each corner of the car usually has a ground wire for the lights' wiring harness. "No flash" or "glow" usually indicates an open in that particular circuit, somewhere. Usually, it's a burned-out bulb somewhere on the particular side of the car, somewhere in the particular harness.

Might need to download an electrical schmatic at www.mymopar.com for further diagnosis?

How long since everything worked correctly?

Just some recollections,
CBODY67
 
Thanks CBODY67. I was looking at the ground for the Left front turn light, which it shares a ground with the little fender-mounted indicator. It looked OK. I actually took it loose a month ago as I put that relay kit for the head lights in. So I'd assume a good ground up front, as I cleaned up the connections to make sure the headlight kit had a good ground. Headlight relay kit is working just fine. But I'll check that ground again. Still it's curious why the left signal indicator on the dash doesn't work.
 
OH, and about 3 weeks ago, I was in the dash and replaced most of the bulbs with LED bulbs. The dash lights work well, and as mentioned, the RH turns signal bulbs work just fine.
 
The front and rear signals are parallel but separate circuits. The front circuit runs the dash indicators and front signal lights. The rear circuit handles the brake lights and rear signals. My bet is there is a disconnect at the turn signal switch.
 
Thanks BADVERT65.

The turn signal stem/switch on this car was wonky when I bought it. The car came with 2 used spares, so I suspect the previous owner tried to fix a bad switch, but didn't have the patience to do it. (This same owner, maybe 40 years old, was in the weeds when the ammeter failed, and he had no juice at the key. He replaced the coil, battery, voltage regulator, and alternator, but of course could not solve the problem. This is where I came in, and bought the car for $1250, hoping I could solve the electrical issue. I registered on this forum, and CBARGE put me wise to the issue, and in no time flat the old 383 was running fine. I always wondered why a guy his age didn't use the internet to research the problem, it seems they're never off their phones!)

But with all the stuff I had to fix on the car, I just used the turn signal switch as it was....push right and hold then release, push left and hold then release. No "catch and cancel" to it. I knew it needed a new switch, and that's about the last thing that the old gal needs. I did the switch on my '63 Riviera, and man-o-man is that a job.

SO, assuming that my TS switch is bad (it may be OK, just mis-installed), where can I obtain a new switch? Thanks again.
 
On my '68 Newport, I had wonky turn signals and dash turn indicators coming on with the parking lights. Turned out the turn lamp bulb sockets were coming loose in their holders and ground was being lost there. Both the front and rear lamps were doing this. The front lamp assemblies the sockets were pressed into place and after 50 years vibration, they loosened up.
 
Hello again fellas, here are more clues in my quest for turn signals....

I could not get the front signals to blink, and also the indicators in the dashboard. A new flasher unit restored the rear turn signals, but still no fronts or dash. THEN, I just happened to flip on the emergency flashers, and voila! all lights flash as they should.

SO, this tells me all bulbs are good, all grounds are good. There is just no positive juice going to the front bulbs, including the dash indicators. Bad turn signal switch? Where can I get a replacement, and how the hell can you swap it out?

Holly Jolly,
Rich in Tampa
 
On some of the older systems, the emergency flasher circuit can over-ride the normal circuit, somehow, it seems to me. Not sure how that could happen, either. If they bypass something, possibly, so they will alway work?

Did you CHECK the wiring schematic to see what wires go where and from where?

If it's a standard column (i.e., non-tilt/telescope), then the first item is to get the horn buttom/cap removed from the steering wheel. Then progress to get to "the nut" (not the driver "nut") that holds the steering onto the steering column shaft . . . progressing until you can remove the steering wheel to reveal the horn contact mechanism that fits into the turn signal switch itself. Better get the FSM downloaded! Maybe even the particular Chrysler Parts book for the exploded view!

If it's a Tilt-A-Scope column, I believe it's a whole different deal.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Richard Reau said:
Hello again fellas, here are more clues in my quest for turn signals....

I could not get the front signals to blink, and also the indicators in the dashboard. A new flasher unit restored the rear turn signals, but still no fronts or dash. THEN, I just happened to flip on the emergency flashers, and voila! all lights flash as they should.

SO, this tells me all bulbs are good, all grounds are good. There is just no positive juice going to the front bulbs, including the dash indicators. Bad turn signal switch? Where can I get a replacement, and how the hell can you swap it out?

Holly Jolly,
Rich in Tampa
Click to expand...
With a test light,at the plug for the TS switch at the base of the column,check for power going in (we know power is going to the rear) and power coming out going to the front lamps. No power? bad TS switch..Time to pull steering wheel.
I hope you have accesss to wiring diagrams for you car,follow them as you diagnose.
IIRC,I am assuming you do not have a tilt column.

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks barge. I have the steering wheel off as e speak. I'm pretty sure the TS switch is bad, and the plastic plate it mounts to is worn where the TS cam touches it. Someone has been in there before. SO, what now? Where can I get the two pieces?
 
It does sound like the classic TS switch failure. You have to figure out what your car needs depending on options. You also need to look at the service manual to see how to do the job. Basically you have to disconnect each wire at the quick connector & then fish through the column, making sure you attach a string or wire to the wires so that you can pull the new wires through. If your back is good & you're agile you can do it without removing the front seat. Here are your switch options, most likely 2880829.
TS switch.jpg
 
You never did mention if you had tilt-telescopic wheel.

If you are non tilt-tele you've got it made as replacements are plentiful.

Tilt-tele, there's only one option.
 
No tilt or telescopic. I saw one on amazon for about $65. But the bigger plastic piece that the TS switch screws to is worn too. Where can buy one of those?
 
Is the body of the switch white or red/pink?
Different switches for different columns.
Non tilt columns were either Saginaw or Chrysler.
 
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