Who Has A Poly Bushing Set

[65Fury440]

For UCA and LCA?
Firmfeel Mopar Suspension and Steering
These are a little pricey.
Racing with a stick is beating the front end up more than you would think. I thought maybe this would be a good upgrade.
Ill pony up for the Firm Feels if there is nothing else but darn.

 

[65Fury440]

Bump for edit.

 

[dart4forte]

FirmFeel probably best to buy for the quality. Beware, you must be leberal with the grease when you install these. If not the squeaking will drive you nuts.

 

[65Fury440]

While surfing sites, seen somewhere they have a specific grease for the bushings.
I suppose the right way is to just use the urethane and grease-able pivots.
The cheapskate in me wants to just put rubber in and be done with it.
The bouncing up and down on rubber seems like it would be short lived.

 

[CBODY67]

In the realm of front suspension pivots, there are places where urethane might be beneficial, but there are also places where rubber is better, by observation.

To me, the UCA would be a good place for urethane as that's not a big place where impact absorption happens, just pivoting to keep everything in place. The LCA would be where rubber might be better for impact absorption. BUT if you look at some of the old "Road and Track" vids on YouTube, it becomes obvious that the UCA is where a lot of the wheel lean during hard cornering might come from, too, at least on GM cars and their worse camber angles than anything Chrysler usually built back then. So, keeping those UCA bushings "tight" would be good.

BUT the LCA is also more important for steering accuracy. BUT how many times in normal driving do you really need laser-accurate steering in a system that's got so many greasable pivot points (and possible linkage rod flex) in the linkage? IF you were auto-crossing or racing at 3-digit speeds, a different situation. Where a .5 degree difference in total response could be significant in a competition environment, then the least deflection is the best.

Also, there are ways that road racers used to stiffen-up their rubber bushings, before urethane was used for that purpose.

CBODY67

 

[CBODY67]

One thing about urethane, should it every crack and come apart, it's a somewhat serious handling situation to deal with. When rubber degrades, it just cracks and stays put. Not a big deal to compensate for.

Also figure that the factory engineers knew how road force impacts should be dealt with. Some areas of the structure were capable of dealing with normal forces and others weren't really designed to deal with them. Keeping rubber in those places where impact absorption was designed to be can be important. Putting urethane where "just a pivot" happens, might be good.

Urethane still offers some "flex", just not as much, though. Possibly some vendors have the softer urethane than others?

I normally put urethane end link bushings on the sway bar links on my '77 Camaro. That one change was done OEM on some of the '70s TransAms, so an acceptable replacement. Supposed to effectively make the sway bar 20% stiffer. BUT over-torqueing the nut can also compress them too much. During one span of time, the Moog ones "left the link bolt", for unknown reasons. Noise and sloppier handling resulted. They also seemed softer than the OEM GM items.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I put urethane on my Charger in strut rods and sway bar. I did not do the LCA and UCA, because one of my uppers has ball joint welded in and lowers may change depending on sway bar.
That price does seem high but your getting the modified pivot (you dont have to leave the old sleeve on the original) and it is plumbed for a zerk to add grease later. Seems like they would sell just the bushings as replacement not including the shafts.
Does PST have any? They give a discount also.
@PST ......... To ring them up for a response.

 

[65Fury440]

Got fed up cross referencing last night and ordered the A/C Delco rubber versions.
They are listed as professional grade. Hopefully they haven't been sitting on the shelf for decades. If they last a couple years of abuse that will be fine.
These are the last hard parts I need (hopefully) to do the brake swap.
The only other things to find are the rubber boots for the ball joints, tie rod ends, and idler arms.
Thanks for all the help guys.