Wiring Power Distribution Module - Splicing 12v IGN Power

Furyus67

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Forgive me, for I am ignorant when it comes to wiring.
I am in the process of getting a power distribution module configured to house two relays for the headlight upgrade, as well as a relay for the electric fuel pump and a fuse for the electric choke. Additionally I will be using a switch somewhere on the dash to power the fuel pump on and off. I have also upgraded to a pertronix ignition.

I have jumped the ballast resistor like seen below:
2016-07-03 14.12.11.jpg


I planned on using the switched power coming off the ballast resistor for all of this to tie into. I found the picture below that I think clearly labels everything.
BallastResistor.JPG

My question is which of these IGN switch wires am I splicing into? Also they have dual plastic connectors or the end. Am I splicing into them before the connector and then still plugging the connector into the ballast resistor? I have been reading the following post to try and gain understanding but I am still a little confused as to where I am splicing together. Switched 12v source

I have been working with Tony from CE Auto Electric Supply to put this module together. This is what he has stated that I need:
Trigger wire from the source of switched +12V ignition to the PDC
Trigger wire from the source of switched +12V ignition to the dash-mounted switch
Trigger wire from the dash mounted switch to the PDC
Choke Feed to the PDC
Fuel Pump Feed to the PDC
Source of Battery Power to the PDC

Last question of this long post. I will be running 3 additional Autometer gauges inside. Where would be the best, clean, place to splice the 12v lighting and 12v switched power in?
Screen Shot 2020-10-26 at 9.05.16 AM.png
 

saylor

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you make your 1s like a german - are you from across the lake?

id steal power off the fuse block myself, either on a blank spot or one of those little brass tap thingys that goes around the edge of a glass fuse.

id like to explore the fuel pump switch with you and tony :)

if you want the fuel pump running all the time, use a oil pressure switch and relay - i wrote up how to do it somewhere in this forum.

if you want the switch to power the fuel pump as a carb primer pre-start, simply use a toggle switch inline of the trigger wire to provide you a manual interrupt.

try to find my post about oil pressure kill switch and electric fuel pump etc. i think it will help you.

try not to die -

- saylor
 

Furyus67

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id like to explore the fuel pump switch with you and tony :)

if you want the fuel pump running all the time, use a oil pressure switch and relay - i wrote up how to do it somewhere in this forum.

if you want the switch to power the fuel pump as a carb primer pre-start, simply use a toggle switch inline of the trigger wire to provide you a manual interrupt.

try to find my post about oil pressure kill switch and electric fuel pump etc. i think it will help you.

We talked about this before. I think because I am trying to use the sender from the electric oil pressure gauge it is making it more difficult. I did buy the the brass extension, a T, and a pressure switch but I can't seem to get it all to fit right without hitting the distributor vacuum advance. I bought a 6 inch and a 4 inch extension. I suppose I would need to bend it to get the extension coming out towards the passenger side to make room for the sender and the pressure switch. Then it would be sticking out there like a sore thumb.

id steal power off the fuse block myself, either on a blank spot or one of those little brass tap thingys that goes around the edge of a glass fuse.

Do you have a picture of this being done? I'll need to go look at the fuse panel to get a better understanding.
 

Wildaugust

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This sounds like an interesting modification. There are usually two unused terminals on auto fuse panels, one switched and one unswitched. I just wired my audio system into the unswitched terminal for the memory and clock functions to work properly. Anyway, how about tying into the switched terminal of the fuse panel? It will likely need a female spade connector. This will probably be good for about a 15 Amp load to your "Power Distribution Module." If you need more than 15 Amps you could trigger a relay from the switched fuse box terminal. The relay could then be used to control a heavier wire (say #10ga) fused appropriately, from the battery(+) terminal or the battery side of the main fuse link/starter relay terminal, to your PDM.
 

saylor

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wildaugust what you wanna do is only steal power for the trigger wire to fire a relay. use a relay and use full battery power (FUSED) that way you dont have to pull 15a thru the fuse panel.

furyous67 i have the oil sendo at the back of the motor and dist is up front on a 383/440 - i dont know what block you are using. but you can use brass Ts or just bend the brass tubing to where it fits. theres got to be a place you can get oil pressure from that has clearance. somewhere.


https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Power-Electrical-Wiring-Terminal/dp/B003L9JD82


try not to die -

- saylor
 

Furyus67

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furyous67 i have the oil sendo at the back of the motor and dist is up front on a 383/440 - i dont know what block you are using. but you can use brass Ts or just bend the brass tubing to where it fits. theres got to be a place you can get oil pressure from that has clearance. somewhere.

try not to die -

- saylor

This is where my sender is...
IMG_0565.jpg



Would your link above be something to use to wire my Autometer gauges to?
IMG_0569.jpg



Here is a picture of the wires that would go into the Ballast Resistor. How would I combine all these trigger wires and such into these for the 12v power?
IMG_0558.jpg
IMG_0561_edited.jpg
 

Wildaugust

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That fuse box doesn't look like it has the extra terminals I was talking about. I would test the wires to the ballast to see which one has power with the key in the "run" position, then use that wire to trigger a 30A relay and take power for your PDM directly from the battery (+) terminal or cable connection at the starter relay, using, say a #10ga wire. Fuse the wire appropriately as close to the source as possible.

Remember though, that no matter where you take your power from, your charging system will have to make up for the extra load. There will be more current going through the charging system to power any additional accessories you add.
 

Wildaugust

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wildaugust what you wanna do is only steal power for the trigger wire to fire a relay. use a relay and use full battery power (FUSED) that way you dont have to pull 15a thru the fuse panel.







try not to die -

- saylor
Maybe I was a bit generous when I said 15 Amps. I generally don't have any problem with taking small amounts of power from the fuse box though. I used a 5 Amp fuse to take power for the clock and memory functions of my audio system. It likely doesn't even draw anything near that. The harness uses a plastic fuse and 5 Amps seems to be the smallest available. His fuse box doesn't seem to have those terminals anyway. So, yeah, use a relay.
 
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