Windshield and rear window installation

superfragl

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Looking for some help with windshield and rear window installation process.
I read the service manual procedure and there is a polyethylene seal that goes to the bottom of the windshield opening - does anyone sell those? Do I need it or there are modern methods that do not require it? Factory used cement on the bottom and sealer all around - what modern cement and sealers should be used? Butyl? Urethane?
Rear window uses rubber dam and caulking. Can I use butyl tape and no rubber dam?
Or just let the professional auto glass installers take care of this? I am concerned that installers can do a poor job - you newer know...
Please share your experience.
 
I used a mobile glass company for my 66 sport fury , they came to my house and only charged me $80 Canadian. Took him about 30 minutes ,and I know it is well sealed

Ken
 
it may be different for different models/years but I think the front you pull in with a string, and it has a rubber gasket.

the rear is glued in. I would expect 3m windo weld is the goop.

try not to die -

- saylor
 
Keep in mind that my input is for '67 only.

Rear glass on sedans use gaskets, 2DHT's use sealer only.

I have not done any rear glass work.

But I have done two windshields on the Newps.

Both were original windshields coming out. They both had gaskets, butyl sealer, and 1/2" wide foam tape impregnated with sticky, flexible, almost putty like sealer.

All the interior trim has to be removed as well as the exterior trim and cowl cover(which means the wiper arms come off also). Then if the gasket is still flexible, you can push the gasket and glass out in one corner and then work your way around the rest of the way.

A plastic putty knife works well to get the flap of the gasket started.

I used wood shims to keep the gasket/glass clear of the goop after it was pushed out.

If the gasket is cooked and hard as a rock, you can carefully run a knife around the inside of the windshield frame and cut the inside flap of the gasket away.

I've read that you can wipe the gasket down with something that has lanolin in it to soften it up. I've never tried that method.

New windshield gaskets can be found online.

I went to four old time glass shops and asked about the butyl sealer and sticky tape. They all told me to use only the gasket and not worry about the other stuff.

Since my cars don't get wet unless I don't check the radar before a ride, I wasn't worried about leaking.

To install, put the gasket on the windshield and then get some cord about the same size as the stuff used for pull starting small engines, and run that in the channel that will go over the pinch weld of the windshield frame. Cut it long enough to have a good handle on each end.

Lay the windshield w/gasket and cord on top of the frame. Make sure it is centered and properly set in the bottom channel. Then go inside the car and pull on one end of the cord. It will pull the flap of the gasket inside and over the pinch weld.

Make sure to hold onto the other end or you'll pull the cord out when you get to the second upper corner of the windshield.

Then reinstall all of the trim inside and out.

I was able to remove and reuse a good windshield with no trouble.

The other one had a star in it and I had a brand new replacement to use, so I got impatient and cracked the glass at the star. After that happened the entire windshield cracked all over as I pushed it out. The worst part of all was the clean up of the shards in the dash vents.

The butyl sealer the factory used was stubborn stuff to remove. I scraped as much of the heavy stuff as possible with wood shims to keep scratching to a minimum.

Then after a lot of trial and error, I discovered that PB Blaster work best to remove the residue. The trick is to spray a small spot on a rag with Blaster and wipe a small section. Then go to a fresh spot on the rag and repeat. Too much wiping with the same section only smears the sealer and spreads it out.

The key thing during the entire process is:

SLOW AND STEADY WINS THE RACE

If you get impatient, or try to go too fast, you risk damaging trim, scratching paint, or worst of all, breaking the glass.

Having a helper makes it a lot easier as well.

Hope the input helps.

John
 
Thanks for your input!
The glass is already out and it is in good shape. I will be reusing the original gasket - it is not ripped and not too hard. Cleaning up the butyl sealer was a pain... Since the car was going to be repainted I used a wire wheel on the drill and that did the job. Cleaning up the gasket is a problem... I have found that a heat gun and soft wire brush works ok. I will try PB Blaster or Kroil (I hate PB blaster smell)).
 
The glass is in!!
Bought 3/8 Butyl tape, pinchweld primer for butyl and butyl sealer in a tube. It took me 1.5 hrs to complete front and rear glass. Overall - pretty easy job.
 
The glass is in!!
Bought 3/8 Butyl tape, pinchweld primer for butyl and butyl sealer in a tube. It took me 1.5 hrs to complete front and rear glass. Overall - pretty easy job.

Congrats. Those are super fragile superfragl LOL
 
Good job. I have a lot of respect for those who can dive in and tackle a tough job, first time through, using some research and logic. Any pics?
 
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A few pics as promised.
 
Looks great. Did you use any type of sealer under the front gasket? I've watched a few video's and some guy's used a silicone type sealer under the front gasket, and some didn't.
 
Factory used butyl sealer, so did I. I put a decent amount of it in the bottom channel and between glass and gasket. After the glass was in I back filled the gasket to pinchweld area from inside (not possible to do from outside).
 
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