swisherred
Senior Member
Im considering por15, rust bullet, and chassis saver for painting my frame, suspension parts and underbelly....this may or may not be sandblasted as I may not be able to blast the bottom of the car....What would work best?
What do you use for chassis paint?
- Thread starter swisherred
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rexus31
Senior Member
I’ve only used Eastwood Chassis Black.
swisherred
Senior Member
Did you have good results from it?
The original paint, whether GM, Ford, or Chrysler, never was a glossy black paint. It was a more satiny black, but not satin as such. Certainly not flat black by any means. More like a "High Heat Black" in gloss.
Many have tended toward the more glossy "chassis black", as it is perceived to look better and "show better" at a car show, but not at a high-level single marque show as the Mopar Nats Concours Show (of similar Mustang or GM marque shows were authenticity is the standard rather than what spectators might perceive looks good). I have not seen the gloss level of the Eastwood product, so I'm not sure how much "gloss" it really has.
The more correct black gloss would be similar to what was on the factory air cleaners and black enging accessory brackets. Not a hard shine by any means. I discovered that GM Glossy Engine Black paint matched the air cleaner paint exactly on my '67 Newport. On the sections of underhood a/c lines which were painted black, I scuffed them a bit and then sprayed some of the GM Engine Black into a small glass bottle, carefully, then used a camel hair brush to apply it to the a/c lines. It looked very good, as I couldn't disassemble things to spray the lines. Good durability, too. BUT, it's the GM engine paint from GMParts, not a Krylon version. THAT is probably why it matched and worked as good as it did.
By observation, when we were doing the Superbird, we found that sometimes you had to play with the various paints and colors a bit for the best match of what was on the vehicle from the factory. In the case of the Superbird, that meant a mix of primers and paints on the underside of the car, for it to be correct. On the similar Daytonas, there were THREE different sets of primer and body paint on the underside of the car, for it to be correctly restored. Some might have considered that "sloppy assembly", which it might have been, but that was the way they were built, which had to be duplicated for the high-level judging at Mopar Nats in the Concours Judging.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
Many have tended toward the more glossy "chassis black", as it is perceived to look better and "show better" at a car show, but not at a high-level single marque show as the Mopar Nats Concours Show (of similar Mustang or GM marque shows were authenticity is the standard rather than what spectators might perceive looks good). I have not seen the gloss level of the Eastwood product, so I'm not sure how much "gloss" it really has.
The more correct black gloss would be similar to what was on the factory air cleaners and black enging accessory brackets. Not a hard shine by any means. I discovered that GM Glossy Engine Black paint matched the air cleaner paint exactly on my '67 Newport. On the sections of underhood a/c lines which were painted black, I scuffed them a bit and then sprayed some of the GM Engine Black into a small glass bottle, carefully, then used a camel hair brush to apply it to the a/c lines. It looked very good, as I couldn't disassemble things to spray the lines. Good durability, too. BUT, it's the GM engine paint from GMParts, not a Krylon version. THAT is probably why it matched and worked as good as it did.
By observation, when we were doing the Superbird, we found that sometimes you had to play with the various paints and colors a bit for the best match of what was on the vehicle from the factory. In the case of the Superbird, that meant a mix of primers and paints on the underside of the car, for it to be correct. On the similar Daytonas, there were THREE different sets of primer and body paint on the underside of the car, for it to be correctly restored. Some might have considered that "sloppy assembly", which it might have been, but that was the way they were built, which had to be duplicated for the high-level judging at Mopar Nats in the Concours Judging.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
rexus31
Senior Member
Yup. Very durable. The only downside was it takes a while to cure.
1/3rd the cost of POR, and made here in my home land of Canuck....
How shiny is the DOM?
Consider using OSPHO followed by Rustoleum.
Paint the OSPHO on with a brush, let it dry overnight, wipe it down with mineral spirits. Prime with Rustoleum "Rusty Metal" primer or "Rust Reformer. Thin the Rustoleum with mineral spirits and spray it on with a cheap Harbor Fright spray gun (I really like their HVLP gun).
Rustoleum is cheap, durable and you can buy it locally. OSPHO might be in a well stocked hardware store, but you can buy it on Amazon. A quart goes a long way.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C02CDG/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Paint the OSPHO on with a brush, let it dry overnight, wipe it down with mineral spirits. Prime with Rustoleum "Rusty Metal" primer or "Rust Reformer. Thin the Rustoleum with mineral spirits and spray it on with a cheap Harbor Fright spray gun (I really like their HVLP gun).
Rustoleum is cheap, durable and you can buy it locally. OSPHO might be in a well stocked hardware store, but you can buy it on Amazon. A quart goes a long way.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C02CDG/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
I know I may get flamed for this but I used Rust Bullet base and then semi-gloss black Tremclad.
It's holding up very well for the past 3 years and 15,000 miles.
no one I've run over has complained it isn't factory...
It's holding up very well for the past 3 years and 15,000 miles.
no one I've run over has complained it isn't factory...
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I believe Trem Clad is the Canadian brand of Rustoleum.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
It may very well be the case
Rustoleum is a great old school paint
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
I remember a proud owner of a brand new Pontiac Parrhsenne paying our shop to allow him to rent a hoist for a couple of days so he could rustoelum the underneath of his new baby
Dries to a Semi-gloss.
Thanks!
tbm3fan
Old Man with a Hat
I use their Extreme Chassis Satin Black on the underside of my F100. After cleaning off the frame, and neutralizing rust with their rust converter, I then used the paint. That was five years ago and other than areas where grease flies off (u-joints) the bottom still looks pristine.
CanCritter
Senior Member
rust bullet for the win
monaco75
Senior Member
Rust bullet with undercoating over it here as well. Happy how it’s held up so far.
swisherred
Senior Member
I ended up going with chassis saver for this. Seriously thought about rust bullet...ruled out por15 due to problems and complaints found in reviews. I think for the amount I will drive it, it will do the job just fine.
Ed Wagner
Member
Just went through this same dilemma with my '57 non-Mopar project. I don't want to get shot at so I won't cite which make it is... lol.
Using PPG CRE-921 two part epoxy primer. It loves bare metal but does great on solid, lightly rusted metal too. No crusty flaky stuff! Should be topcoated unless you are using undercoating on top of it. Its the best kept secret PPG has. Your local automotive PPG dealer should be able to get it. Don't be shocked by the $200/ gallon+1/2 gallon of hardener. its worth it.
I've not used it, so no testimony here, but heard many bad reports on POR-15. My cousin restores cars and had likewise not had any luck, even after vigorous physical rust removal. Sometime miracle products are too good to be true. I'd research POR a lot if you choose to use it.
Using PPG CRE-921 two part epoxy primer. It loves bare metal but does great on solid, lightly rusted metal too. No crusty flaky stuff! Should be topcoated unless you are using undercoating on top of it. Its the best kept secret PPG has. Your local automotive PPG dealer should be able to get it. Don't be shocked by the $200/ gallon+1/2 gallon of hardener. its worth it.
I've not used it, so no testimony here, but heard many bad reports on POR-15. My cousin restores cars and had likewise not had any luck, even after vigorous physical rust removal. Sometime miracle products are too good to be true. I'd research POR a lot if you choose to use it.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
I found when I was working on my Polara that POR15 had been used quite incorrectly and portions would peel right off...
Rust Bullet on the other hand seems to handle less prep work fairly well but will scrape off with reasonable ease.
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