Whats this for?

carguy300

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Im working on putting the dash back together, one of many projects going on with this 68 300 project! Got all the parts together and ready to reinstall, but this part im not sure what it is or for, speedo was all that was in place, but was removed at one time. Ive got all wiring harnesses and plugs ready, but this was not hooked up and i dont see any wires that go to it. I looked at parts manual that Big John showed me, best i could tell it calls it a limiter? Can y'all help me with this so I can get this dash back together?!?! Correctly!

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carguy300

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It is a voltage regulator for the gauges.
When I removed the cluster, nothing was hooked up to it, I know the previous owner had removed the cluster because the speedo cable and gear indicator linkage was not hooked up. So now not sure how it should be wired in?
 

carguy300

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I noticed on a couple of units ebay also show what looks like a condenser, mine is missing this to.
 

Davea Lux

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I noticed on a couple of units ebay also show what looks like a condenser, mine is missing this to.
The radio equipped cars have a condenser attached for noise reduction. If you car did not have a radio, it would not have come with the condenser. The Cluster voltage regulator is available thru Rock Auto if you intend to replace it. There are also several vendors selling electronic replacements.

Dave
 

carguy300

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The radio equipped cars have a condenser attached for noise reduction. If you car did not have a radio, it would not have come with the condenser. The Cluster voltage regulator is available thru Rock Auto if you intend to replace it. There are also several vendors selling electronic replacements.

Dave
So Dave is this something that is nessessary, like I said when I took out the cluster nothing was hook to it, but dont know if it came that way or other owner removed wire from it or not. When I got the car home the dash was apart and pieces missing. Ive got all bezels, circuit boards and harness ready to put back in , just not now about this limit.
 

carguy300

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Does have thumb roll radio, the pics ive seem show a condenser in the fuel gauge circuit with this limit.
 

1970FuryConv

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So Dave is this something that is nessessary, like I said when I took out the cluster nothing was hook to it, but dont know if it came that way or other owner removed wire from it or not. When I got the car home the dash was apart and pieces missing. Ive got all bezels, circuit boards and harness ready to put back in , just not now about this limit.
The voltage regulator/limiter reduces voltage to 5 volts to prevent damage to the gauges. It is necessary.

At least on 1970 Fury, there is a gray wire from gas gauge at single spade terminal on the voltage limiter. There is a black power input wire at the dual spade on the voltage limiter. The 2nd spade at the dual spade terminal of the voltage limiter is a black wire that runs to radio capacitor. The gray wire goes to a 2-wire connector at the fuel gauge, from there the 2nd wire provides 5-volt power input for the temperature gauge.
 
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carguy300

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The voltage regulator/limiter reduces voltage to 5 volts to prevent damage to the gauges. It is necessary.

At least on 1970 Fury, there is a black power input at the single spade. There is a power output at the dual spade on the voltage limiter that goes to a 2-wire connector at the fuel gauge, from there the 2nd wire provides power input for the temperature gauge. The 2nd spade at the dual spade terminal of the voltage limiter runs to radio capacitor.
That helps a lot, ive ckd out some diagrams and they show about the same thing. I just need to get new parts, Thanks for the help!
 

Davea Lux

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So Dave is this something that is nessessary, like I said when I took out the cluster nothing was hook to it, but dont know if it came that way or other owner removed wire from it or not. When I got the car home the dash was apart and pieces missing. Ive got all bezels, circuit boards and harness ready to put back in , just not now about this limit.
You need the cluster regulator to run power to your gauges, they will be dead otherwise. The condenser you can do without as long as you do not mind some static on the radio. You might also want to download the wiring diagram for your car from www.mymopar.com. It is free.

Dave
 

Gerald Morris

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70bigblockdodge

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At a very minimum of not replacing any circuitry, it pays to re-solder the pins/connectors on any of the printed circuit units, does not really apply to OP, but info for everyone.
 
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At a very minimum of not replacing any circuitry, it pays to re-solder the pins/connectors on any of the printed circuit units, does not really apply to OP, but info for everyone.
Most definitely. The pressed pins on my PCB are so brittle the leafs the machine made to hold the pin to the board have all fractured off. I epoxied them in place and soldered the traces to the pins.

Relying upon a cheap brass fitting to make good electrical contact for 20 Watts of power (dash illumination) is really asking a bit much.

The regulator/condenser picture is excellent- my dash has the condenser because the car has radio specified in the options but I wasn't sure if it was on the feed or regulated side. Thanks.

Phil
 

'66 Fury I

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I repaced mne with the RTE unit. It apparently doed not need the condenser and is "safer". It works well, but does not move the gauges as quickly when the key is switched "on". My guess is that the old thermal unit gave full 12v until it warmed up and brought the gauges up faster, wnereas the electronig unit supplies a steady 5v immediatly. This is not a problem, but when I put $100.00 in the tank, start ehe engine and see less tha half a tank, it is surprising for an instant! Lindsay
 
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