FCBO Administrator
Administrator
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2013
- Messages
- 3,045
- Reaction score
- 188
Join me in welcoming @furiousbabe to FCBO.
Welcome, furiousbabe
- Thread starter FCBO Administrator
- Start date
furiousbabe
New Member
Thanks! Can anyone help me find a fuel filler tube for my 67 Plymouth Fury 3?
fury fan
Senior Member
@furiousbabe (@ayilar)
C-bodies are all similar yet so many subtle differences, based on where the fuel filler is.
65 Fury tank and filler tubes are 1 year only, and Fury only, because it fills thru the driverside quarterpanel and thru the rear framerail. The only C-body to do this.
Some fill behind the license plate, some fill behind a door between the taillights.
And station wagons are completely different between tanks and filler tubes.
I've never parted out a 67/68 Fury, but I checked the tubes I have vs my car 68 Fury. I don't think I have one for you.
Here are 2 pics from my 68 Fury, showing the curvature downward into the tank, and the mtg bracket that points to the rear of the car.
Bottom pic is what I have, 2 of them are marked.
I gave you a whole bunch of info, to help steer you toward what parts are NOT correct. Don't let somebody say 'they're all the same'. (that goes for fuel tanks too)
Murray Park in OH would be a knowledgeable source if you can't find one via a want-ad on here. I presume that anything I know, he knows too.
C-bodies are all similar yet so many subtle differences, based on where the fuel filler is.
65 Fury tank and filler tubes are 1 year only, and Fury only, because it fills thru the driverside quarterpanel and thru the rear framerail. The only C-body to do this.
Some fill behind the license plate, some fill behind a door between the taillights.
And station wagons are completely different between tanks and filler tubes.
I've never parted out a 67/68 Fury, but I checked the tubes I have vs my car 68 Fury. I don't think I have one for you.
Here are 2 pics from my 68 Fury, showing the curvature downward into the tank, and the mtg bracket that points to the rear of the car.
Bottom pic is what I have, 2 of them are marked.
I gave you a whole bunch of info, to help steer you toward what parts are NOT correct. Don't let somebody say 'they're all the same'. (that goes for fuel tanks too)
Murray Park in OH would be a knowledgeable source if you can't find one via a want-ad on here. I presume that anything I know, he knows too.
furiousbabe
New Member
Thanks so much! Mine fills behind the license plate. I'm unable to fully fill the tank because the neck is cracked somewhere, and my gas gauge doesn't really work, so I just end up putting max $30 in at a time.
fury fan
Senior Member
In that case, Pittsburgh should have a welding shop that can TIG-weld a crack?
New sending units are available for ~$75, but reportedly they aren't always accurate. Some resistors wired in series to the fuel gauge can sometimes correct that, but it's a trial/error iterative process.
Always test a new sender before you install it, so you can see how the gauge reacts to it, as you can manipulate the sender between empty/fuel easily. Use as much of the vehicle wiring as possible to not introduce error. And hte sender must have a good ground or the gauge won't give a reading at all.
But during that, be aware that if the sender's float/arm travel doesn't match the capacity limits of the tank, that's another error. Esp if the float hits the bottom of the tank before it hits the bottom of its travel. It will show some fuel level, but the tank is truly empty.
New sending units are available for ~$75, but reportedly they aren't always accurate. Some resistors wired in series to the fuel gauge can sometimes correct that, but it's a trial/error iterative process.
Always test a new sender before you install it, so you can see how the gauge reacts to it, as you can manipulate the sender between empty/fuel easily. Use as much of the vehicle wiring as possible to not introduce error. And hte sender must have a good ground or the gauge won't give a reading at all.
But during that, be aware that if the sender's float/arm travel doesn't match the capacity limits of the tank, that's another error. Esp if the float hits the bottom of the tank before it hits the bottom of its travel. It will show some fuel level, but the tank is truly empty.
furiousbabe
New Member
I found a guy in Ohio who had the filler neck and a couple other parts I needed! Thanks again!
furiousbabe
New Member
It was Murray Parts, actually!
UGW
Member
Looks like you found your solution, but Van's Auto has a lot of repro Mopar tanks.
Might be a good idea to replace the rubber gasket from the neck into the tank at the same time if it's old too.. I ended up having to do mine with a full tank. It spilled enough that I don't recall much from that afternoon but it was fun at the time 
furiousbabe
New Member
Yikes! I ordered one of those, too. Should be good to go!Might be a good idea to replace the rubber gasket from the neck into the tank at the same time if it's old too.. I ended up having to do mine with a full tank. It spilled enough that I don't recall much from that afternoon but it was fun at the time
UGW
Member
I'd also recommend getting the proper tool for the tank lock ring. It makes the job much easier. The nice thing about 60s Mopars is that they're the same as old Fords, and the Ford tool is usually cheaper and easier to find even though it's the same tool.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-clas...g-unit-lock-ring-removal-tool-metal/p/HW1095/
https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-clas...g-unit-lock-ring-removal-tool-metal/p/HW1095/
kowalski1970
Senior Member
Welcome from Virginia!!
Similar threads
