What carb do I have?

JGC403

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What carb is on my 1965 Chrysler New Yorker 413? Need to get a rebuild kit for it, the secondaries are sticking.
 
Likely a Carter AFB, but your picture is a bit faded, so no one can be sure.

You can use some CRC or the like on the throttle shafts, from the outside and through the rear venturies at the pivot points. I had some stick on me during a car cruise and transmission fluid actually worked pretty well. It was the only thing I had, but it is highly detergent and works well for sticking due to varnish.
 
I was going to rebuild it. The carb is original and it has had stale gas in it for about a year now.
 
One year should not cause any issues. I had a 69 GTX that sat for 20+ years with a Carter AVS and I took it apart cleaned it up and the only piece that I replaced was the accellerator pump. As far as the engine, I pulled the rockers, freed up the valves, pulled the plugs and poured some ATF through the engine as it turned, put new plugs in and it ran really well.

As far as What carb you have I still have to say a Carter AFB, because if you had an old 4160 Holley you would have said.. "What carb is this, it's leaking gas everywhere".

If you have never messed with carbs before I would suggest that you find someone that has a reputation for being honest and doing mechanical work with positive results to do it for you. As far as what carburetor, you will be able to read Carter/Holley etc, right on the thing somewhere. If you want to buy the kit you will need to get numbers from the carb itself or an aluminum tag on the carb.
 
As far as What carb you have I still have to say a Carter AFB, because if you had an old 4160 Holley you would have said.. "What carb is this, it's leaking gas everywhere".

That's funny and very true.
I show that it would have in fact come from the factory with an AFB on it.

If you have never messed with carbs before I would suggest that you find someone that has a reputation for being honest and doing mechanical work with positive results to do it for you. As far as what carburetor, you will be able to read Carter/Holley etc, right on the thing somewhere. If you want to buy the kit you will need to get numbers from the carb itself or an aluminum tag on the carb.[/QUOTE]

Always a good suggestion.
 
No I was born into the fuel injection era. Never messed with a carb. Whats the fun in that, got to learn sometime. Shouldn't be to difficult, take pictures as I take it apart.

The car is at my grandparents house I wanted to get everything I needed before I went up there to work on it.
 
My 65 has a Carter AFB. The 3858s to be exact. Below the front left stud on the base of the carb will be a card number. On the back side of the card it will say Carter AFB on the drivers side.

Hope this helps.
 
I'll offer some semi-information since my 65 Newport 383 had a 2 bbl Stromberg WWC (TBI since 1996). You might find more carb info in www.forabodiesonly.com.

My understanding is that the Carter AFB is very similar in looks and internals to the very common Edelbrock after-market 4 bbl. I think it uses the same metering rod design for the main jets. It is fairly simple inside and everyone says simple to rebuild. As far as the exact PN, usually the numbers stamped at the top (air horn) are the model no., at least w/ Holley's. The numbers cast into housings are just housing PN's. However, Rochester usually stamped the model no. on the side. I recall that the early Carter AFB is a smaller bolt pattern than later "square bore" 4 bbl carbs, so you might need an adapter plate to use a later carb.

I don't think a rebuild would address the sticking secondaries any more than you can do with the carb on the vehicle. It is usually due to a small ridge of carbon where the blades seat or friction in the pivot shaft. I agree that sitting for one year shouldn't be a problem. The gas probably evaporated and left little residue. More important is to drain the gas tank and put new gas in. Save the drained gas for cleaning parts.

If you ever want to upgrade, it is easy to change the intake manifold on a 413 since no water passages. Many people change to an aluminum Edelbrock or Offenhauser, which allows simpler carb and EFI options, plus saves a lot of weight. Ditto for the water pump and housing.
 
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