Where so i find cheap socket for upper ball joints on my '65 new yorker?

Lagoo

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Is that all I need to change upper one? Remove castellated nut ,cotter pin,unthread ball joint with 2 9/64" socket replace ? Thank you
 
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Be prepared to spend a lot of time and energy separating the upper ball joint from the spindle. That may take a lot of heat and many a hit to the spindle with a big hammer. Once it was all free I was very surprised at how difficult it was to turn the ball joint to unthread it. It took the longest breaker bar any of my friends owned and a jack handle extension with all of my body pushing or pulling the whole way out.

But, if I did it, anybody can!
 

MetalManiacAZ

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Ebay is your friend. I bought a Sunex socket and used my impact to remove it. Worked like a champ. Mine was the 1 59/64" though for my 66.

 

thrashingcows

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trick I've learned doing ball joints is to have a helper push down on the socket to keep it seated and square on the ball joint, otherwise it tends to twist and slip and eventually round out the sides on the Ball joint. And use a good dose of heat on the threads, and then a quality breaker bar with probably a 4' cheater pipe. I've had ones so stubborn I had to break out my grandfathers old 1950's Craftsman 3/4" drive ratchet and a 8' cheater. ;)
 

Lagoo

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Be prepared to spend a lot of time and energy separating the upper ball joint from the spindle. That may take a lot of heat and many a hit to the spindle with a big hammer. Once it was all free I was very surprised at how difficult it was to turn the ball joint to unthread it. It took the longest breaker bar any of my friends owned and a jack handle extension with all of my body pushing or pulling the whole way out.

But, if I did it, anybody can!
Thank you
 

fury fan

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Be prepared to spend a lot of time and energy separating the upper ball joint from the spindle.
FWIW, I've used a pickling fork for years for separating suspension parts.

Recently I saw some 'new' info that looks much easier, and I'll be trying it next time:
Loosen the nut but do not remove.
With a BFH and suitable large drive punch (if not enough clearance for your hammer), give the spindle a few whacks in the area the BJ pin goes thru. It should fall down easily.
There are some YT videos showing it - see and decide for yourself, YMMV.
Of course, make sure the LCA is supported against the torsion bar pre-load. Likely need a bit of gap between support and the LCA to allow the T-bar to pull the spindle down (1/4" is plenty).
 

Lagoo

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Thank you all for info now to get socket $99 @ O'Reillys $56 on Amazon a "getter done"
 

Snotty

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Don't buy a "cheap" one. I had a choice of a $16 or $28 Pitman arm puller. I decided to save money. When it bent while not removing the arm, I went back and bought the other one. Good things come in higher priced packages.

The store did refund my 16 bucks too, for which I was appreciative.
 

Gerald Morris

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Don't buy a "cheap" one. I had a choice of a $16 or $28 Pitman arm puller. I decided to save money. When it bent while not removing the arm, I went back and bought the other one. Good things come in higher priced packages.

The store did refund my 16 bucks too, for which I was appreciative.

That's the advantage of buying at a store. I used and still have one of those Sunex sockets. With a 6 foot cheater pipe slipped over the 1/2" drive breaker bar I used for a handle, I torqued the ball joint out of that UCA alright, then put another in. If I can find a U.S. forged socket, instead of Taiwanesium, I WILL get it. Am currently purging my working tool boxes of chinesium, with good progress, before rebuilding the brakes with same goal.
 

patrick66

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That size applies to Mopar ball joints from 1958 through 1989 - basically, all of the Mopar rear drive cars built for 30+years. I believe half-ton pickups use that same size, as well.
 

Snotty

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That size applies to Mopar ball joints from 1958 through 1989 - basically, all of the Mopar rear drive cars built for 30+years. I believe half-ton pickups use that same size, as well.
I do believe the ball joints for A and B bodies are smaller than for a C. If you were thinking all large Mopars I would agree.
 

Big_John

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That size applies to Mopar ball joints from 1958 through 1989 - basically, all of the Mopar rear drive cars built for 30+years. I believe half-ton pickups use that same size, as well.

I do believe the ball joints for A and B bodies are smaller than for a C. If you were thinking all large Mopars I would agree.


There are 3 ball joint sockets that were used in the 60/70's.

There's some caveats here, but this is close.

Pre-73 A-Body uses a 1 13/16 socket. I've also seen these sockets listed as 1.809", which is an RCH under 1 13/16" Later A bodies (I think) may use the B-body size, but I've heard it both ways.

B-Body uses a 1 7/8 or 1 59/64" socket. Both work... just some socket companies added an extra 1/64" (or .015") to the socket size. I've had people tell me they've used a B-Body socket with no problem on an early A Body, but it's sloppy and you need to be a little careful.

C-Body uses the largest 2 1/8 or 2 9/64" socket. Again, that extra 1/64" on some sockets.
 

commando1

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C-Body uses the largest 2 1/8 or 2 9/64"
I found there was a tad too much slop with the 2-1/8th socket for my comfort when dealing with that nut that required 3 men and a boy to break loose. I highly recommend going that 0.08333333333 inch.
 
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MrMoparCHP

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trick I've learned doing ball joints is to have a helper push down on the socket to keep it seated and square on the ball joint, otherwise it tends to twist and slip and eventually round out the sides on the Ball joint. And use a good dose of heat on the threads, and then a quality breaker bar with probably a 4' cheater pipe. I've had ones so stubborn I had to break out my grandfathers old 1950's Craftsman 3/4" drive ratchet and a 8' cheater. ;)
I typically work alone, same idea, one strap to hold the socket down, the other to keep the bar in place, then a couple good hits with a 10# sledge and it was loose.
I then pulled the control arms and took them to work where I could put the control arm in a vice and use their 3/4 impact, still took some effort.
Previous car my 1/2 impact was good enough.
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Alan
 
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