Woodgrain options

[66MonacoWagon]

I am looking into an affordable solution to replace my faded woodgrain. Care to offer your opinions?

Left
Middle
Right

All 3M Dinoc Vinyl Wrap

I'm looking for the best look, not necessarily the best match.

Thanks in advance!
Joe

 

[live4theking]

The left looks good to me.

 

[CBODY67]

In a Google search several years ago, the only woodgrain still available new was from the Chrysler minivans. Otherwise, you might find a vehicle wrap place that can picture and reproduce the woodgrain you have, the good section as a sample, possibly work some electronic magic, and have something new. OR, check out the recent thread on the painted woodgrain from a '69 T&C in here.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

3M Dinoc is available in 4x8 sheets I believe, or at least in sheets big enough to do a grain-matched applique on a car. There are a myriad of options with their colours, grains, and for interior purposes (consoles etc) they have various embossing (called "ticking").

The left hand option will be too much woodgrain contrast when seen in large scale on the side of a car. The one on the right however, looks nearly perfect to me.

 

[66MonacoWagon]

I’m looking into a cost effective alternative. I can get enough for the car for about $350, and I’d attempt to do the job without removing all the trim. I ordered about 8 different samples, and these three were the best (some honey tones looked too yellow and some warm tones were too red). I even ordere a sample of the black woodgrain just to see.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Keep in mind if you're not removing the trim, that the woodgrain can shrink an therefore pull away from the trim and show a gap. That's why in part the woodgrain was applied in areas under the trim to avoid edge gaps created by shrinkage.

Having a professional woodgrain artist paint it in would be super cool, and of course, wouldn't shrink!! I've seen some fabulous examples out there.

 

[CBODY67]

I’m looking into a cost effective alternative. I can get enough for the car for about $350, and I’d attempt to do the job without removing all the trim.

So, if you're not desiring to remove the trim, how are you planning on getting the old 'grain off and also have a smooth surface for the new woodgrain to be installed upon?

I suspect the new woodgrain COULD be installed over the existing 'grain, BUT you'd then be installing the new product over an old product (door dings, scrapes, flake-offs, and all) that might be getting ready to have some further aging issues.

I fully understand the desire to keep costs as reasonable as possible! BUT like a paint job, surface prep is key to having a pride-ful finished product. Now and later. Finding a "close match" woodgrain is the easy part. Also remember that the existing woodgrain has sun-faded over the years, so seeking to match THAT color might not be accurate for the car. Are there some little pieces that wrapped around the edges of the door skins that might provide a more accurate match?

CBODY67

 

[66MonacoWagon]

I might be way off base, but I was thinking I could wet sand down to the car paint underneath?

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Hmm... sanding vinyl doesn't sound good to me, however I don't have any experience trying that.

I would expect it has to be removed with an appropriate softener and peeled/scraped away and then all the glue removed and then the paint underneath dressed and cleaned.

I'm sure others here have got suggestions.

 

[Fury Pursuit]

I have a friend that reproduced 1970 Plymouth woodgrain from NOS materials, printed on UV resistant material. He has extra.

If you are interested PM me.

It is an EXACT NOS match, as factory original. It's the best available, if you are into original equipment.

Don't try to sand the existing decal.

Remove your trim, use a heat gun, and release agent, then if you sand the paint, block it flat, don't break through the paint.

Good luck!

 

[saforwardlook]

3M Dinoc is available in 4x8 sheets I believe, or at least in sheets big enough to do a grain-matched applique on a car. There are a myriad of options with their colours, grains, and for interior purposes (consoles etc) they have various embossing (called "ticking").

The left hand option will be too much woodgrain contrast when seen in large scale on the side of a car. The one on the right however, looks nearly perfect to me.

The sample on the right looks to have a red hue to it, unlike the original. And the original woodgrain now on the wagon is also aged and faded some I would think. Thus the sample on the left might just restore the woodgrain look to original, and not faded/worn as it is now.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

With all the choices available it all boils down to personal taste.

 

[polara71]

I liked the one on the left as appearing most original to me. The one on the right appears a bit deeper with a richer look. I'd probably go with that one IF it were mine

 

[glennb49]

Kathy did the wood grain free hand on my 72, in base coat clear coat, 15 years ago then I cleared it The color and grain were not original but it still looked great when I sold the car in September, I'm having sellers remorse! My new 94 Roadmaster woodgrain is in good original shape except for the surround moldings that are peeling the clear coating! Hopefully I can get her to perform her magic again!!

 

[Imperialist67]

I'm having the same issue/problem with my Diplomat wagon....... I'd recommend checking with the ASWOA (station wagon club) where there is a separate section of the web-site for it (last I looked).

The "painted" woodgrain I have seen often looks really slick from a distance, but when observed "close-up" something seems off.....

As far as the three samples you have, I'd agree with what some others wrote, the one on the left (feel free to share the 3M part number/color designation) has a more original look to it. It looks more like "vintage DiNoc as we remember it......

 

[66MonacoWagon]

So I want to expand on my question of removing the decal with heat vs sanding. From the best I can tell, the original decal is over a base color of brown? My decal has deteriorated to almost a powder. In places it is down to the brown base. Is there no way to sand back the decal?

 

[Carmine]

So I want to expand on my question of removing the decal with heat vs sanding. From the best I can tell, the original decal is over a base color of brown? My decal has deteriorated to almost a powder. In places it is down to the brown base. Is there no way to sand back the decal?

Personally, I think you could get it smooth enough with a DA, start with 180, end with 320. You could maybe even wet sand it with 400. All of this predicated on no real damage... nothing that won't feather edge.

But you'll never do decent job without pulling the trim.

There is no base color under the vinyl, just body-color paint. You're probably just seeing the base vinyl after all the ink as faded away.

 

[CBODY67]

The issue with sanding the decal is that the vinyl will "load-up" the sandpaper/grit very quickly. It'll get probably 6" worth at a time before you'll need to clean the paper . . . even 80-grit. End result is LOTS of sanding, no matter what! Then you'll need to use progressively finer grits to get the gouge marks out of the surface.

CBODY67

 

[Zymurgy]

I am a house painter and it has been my experience vinyl just heats up when sanding and doesn't just come off. The same goes with the adhesive underneath. You need to figure find a solvent for the adhesive. I always start with something like WD-40 or diesel and then go stronger and use a plastic putty knife.

All that being said if it is as crispy as you say sanding might work fine. When you are ready go ahead and try it first.

 

[Carmine]

All that being said if it is as crispy as you say sanding might work fine. When you are ready go ahead and try it first.

That's basically what I'm saying... I should have used "crispy". I've dealt with vinyl stripes that have lost any "elasticity". They become brittle and peeling them is a lost cause. Sanding them becomes the only way to remove them. They will feather-edge at this point... not enough that you could paint over them, but enough that a sheet of vinyl would cover 320 grit scratches.