will. not. start.

[has2bmopar]

I've got fuel, air and spark. It coughs and coughs. I've tried a dozen different timing positions and it reacts correctly for those positions. I have the correct dwell.

The car sat for a long time. This is nothing new to me. I successfully resurrected a Healey that sat for 40 years. But man, this one is fighting me. Its a 68 fury III with a 383.

what am I missing ??

im half inclined to believe that the exhaust is packed shut.

sjd

I would suggest pulling off the valve covers and rocker shafts, then spray the valve stems with something on the order of Kroil or PB Blaster. You can then bump the valves all several times with a decent dead blow that is not chipped up and losing pieces. You will be able to hear if all the valves are snapping shut as they should. This will also enable you to inspect the pushrods to see if any are bent. Running old varnishy smelling fuel can sieze valves tight and generally the pushrods are the weakest link and can get severely bent.

Once you know all your valves are free, you can put your pushrods, rockers and valve covers back on with new gaskets that you most likely needed anyway.

Then I would suggest removing all the spark plugs and pour transmission fluid down the carb while spinning the engine. This will help with dry cylinders and sticky rings and it should start turning over much easier. Spinning this over without the plugs in will also help to get your lifters pumped up. If your lifters have bled down from sitting for a long period, this could actually be the problem as the valves will not open far enough to get a decent charge at a slow cranking speed.

I had a '71 383 in a Polara wagon that refused to start after sitting for years even after checking and freeing up the valves. I then removed the distributor and the gear so I could spin the oil pump with a drill about 4 different times with the engine being rotated about a 1/4 turn between sessions. I put the distributor back in and it fired right up.

Just for the record... Don't rely on the timing mark alone to put your distributor in, with the thought of just loosening it to turn it 180 degrees if it coughs back through the carb. It is a good way to jump your worn timing chain, especially with a nylon cam gear.

If the valve covers are on, so you can't see if you are on compression stroke, then pull #1 plug and have someone turn the engine until it forces air out and clearly is on the compression stroke. You can then move it up to the timing mark, install and static time your distributor.

I would throw in a new set of plugs while they are out as well.

Good luck.

Here's a '68 that I had many moons ago...

 

[ram250098]

Check the coil. Sometimes they just go bad from sitting. . . Also, make sure you are getting 12 volts to the coil. Check connections, grounds, etc.

X2..I have seen this happen many many times...I bought a car that PO was driving with only 7.5 volts at the coil..over the years of people messing with the wiring....it happends.
AL

 

[theos911]

My dad bought an old newport with points (pre-72 I think that is?) and as they got covered in carbon and the idle degraded the owner had just kept turning up the idle screw up to compensate. Once my dad cleaned the points he said it "exploded to life" with the idle so high.

 

[steved033]

There seems to have been a stuck valve, as #7 intake pushrod is bent. Three of the intake valves had massive deposits. I chipped them off and made a tiny wand for my shop vac to suck up all the bits. I have a set of 452 heads for my 440 build, but I'm going to go with aluminum heads now.

I have the pushrods from that 440 too. Just need to measure the length.

I pb'd the valve stems. I'll be back out there tomorrow with the deadblow hammer. I'll probably put in a new set of lifters while I'm in there.

Sjd

 

[steved033]

I would suggest pulling off the valve covers and rocker shafts, then spray the valve stems with something on the order of Kroil or PB Blaster. You can then bump the valves all several times with a decent dead blow that is not chipped up and losing pieces. You will be able to hear if all the valves are snapping shut as they should. This will also enable you to inspect the pushrods to see if any are bent. Running old varnishy smelling fuel can sieze valves tight and generally the pushrods are the weakest link and can get severely bent.

Once you know all your valves are free, you can put your pushrods, rockers and valve covers back on with new gaskets that you most likely needed anyway.

Then I would suggest removing all the spark plugs and pour transmission fluid down the carb while spinning the engine. This will help with dry cylinders and sticky rings and it should start turning over much easier. Spinning this over without the plugs in will also help to get your lifters pumped up. If your lifters have bled down from sitting for a long period, this could actually be the problem as the valves will not open far enough to get a decent charge at a slow cranking speed.

I had a '71 383 in a Polara wagon that refused to start after sitting for years even after checking and freeing up the valves. I then removed the distributor and the gear so I could spin the oil pump with a drill about 4 different times with the engine being rotated about a 1/4 turn between sessions. I put the distributor back in and it fired right up.

Just for the record... Don't rely on the timing mark alone to put your distributor in, with the thought of just loosening it to turn it 180 degrees if it coughs back through the carb. It is a good way to jump your worn timing chain, especially with a nylon cam gear.

If the valve covers are on, so you can't see if you are on compression stroke, then pull #1 plug and have someone turn the engine until it forces air out and clearly is on the compression stroke. You can then move it up to the timing mark, install and static time your distributor.

I would throw in a new set of plugs while they are out as well.

Good luck.

Here's a '68 that I had many moons ago...

View attachment 17501

thanks for all the tips. Love the '68

sjd

 

[bluefury361]

I would suggest pulling off the valve covers and rocker shafts, then spray the valve stems with something on the order of Kroil or PB Blaster. You can then bump the valves all several times with a decent dead blow that is not chipped up and losing pieces. You will be able to hear if all the valves are snapping shut as they should. This will also enable you to inspect the pushrods to see if any are bent. Running old varnishy smelling fuel can sieze valves tight and generally the pushrods are the weakest link and can get severely bent.


Then I would suggest removing all the spark plugs and pour transmission fluid down the carb while spinning the engine. This will help with dry cylinders and sticky rings and it should start turning over much easier. Spinning this over without the plugs in will also help to get your lifters pumped up. If your lifters have bled down from sitting for a long period, this could actually be the problem as the valves will not open far enough to get a decent charge at a slow cranking speed.

This is good advise and has worked for me to revive long dormant engines in the past.
The trans fluid will help reseal rings and boost the compression.

 

[steved033]

IT STARTED!!! PURRS LIKE A KITTEN!!!! no odd noises from the bottom end, needs an exhaust gasket, burned off tons and tons of gunk.

seafoamed the intake, the oil has marvel mystery in it, and it's not making any weird noises...except the exhaust gasket...

got that #7 unstuck, and the bent pushrod is replaced with all new lifters...

I'm so stoked.

Dropped it into gear, it seems to push both forward and backward. I'd have gone for a ride up and down the driveway, but one of the dryrotted old tires blew up on its own the other day.

sjd

 

[Fratzog]

Congrats! At least you had a payoff for all the hard work.

 

[commando1]

Great news. I can hear your pride in the post.

Posted via Topify using Android

 

[steved033]

Its like like giving life. I seem to get the most enjoyment from the real basket cases...cars in boxes, cars that have been sitting for years...

sjd

 

[Ripinator]

IT STARTED!!! PURRS LIKE A KITTEN!!!! no odd noises from the bottom end, needs an exhaust gasket, burned off tons and tons of gunk.

seafoamed the intake, the oil has marvel mystery in it, and it's not making any weird noises...except the exhaust gasket...

got that #7 unstuck, and the bent pushrod is replaced with all new lifters...

I'm so stoked.

Dropped it into gear, it seems to push both forward and backward. I'd have gone for a ride up and down the driveway, but one of the dryrotted old tires blew up on its own the other day.

sjd

Mighty fine ! Ya know. . . You got some really good advice here. . .

 

[steved033]

Mighty fine ! Ya know. . . You got some really good advice here. . .

I agree. thank you everyone!

sjd

 

[steved033]

Start #2

went down today to start it, and it started, but wouldn't stay that way. kept dying, kept dying, sounded like it had two cylinders out...just awful...now I'm worried...check the timing, it's good, backfire out the carb?? dang...what's going on??? then I see it... the brake booster hose had split so much so as to basically have been disconnected....that HUGE vacuum leak was causing all the problems...

check those hoses, everyone!!!

sjd

 

[theos911]

The last two engines I've worked on both sucked as a result of a vacuum leak. Don't think it isn't important.