Windshield sealant

thethee

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The vinyl top on my 75 Imperial was in bad shape and looked like some rust bubbling underneath. Luckily, metal is in good shape, no holes! Getting all the remaining bits of vinyl off however proved difficult, mainly around the windshield. I ended up pulling a lot of the old sealant out with the remaining vinyl. I'm not sure if it leaks but I just don't want to chance it. So I'm looking for some sort of sealant to apply a bead along the windshield just in case. No idea what to use though so any advice?

TT
 
most of the stuff out on the market today is for modern windshield...quick set in under an hour, then a hard urethane seal. I recently re-did the windshield on my old 84 W350 Cummins crewcab and had to search high and low to find an old school type of windshield sealant.

This is the stuff I found...Pro Form, PF 218

DVi5-anAHaHa&w=179&h=170&c=8&rs=1&qlt=90&o=6&pid=3.jpg
 
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Over the many miles and years I've owned my '77 Camaro, it has had several issues with the windshield leaking. I got a molding removal tool and some of the OEM sealer and tried to do what you are considering a few times. Never was successful, for some reason, even with careful attention to getting the sealer where it seemed to be needed. End result, I had the glass company we use at work come out and reseal it. NO problems after that. They cut out the old stuff and put new stuff in its place. Basically, "re-setting" the glass as if it was a replacement glass.

The other side of your deal is that the OEM sealer is now many decades old and might be getting ready to leak anyway. So getting a local windshield replacement company to remove the windshield, clean the sealer up, PLUS fixing any latent rust issues, if any, and then put new sealer in place. This way everything is cleaned and new, PLUS they should give you a warranty on the sealer's performance (usually "Lifetime" or "as long as you own the car"). Which should be a "WIN-WIN' situation.

Just my experiences,
CBODY67
 
Over the many miles and years I've owned my '77 Camaro, it has had several issues with the windshield leaking. I got a molding removal tool and some of the OEM sealer and tried to do what you are considering a few times. Never was successful, for some reason, even with careful attention to getting the sealer where it seemed to be needed. End result, I had the glass company we use at work come out and reseal it. NO problems after that. They cut out the old stuff and put new stuff in its place. Basically, "re-setting" the glass as if it was a replacement glass.

The other side of your deal is that the OEM sealer is now many decades old and might be getting ready to leak anyway. So getting a local windshield replacement company to remove the windshield, clean the sealer up, PLUS fixing any latent rust issues, if any, and then put new sealer in place. This way everything is cleaned and new, PLUS they should give you a warranty on the sealer's performance (usually "Lifetime" or "as long as you own the car"). Which should be a "WIN-WIN' situation.

Just my experiences,
CBODY67
Well.. I'm not sure I'd trust a glass company over here to handle this seemingly unobtanium windshield so I will be trying some polyurethane sealant.

Found some 3M 08694 locally and it's technically seam sealer but that should work right? Since the windshield is still mostly glued in place?

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_LB/p/d/v000115405/
 
@thethee....I don't think that is the right stuff for your windshield, I've used stuff like that before and it dries and hardens to a pretty tough, but flexible state. You need something like what I posted...black tar type sealant that doesn't really get too hard once set up...still malleable and flexible days, weeks, months after installed.
 
Seam sealer is what you put on metal seams, not glass. You use it for sealing the edges of door skins (or similar) to the base structure they cover. Protects against rust forming on those sharp, painted metal edges, over time. It is a sealer not an adhesive.

Look farther in the 3M Catalog for their windshield adhesive.

ONE thing about letting an automotive glass company do the job is that if YOU do the job and waste the windshield, that money comes out of YOUR pocket. If THEY do the job, even at a little bit higher price, THEIR insurance buys a new glass. At least that's the way it is on this side of the water. Look for a glass company that does work for the new car dealerships, specifically, rather than just a "glass company" which can also do residential window glass and such. As the car is probably in a shelter at this time and the near future, you will have some time to look around for a good company to do the work. Possibly you might network with other Chrysler-oriented people in your general region for leads on getting the reseal done?

Other than the caulking gun sealer, there is the "rope sealer" which lays onto the body before the glass is placed upon it. Comes in a roll of a certain length. But you have to have the glass fully removed (and the surfaces cleaned and primed) to use it. Almost everybody uses the caulking gun style sealer, from what I've seen.

Just some thoughts and experiences, yours' might vary,
CBODY67
 
It is a sealer not an adhesive.
Well that is kind of my point.

In case I wasn't clear on it, the windshield is still fixed in place. With removing the vinyl remnants I cut out some of the excess existing seal but I'm worried that may cause some pinhole leaks. I knew I should have taken a picture
 
Well that is kind of my point.

In case I wasn't clear on it, the windshield is still fixed in place. With removing the vinyl remnants I cut out some of the excess existing seal but I'm worried that may cause some pinhole leaks. I knew I should have taken a picture
We always need pictures, especially around the window channel area where you removed the vinyl and also how dirty it is. Sealers works best on a clean surface.

How you removed the vinyl 'remnants' is important as if you used any metal object ie knife, (putty or utility) screwdriver etc. if you scratched/nicked the channel paint you will need to apply pinch weld primer to the affected areas or you will get rust.
First read the factory service manual for your car line in the glass replacement section. There are also instructions for new type car windshields which are similar.
Basically it is remove all trim pieces (and clips if you want too) spray with water from a hose and identify your leaks, then use 3M™ Fast Cure Auto Glass Urethane is a one-part, moisture-curing, auto glass urethane that produces an extremely fast-cure.

Similar product picture from Year One:

3M.WINDOW.WELD.jpg


As per instructions via 3M & the FSM the "moisture-curing" is the key component here as you lightly spray a fine mist around the channel to find leaks. If any are found use a popsicle stick to move the sealer around until you have no leaks. The moisture-curing part of the 3M product involves this fine mist spraying of water for the final leak test and starts the curing of the sealer.

1973.DODGE.FSM.WATER.TEST.WINDOW.jpg


If that doesn't solve your area leak, R & R the whole windshield and do it right as on many old cars they most likely have had the windshield replaced by some sloppy shortcutting flat rate glass jockey.

1968.Plymouth.FSM.Short.Cut.Sealing.WARNING.jpg


As a added bonus a SOP .pdf from 3M (newer cars but similar)


Good luck and LETS SEE SOME PICTURES!


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I would recommend taking the glass off and removing the fifty years old butyl. It's hardly up to the task anymore, and it is near impossible to find chemically compatible new products, so there would always be the possibility of a chemical rebuff and consequently, more leaks.

In construction business, when using SG-glazing (i.e Structural Glazing, which our Fuselage cars and newer basically have), the point is to remove all residue (moisture, dust, and especially oils) from the metal so that the surface you are going to glue the glass is absolutely clean.
You may use butanone (methyl-ethyl-ketone, C4H8O) or isopropyl alcohol (PA) liquid to ensure that. Use a clean white, lint free rag for cleaning. Wipe the surface again with another clean rag, to remove any remnants of the solvent. Then work ahead immediately (within an hour), since the metal surface is bound the get dusty again very soon.

Glue the glass to the metal using any high quality silicone adhesive. There are 1 phase, and 2-phase products available. I prefer 1 phase like Sikasil SG20 or Tremco Spectrem 2. A good 2 phase would be Tremco Proglaze II. Whichever you choose, allow a to dry.
 
Just some final thoughts of windshield installation or leak repair.

Butyl tape vs the new 'Professional' just glue it in installation.
I've seen the GraveNerdCurz episode with the Challengers windshield installation where Marks 'Pro' just goop's up the 'fence' (channel) and lays the windshield in without using a Butyl Strip (tape) not what the FSM instructs us to do. This was on a very 'Rare' Challenger (aren't they all?). You know the one where in a previous episode the 2 goons broke the all original OEM windshield upon removal. Also Nick's Garage Kowalski Challenger rear glass install where they did the same, his 'Professional' guy glue it in installation like 3 times because they couldn't get the trim to snap in correctly. Nick tossed it up to the wrong trim clip screws were sent too him, but I think the bead of adhesive may have been too thick, you would think just maybe they would figure out the screws by the 2nd try :realcrazy:

Here is why doing it the FSM way with the Butyl tape is important, to get the glass to sit correctly and the trim to fit in correctly and be able to have enough space in the channel for water to drain and dry out. Adhesive applied to thick (I know they got different size tips) will make the trim hard to snap in. Plus to much adhesive/sealant clogging up the channel may trap water and not allowing it to drain properly and may lead to rusting issues. The Butyl tape (get the correct size/thickness) is just to set the glass at the proper height so the glass sits just right for trim fitting, the water curing sealer is to be just applied along the edge of the glass and Butyl tape not fill the channel. Here more is not good, apply just what you need to seal leaks via the water test.

3M still makes these products, I don't have specific part numbers, all I relied on in the day was my experienced NAPA parts counter guys for the correct size tape and sealer. You can check the Mopar parts manual in the common hardware section for maybe recommended sealer and tape size. If not be careful with glass removal to preserve a section of butyl tape to measure.

Do it right and you will have a leak free glass install with correct fitting trim. (and easily removable trim)
Do it wrong or sloppy and you may have glass that sits to low leaving a trim gap that will allow debris (leaves/pine needles) to get into the channel and retain moisture leading to channel rust. Too much adhesive/sealer may make the glass sit to high making the trim hard to install and could lead to glass cracks.

Good Luck! and remember;

Click & Clack "He who is the cheapest usually ends up spending the most!"

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Just some final thoughts of windshield installation or leak repair.

Butyl tape vs the new 'Professional' just glue it in installation.
I've seen the GraveNerdCurz episode with the Challengers windshield installation where Marks 'Pro' just goop's up the 'fence' (channel) and lays the windshield in without using a Butyl Strip (tape) not what the FSM instructs us to do. This was on a very 'Rare' Challenger (aren't they all?). You know the one where in a previous episode the 2 goons broke the all original OEM windshield upon removal. Also Nick's Garage Kowalski Challenger rear glass install where they did the same, his 'Professional' guy glue it in installation like 3 times because they couldn't get the trim to snap in correctly. Nick tossed it up to the wrong trim clip screws were sent too him, but I think the bead of adhesive may have been too thick, you would think just maybe they would figure out the screws by the 2nd try :realcrazy:

Here is why doing it the FSM way with the Butyl tape is important, to get the glass to sit correctly and the trim to fit in correctly and be able to have enough space in the channel for water to drain and dry out. Adhesive applied to thick (I know they got different size tips) will make the trim hard to snap in. Plus to much adhesive/sealant clogging up the channel may trap water and not allowing it to drain properly and may lead to rusting issues. The Butyl tape (get the correct size/thickness) is just to set the glass at the proper height so the glass sits just right for trim fitting, the water curing sealer is to be just applied along the edge of the glass and Butyl tape not fill the channel. Here more is not good, apply just what you need to seal leaks via the water test.

3M still makes these products, I don't have specific part numbers, all I relied on in the day was my experienced NAPA parts counter guys for the correct size tape and sealer. You can check the Mopar parts manual in the common hardware section for maybe recommended sealer and tape size. If not be careful with glass removal to preserve a section of butyl tape to measure.

Do it right and you will have a leak free glass install with correct fitting trim. (and easily removable trim)
Do it wrong or sloppy and you may have glass that sits to low leaving a trim gap that will allow debris (leaves/pine needles) to get into the channel and retain moisture leading to channel rust. Too much adhesive/sealer may make the glass sit to high making the trim hard to install and could lead to glass cracks.

Good Luck! and remember;

Click & Clack "He who is the cheapest usually ends up spending the most!"

.
And if you think they haven't used butyl tape on anything since the 70's, my 2010 Ford Ranger truck's rear window is sealed with good old butyl tape.
 
And if you think they haven't used butyl tape on anything since the 70's, my 2010 Ford Ranger truck's rear window is sealed with good old butyl tape.
Yea John in doing a quick search for the 3M Window Weld & Butyl tape image I found on the 3M site that it also comes in sheets with a recommendation to use it when building a deck. I've never saw that in any of these home builder shows where they examine a shoddy deck installation. I didn't spend much time (5 min search rule) on it but I take it is that it keeps water from creeping in between the deck board joints to prevent joint wood rot. :confused:


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The Butyl tape (get the correct size/thickness) is just to set the glass at the proper height so the glass sits just right for trim fitting, the water curing sealer is to be just applied along the edge of the glass and Butyl tape not fill the channel. Here more is not good, apply just what you need to seal leaks via the water test.
This makes sense and puts my mind at ease quite a bit. I will get some PU from 3M or similar and see how that goes first. That way I can get at least get it on the road for now and get it to an auto glass shop at a later stage, if needed. I will clean and prep the surface as best I can to improve the chance of sealing.
 
By the way, if they originally used butyl tape, wouldn't it make sense to use a butyl based sealant?
 
By the way, if they originally used butyl tape, wouldn't it make sense to use a butyl based sealant?
Well you don't really need to 'overthink' the situation, like I said if you have a good parts store like NAPA with experienced counter people that you have a good rapport with you'll get the right stuff (equivalent kit).

FSM.SEALERS.003.jpg


"use only the recommended adhesive sealer kit or its equivalent"

Since I really doubt that you will find this kit part number at the Mopar dealers today, but who knows you may want to call around and give them a try. I see your in the Netherlands, oh boy rots'a ruck on the NAPA parts supplier.

See if you can find that 3M Window Weld sealer at your local chemical suppliers or body shop suppliers. If all else fail you can order from Year One I'm sure they ship worldwide.

Don't let anyone else steer you too anything else (latest wonder goo) I'm sure today there are many that will.

Can we see some good hi resolution pictures of what you have? You may not need to do anything, remove all trim, clean out channel and water test, no leaks no worries, leave it as it is.


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Year One sells worldwide all right. I’ve bought a lot of stuff from them during the last 12 years. But the 3M stuff is readily available in EU. No need to order from overseas.
 
This makes sense and puts my mind at ease quite a bit. I will get some PU from 3M or similar and see how that goes first. That way I can get at least get it on the road for now and get it to an auto glass shop at a later stage, if needed. I will clean and prep the surface as best I can to improve the chance of sealing.

The product I posted up does not need any special cleaning or surface prep...just clean out any old loose, cracking sealant then squeeze in the new sealant...done! Use a damp finger to clean up the excess and flow into nooks and crannies.

I drive my truck year round in the cold north and this stuff has worked great with no failures for my backyard re-seal jobs.
 
Well you don't really need to 'overthink' the situation, like I said if you have a good parts store like NAPA with experienced counter people that you have a good rapport with you'll get the right stuff (equivalent kit).

View attachment 554218

"use only the recommended adhesive sealer kit or its equivalent"

Since I really doubt that you will find this kit part number at the Mopar dealers today, but who knows you may want to call around and give them a try. I see your in the Netherlands, oh boy rots'a ruck on the NAPA parts supplier.

See if you can find that 3M Window Weld sealer at your local chemical suppliers or body shop suppliers. If all else fail you can order from Year One I'm sure they ship worldwide.

Don't let anyone else steer you too anything else (latest wonder goo) I'm sure today there are many that will.

Can we see some good hi resolution pictures of what you have? You may not need to do anything, remove all trim, clean out channel and water test, no leaks no worries, leave it as it is.


.
I will try to get a picture next time I'm out there. In the meantime I'll try and stop with the overthinking. Difficult though as this is my only car.
 
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