Worn out distributor?

[Zymurgy]

I thought I would try a new thread in the right area. I've had issues with the 300 for weeks. I can move the shaft 3/16 up and down and can feel it wiggle side to side.

Running stock original distributor on 383 with Carter AFB. No plans to modify engine.

Recommendations? Rebuilt? New? Was going to go with electronic ignition.

 

[rexus31]

I thought I would try a new thread in the right area. I've had issues with the 300 for weeks. I can move the shaft 3/16 up and down and can feel it wiggle side to side.

Running stock original distributor on 383 with Carter AFB. No plans to modify engine.

Recommendations? Rebuilt? New? Was going to go with electronic ignition.

Could be Mike.

FWIW, I've tried twice to install a Pertronix unit on my '65 383 and both times it ran like crap. For some reason it doesn't like them. I've ran one in my '64 GTO for going on 10 years now without issue.

I'd look into the Fusible Link as well. That was my issue, anyway.
http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/showthread.php?7853-Strange-Thing-Happened-Today

 

[300cruiser]

Could you 'Macgyver' a test set-up using your timing light to confirm the continuous presence of spark off the cap? I've done this before when I had a significant miss. Reading your other thread it appears that you can easily replicate the problem.

 

[Zymurgy]

Whether this is the issue or not I feel the distributor needs rebuilt or replaced. Anyone running the MSD Ignition 8386? I can't find any comments good or bad about this distributor. It is made specifically for a 383 or 400.

The other route anyone you recommend to rebuild the factory distributor.

 

[Zymurgy]

Whether this is the issue or not I feel the distributor needs rebuilt or replaced. Anyone running the MSD Ignition 8386? I can't find any comments good or bad about this distributor. It is made specifically for a 383 or 400.

The other route anyone you recommend to rebuild the factory distributor.

 

[detmatt]

Somebody around here should have a good used one that you could use, hell I might even have one. I'd locate the correct one for your car and install the pertronix in it if it were me.

 

[mr. fix it]

I would think if you can install a newer electronic version and go a stock as possible it will give you a reliable running engine..

 

[butchr66]

How's the timing? Takes alot for a distributor to go "bad". 9 times out of 10 it's dwell, wore out shaft bushing or something of the like. You gotta go through the numbers and work from easy up. Distributors always have some bit of play because they're not terribly important. All they basically do is distribute a spark to a combustion chamber but at the right time.

 

[rexus31]

I'd just get a reman if you thinking yours is bad.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...?model=300&vi=1412345&year=1966&make=Chrysler

FWIW, I'll just run points in the Chrysler as it doesn't like the Pertronix unit. No biggie, as often as I drive it, the point should last a long while.

Based on my experience, I'd still try replacing the fusible link.

 

[Zymurgy]

Raining all day today I am going to get busy rounding things up. Thanks a million Scott, you just saved me a bunch of money on the rebuild, over the new distributor I was looking at. I can get one for only $44.99 with core. I can go to my local NAPA and pick up a 16 gauge fusible link for $3.99.

I will be keeping my fingers crossed.

 

[rexus31]

Raining all day today I am going to get busy rounding things up. Thanks a million Scott, you just saved me a bunch of money on the rebuild, over the new distributor I was looking at. I can get one for only $44.99 with core. I can go to my local NAPA and pick up a 16 gauge fusible link for $3.99.

I will be keeping my fingers crossed.

Replace one at a time.

 

[rexus31]

Mike:

I tried to respond to your PM but you've exceeded your storage space.

Anyway, is your Fusible Link Harness the same as mine? If so, I will have all the stuff needed to make one for you. All I would need is your original to remove the Fusible Link tag and the cover that goes over the spade connector that attaches to the Bulkhead.



Let me know. I'll be picking up the supplies today and hope to have mine completed today or tomorrow.

 

[Zymurgy]

Mine is different thanks so much for the offer. I replaced the distributor already that wasn't it but it does run better. Here is a picture of mine

 

[Zymurgy]

DAMMIT!! That was not it. The only thing I haven't tried is the thick carb gasket. I left it at home. Lunch break and add the carb gasket.

 

[Zymurgy]

Well I have the wrong gasket. I don't really feel that was the issue. The new distributor was needed needed it was not running well when it was cold especially. I was able to take a test drive while the cold engine light was on it was still doing the same thing, vapor lock is not the issue. Back to square one.

 

[detmatt]

Did your old distributed have a tin tag behind one of the screws with a part number on it? And if so did you keep it?
sorry to hear about the continuing problem. You have or haven't replaced the fusible link?

 

[mr. fix it]

Can you start over by describing exactly what the engine is doing?
You seem to be zoned in on the distributor or the fusible link being the cause.

Taking a step back to give the details of what is happening can help to clear your head and start out attacking this with a fresh approach.

 

[detmatt]

He's attacking this from 2 different threads at this point and I can't wait to find out what it is.

 

[mr. fix it]

Where's the other thread?

 

[Wollfen]

Where's the other thread?

http://www.forcbodiesonly.com/mopar...out-after-3-to-4-seconds-of-medium-acceration