What's the best paint for steel rims?

Gerald Morris

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Good Evening Moparians!

I copped a nice set of steel 1971 15x6 rims in town a couple days ago, and while the old chrome(?) plating looks good where it is, the rest of the steel would be better preserved and smoothed with a good paint job. This being so, I wonder if there are special paints for tire rims, or will the normal automotive paints suffice? Who among you Wise Elders has had to paint steel rims? I seek your lore and hope to apply some, then share my results.
 
15X6 with chrome? W23 16-slot road wheels? Silver between the chrome and the center of the wheel would be similar to Chevy Rally Wheel Silver, I believe, which mightr be available in repro as a spray can via Duplicolor or similar. Maybe even some Krylon wheel paint?

Or you might go down to the local paint supply and look in their chip charts for a bright silver you like. Might even have the correct wheel color mentioned in the chip chart list? Then get them to make up a quart (minimum quantity, usually) of single-stage acrylic enamel, and get a PreVal sprayer unit to spray it with and some thinner/reducer.

For the "black", hidden by a trim ring, any satiny-black paint might work.

Of course, clean and basic prep, especially on the silver parts. Using some painters tape to tape off the chrome area, letting the silver blend into the chrome area by leaving a lip of tape hanging over the recess under where the chrome is. No hard paint line on the silver, but a fading of sorts, which is how my '70 W23s are.

Good luck with your project! Others might have their own suggestions.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
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The wheels probably had chrome plating with Argent Silver for the painted accent. The correct Argent Silver is usually available on E-Bay.

Dave
 
15X6 with chrome? W23 16-slot road wheels? Silver between the chrome and the center of the wheel would be similar to Chevy Rally Wheel Silver, I believe, which mightr be available in repro as a spray can via Duplicolor or similar. Maybe even some Krylon wheel paint?

Or you might go down to the local paint supply and look in their chip charts for a bright silver you like. Might even have the correct wheel color mentioned in the chip chart list? Then get them to make up a quart (minimum quantity, usually) of single-stage acrylic enamel, and get a PreVal sprayer unit to spray it with and some thinner/reducer.

For the "black", hidden by a trim ring, any satiny-black paint might work.

Of course, clean and basic prep, especially on the silver parts. Using some painters tape to tape off the chrome area, letting the silver blend into the chrome area by leaving a lip of tape hanging over the recess under where the chrome is. No hard paint line on the silver, but a fading of sorts, which is how my '70 W23s are.

Good luck with your project! Others might have their own suggestions.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

As ALWAYS, I TREASURE YOUR thoughts! I've seen the name of Duplicolor last night and this morning and will put the brand in my Top 3 list for brands for this job.

Yes, they're W23 16 slot rims, identical to those advertised here: For Sale - 15x6 Road Wheels W23 set of 4

I got 5 for $200, which, Given This and That Theez Daze, made the Babushka happy with her investment. Since the 14" P215 75 white walled Hankooks that came with Gertrude still have plenty tread, we're not too badly compelled to use the W23s until they're Done Right! I'll take a few pix later this week, after this winter piss storm moves out.

I know the boys at a local, PRIVATELY OWNED INDEPENDENT AUTOMOTIVE STORE (Cost Less Auto) who can help do me good on getting paint once I decide what to get, OR, I might hunt something down on the Net, once I know what to get.

I was thinking white between the chrome and bead for the outside, with white on the inside and enclosed part, but using silver to effect the transition from chrome on the outside does seem more practical, especially given that some imperfections in the old chrome plate exist.

Oh YES! I WILL tape off and mask the chrome plating thoroughly from preparation until finish, renewing the masking too as needed. If I knew of a reliable shop, I might even consider renewing the chrome, but I suspect no such shop exists in Pima County anymore.

Your felicitous wishes are much appreciated, and may your own projects be blessed too.
 
The wheels probably had chrome plating with Argent Silver for the painted accent. The correct Argent Silver is usually available on E-Bay.

Dave

Argent Silver is the name of that original stuff eh? I WILL look! As always, your words carry much weight in my synapses Dave. Thanks big BIG!
 
Rustoleum has some self-etching primer in spraycans now.

I've seen this brand and product on the shelves the last few years. I used their black engine paint for the rehabilitated PS pump bracket and reservoir I installed after resealing the pump with new O-rings a couple weeks ago. It might be JUST the thing for priming, after I wire-brush off the rust. Fortunately, the rust hasn't penetrated into the steel too deeply, as far as I could tell with a buyer's perusal before clenching the deal. I saw a DIYer advising use of a specialized primer in cases of bad rust as needed, but will have to look again for the name. Thx!
 
Hammerite is some pretty great paint, and I like the look, can be applicable on wheels, puns aside.

Last time I went to replace a can of paint, the counterman said $14.80 and I left without a can mumbling something about going back to paint brushes...

Don't powder coat. I don't personally believe in it. When it fails, it comes off in sheets and until then the substrate rots beneath the coating.

I've had great luck with most Krylon Satin Black when painting Subaru snow wheels, or even factory alloys like on my car, paint going strong for many a season now.


1995 Legacy.png
 
Most of the higher quality over the counter paints will stick if the prep is done well. I just painted a bunch of suspension parts after rebuilding the front end and rear diff. Media blasted some parts and others soaked in heavy degreaser then pressure washed, hit most of the metal with a phosphoric acid based rust remover product made by rustoleum. Gave everything a final wipe down with acetone while wearing gloves to remove any skin oils or residual dust then sprayed with a rustoleum paint/primer in one. Went on great, no fish eyes, bubbles or any adhesion issues and even held up well to some of the tapping I had to do to get things back in place while reassembling. Would work well, easy, and inexpensive for your steel wheels.
 
forgot to add I'd hit them with a layer or two of clear afterwards too, it will give an extra layer of protection for any small road debris, socket scrapes, or any other stuff that may cause light scratches.
 
Don't powder coat. I don't personally believe in it. When it fails, it comes off in sheets and until then the substrate rots beneath the coating.
I don't powder coat anything.

forgot to add I'd hit them with a layer or two of clear afterwards too, it will give an extra layer of protection for any small road debris, socket scrapes, or any other stuff that may cause light scratches.
Yes! THAT much I already planned!

Rest assured, I WILL take plenty trouble to prep them well. Recall the Rule of 7 Ps: Proper Prior Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance.
 
"Prior planning prevents perplexing problems"

Watch for people who say that, because there is a reason...
 
Also keep in mind that the tire-changing machine and technician are going to scrape that powered bead-tool around the rim - so maybe consider somethign that takes a brush-on touchup.

Soaking the front edge with vinegar, where the chrome center meets the rim, will help eliminate some rust.
Hotter vinegar works faster, but it will take some time regardless.
 
Also keep in mind that the tire-changing machine and technician are going to scrape that powered bead-tool around the rim - so maybe consider somethign that takes a brush-on touchup.

Soaking the front edge with vinegar, where the chrome center meets the rim, will help eliminate some rust.
Hotter vinegar works faster, but it will take some time regardless.
most of the bigger tire shops have machines with a hard composite plastic mounting head on them so they dont mar the wheels instead of the old 4050 tire changing machines that were notorious for scraping up wheels
 
Also keep in mind that the tire-changing machine and technician are going to scrape that powered bead-tool around the rim - so maybe consider somethign that takes a brush-on touchup.

Soaking the front edge with vinegar, where the chrome center meets the rim, will help eliminate some rust.
Hotter vinegar works faster, but it will take some time regardless.

Thanx 4 reminding me about the chemistry of vinegar and rust! Yes, a few gallons of glacial acetic acid, heated in a vat, would work nicely on the rust. I also did NOT forget the uses of fine steel wool in polishing chrome plating.

I hate deviating from the factory original rims, but 14" x 5.5" rims simply won't support a tire with enough surface area to adequately cushion the suspension from the bad streets I must drive on down here. 15" x 6" has enough for decent rubber, without worry about things being TOOOO big for the fenders. A nice compromise, esp given that the W23s WERE meant for C body Mopars.
 
"Prior planning prevents perplexing problems"

Watch for people who say that, because there is a reason...

True words! I heard the 7P bromide when a bonded apprentice long ago. It meant usually that I was being sent on some task with a hidden trap in it. Nasty, ugly, nepotistic hazing scumbag petit- bourgeois arselochers those guys were....
 
 

BLESS YOU for making that particular datum available!! I just bookmarked this link after looking around a bit at their offerings. I got some Old Chrysler turquoise for the 915 heads and 4bbl intake this past summer, and am pretty happy w it, but I damn sure will try their Rally Wheel silver for this upcoming job! Yes, I now see merit in sticking with a silver to fade from the chrome plating with, and thank you and All the Wise Moparians who've contributed to this thread.
 
"I heard the 7P bromide when a bonded apprentice long ago."

My wife says it a lot, and then also says things like "Remember, we're - insert maniacally insane activity here - today", "remember" inferring that we had talked about this before and had somehow agreed but typically having zero recollection...

Don't be so quick to write off a surface layer of rust, especially if it comes at the expense of haphazard use of a grinder, possibly making the wheel out of balance?

Instead us the rust to your advantage with this stuff, NAPA Rust Treatment. The spray might be handier for trapped areas, but the brush liquid much better.

Miracle stuff. been using it for decades.

If you want to live, don't use this stuff and then weld on the area. If you do, get a big fan. Learned this the hard way.

Slight veer, but does NE1 here know what happens when you take that same welding torch and use it on something that's been cleaned with Brakleen?

Never weld over brake cleaner. It will kill you! x-post r/welding

https://www.reddit.com › metalworking › comments › ne...



Jan 4, 2017 — Usually some guy will clean a dirty car part with brake cleaner then weld it and some trapped brake cleaner will turn into phosgene.



Back on the rust killer, best thing since sliced bread, don't leave home without it.

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