What did you do to your C-body today....

Another unseasonably warm day today of about 4*C...should be daytime highs of about -5*C. Nothing really C-body related other then I got woke up early because the drywall delivery truck got stuck on my driveway and I had to go out and free him up with my old 1845C Case skid steer, so had to walk past the wagon on the way. ;)

Once I got him free from the snow bank on the side of the driveway I then had to tow him back down towards the house, then I had to tow his 10ton flat deck up the driveway to the road. Thank goodness I cut down and modified old commercial truck chains for my Case or else I would never have got him free. :)
 
Had some 3 and 1/2 inch dumps put on my car so every time we go to the strip I don't have to wrestle the exhaust system off.
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Finally got the front windlace installed on the 300. Also installed the re-chromed inside windshield trim. Tomorrow onto the rear windlace. Hopefully that will go well too.
Then onto the taillights.....
 
I started the wagon and moved it to the middle of the garage to check a few things in preparation for taking it to breakfast tomorrow. Did my checks and went to start it - totally dead! No clicks, headlights don't work, nothing. I went to the battery cables first and found a loose ground cable that wouldn't tighten anymore, bought a new cable assuming that was it - wrong! Checked battery voltage which was 12.7, charging it now to see if that does anything. The battery is less than a year old, I'll take it to Autozone for testing tomorrow - the few other times this happened on other cars it turned out to be an internal battery short. I'm just thanking my lucky stars this happened in my garage and not on the road. Anyone have the same problem?
 
I started the wagon and moved it to the middle of the garage to check a few things in preparation for taking it to breakfast tomorrow. Did my checks and went to start it - totally dead! No clicks, headlights don't work, nothing. I went to the battery cables first and found a loose ground cable that wouldn't tighten anymore, bought a new cable assuming that was it - wrong! Checked battery voltage which was 12.7, charging it now to see if that does anything. The battery is less than a year old, I'll take it to Autozone for testing tomorrow - the few other times this happened on other cars it turned out to be an internal battery short. I'm just thanking my lucky stars this happened in my garage and not on the road. Anyone have the same problem?

Give the bulkhead connector a shake. Most electrical gremlins are located there.

Kevin
 
I started the wagon and moved it to the middle of the garage to check a few things in preparation for taking it to breakfast tomorrow. Did my checks and went to start it - totally dead! No clicks, headlights don't work, nothing. I went to the battery cables first and found a loose ground cable that wouldn't tighten anymore, bought a new cable assuming that was it - wrong! Checked battery voltage which was 12.7, charging it now to see if that does anything. The battery is less than a year old, I'll take it to Autozone for testing tomorrow - the few other times this happened on other cars it turned out to be an internal battery short. I'm just thanking my lucky stars this happened in my garage and not on the road. Anyone have the same problem?
My 2014 pickup battery did that last fall. Showed voltage but no power. Would put a charger on it and it would show charged. I could jump it and it would run. If I had it off for a few minutes it would still start. After a couple of hours wouldn’t crank again. Put a booster pack on it or jump it. If it starts its probably not your bulkhead or starter connection and is your battery. If it still doesn’t have start move down the line testing power through your fuesable link and bulk head.
 
I started the wagon and moved it to the middle of the garage to check a few things in preparation for taking it to breakfast tomorrow. Did my checks and went to start it - totally dead! No clicks, headlights don't work, nothing. I went to the battery cables first and found a loose ground cable that wouldn't tighten anymore, bought a new cable assuming that was it - wrong! Checked battery voltage which was 12.7, charging it now to see if that does anything. The battery is less than a year old, I'll take it to Autozone for testing tomorrow - the few other times this happened on other cars it turned out to be an internal battery short. I'm just thanking my lucky stars this happened in my garage and not on the road. Anyone have the same problem?

Had the same type of symptoms a few years back on a riding mower, showed plenty of voltage. Turned out it was a bad battery.
 
Had the same type of symptoms a few years back on a riding mower, showed plenty of voltage. Turned out it was a bad battery.
I have seen similar issues occur in estop switches, switches, contactors, etc. Not enough conductor to carry current but voltage (potential) will read good on a meter.
 
Had the same type of symptoms a few years back on a riding mower, showed plenty of voltage. Turned out it was a bad battery.

Pretty easy to test that. Turn on the lights and if there is still 12.8v at the battery, it ain't the battery.

My 65 and 66 have both done that and both times it was the bulkhead connector.

Kevin
 
Drove the Fury today about 50 miles. Dave Lux was nice enough to walk me through setting the height. FSM only has a grainy photo. So, handling better than ever with new suspension components.
 
Thanks for the replies on my no power problem. Let me mention again that this is not just a starting issue, the car is completely dead - no start, no headlights, no power windows, nothing. Here's where I'm at now:
  • I took the charged battery to Autozone, it checked out fine - 12.87 volts.
  • Battery back in, all terminals cleaned and tight. Pulled the headlight switch and wiggled everything, solenoid switch wires, bulkhead connector, etc. no change.
  • Removed all wires from solenoid switch, cleaned and tightened all connections. With battery connected I get 12.87 volts at the large terminal - no change.
  • I tried jumping the large and small terminals at the switch, nothing.
Using the FSM wiring diagram I identified the two fusible links coming off the solenoid switch, I wiggled and inspected them and there is no visible damage. If they blow, how does that work? Can you actually tell by looking at them? I had to quit working on it today , sure need to move this garage ornament...
 
Thanks for the replies on my no power problem. Let me mention again that this is not just a starting issue, the car is completely dead - no start, no headlights, no power windows, nothing. Here's where I'm at now:
  • I took the charged battery to Autozone, it checked out fine - 12.87 volts.
  • Battery back in, all terminals cleaned and tight. Pulled the headlight switch and wiggled everything, solenoid switch wires, bulkhead connector, etc. no change.
  • Removed all wires from solenoid switch, cleaned and tightened all connections. With battery connected I get 12.87 volts at the large terminal - no change.
  • I tried jumping the large and small terminals at the switch, nothing.
Using the FSM wiring diagram I identified the two fusible links coming off the solenoid switch, I wiggled and inspected them and there is no visible damage. If they blow, how does that work? Can you actually tell by looking at them? I had to quit working on it today , sure need to move this garage ornament...

Trace circuit with a 12 volt tracing probe. Harbor Freight has them.

Or, use a meter. You can ohm out fusible links if you want, just not with an analog meter.

I think @twostick is giving you the best advice.
 
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