Wyatt convinced me to destroy my 71...

Today we had transmission school at the shop, with our instructor Xenon.:thumbsup:
Wyatt and I learned a lot and out teach made sure we were understanding the process before movin on to the next step. The trans I picked up last weekend, and the New Yorkers 727 were what we worked on today.
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When we got to the disc and steels the NYers were burnt pretty bad as seen in the pics...
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Later we stopped for a break and had lunch.
Finished up with working in the two trans, and plan to wrap them up next week, with the guidance of Xenon. Thanks bud!!
The powder coating company who will be sand blasting/powder coat will be closed for the week of Thanksgiving, which is fine because the passenger side frame needed some attention before leaving the shop.
After Wyatt welded up the split seam, and hit a few other spots that seemed to need work too , the stub frame will go the first week in December.
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With all the burn-outs you guys do, be sure the overrunning clutch cam hex screws are nice and tight! :poke:
 
With all the burn-outs you guys do, be sure the overrunning clutch cam hex screws are nice and tight! :poke:
Noted.

But from my understanding of the FSM with the explanation from Xenon...you'll only run into an issue with the over running clutch exploding if you leave the shifter in 1st and catch traction abruptly. I'm pretty sure you mentioned the same thing to me as well...

What that tells me is when doing a burnout, make sure you get enough wheel speed to hit all three gears making as much smoke and noise as you can while you lay a couple dark black marks in the pavement.

I've never cooked a 727, but I've left plenty of patches.
 
You know how to hurt a guy! :soapbox:

Maybe after you spend a lot of money and time on it, you might not be so inclined to beat it!

Does that circled patch signify a demon that resides in that garage?

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Some pics from my end of Torqueflight 727 101 with @Xenon and @sixpkrt @BLIMP also joined in on the fun today!

I truly appreciate the opportunity to tear in and learn how ABSOLUTELY SIMPLE these 727s are. Thank you very much Xenon and Tim!

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Yes, I had one friend take me through the TQ rebuilding process once and after that it was pretty easy to do them yourself. Having a few special tools helps as well..................

Just a side note, in seeing the New Yorker in the background stripped back to the firewall made me think that Tim might want to replace his blower motor with an aftermarket one such as Bosch that would be a direct replacement. For some reason, the original ones don't seem to age well, drawing increasing amounts of current to make them run, which in turn tends to frying the main power lead in the connector under the steering column, melting the connector in the process. Even cars with low miles on them seem to fry that connector most of the time on the cars I have. It took me a while to track down the blower motor as the culprit most of the time.
 
Yes, I had one friend take me through the TQ rebuilding process once and after that it was pretty easy to do them yourself. Having a few special tools helps as well..................

Just a side note, in seeing the New Yorker in the background stripped back to the firewall made me think that Tim might want to replace his blower motor with an aftermarket one such as Bosch that would be a direct replacement. For some reason, the original ones don't seem to age well, drawing increasing amounts of current to make them run, which in turn tends to frying the main power lead in the connector under the steering column, melting the connector in the process. Even cars with low miles on them seem to fry that connector most of the time on the cars I have. It took me a while to track down the blower motor as the culprit most of the time.
Interesting...he will have to add that to his parts list!
 
Tim might want to replace his blower motor with an aftermarket one such as Bosch that would be a direct replacement. For some reason, the original ones don't seem to age well, drawing increasing amounts of current to make them run.

Interesting, thanks.
You have a link or product# for this Bosch blower motor?
Does that fit 1 on 1?
Will the dash have to come out?
 
Interesting, thanks.
You have a link or product# for this Bosch blower motor?
Does that fit 1 on 1?
Will the dash have to come out?

I am not seeing the Bosch brand at this time on ebay, but the 4 seasons brand should be just as good, and it has the proper mounting holes and the rubber connecting tube round cut out in the mounting housing to push one of the connecting tube ends right in place:

For 1965-1973 Chrysler Newport Blower Motor Front 35235MK 1966 1967 1968 1969 | eBay

You would need to reuse your old fan cage (which is plastic). If it is broken then you would have to find one with the cage already, but I am not seeing one easily this evening when looking on ebay that has the right mounting housing with the motor and with the plastic cage. You might want to search further.

You do not have to take out the dash or really do anything to the dash, but you do have to remove the right inner fender shroud, which isn't a lot of fun, but still better than having to mess with the dash (probably easiest to support the right front end of the car with a jack stand and remove the wheel for best access). It would be a good time to replace the heater hoses at the heater core outlets in the engine compartment while you are in there. All very straightforward once the inner fender shroud is removed. You would also need to put a couple new electrical wire blades with plastic connectors on the two bare wire ends, again very straightforward.
 
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It was a perfect opportunity to learn about the 727 from the old zen-master, thanks for the invite. Tim you have an outstanding shop and thanks again for being such a great host.
 
727 class continued today with Xenon, and had the opportunity to work on both transmissions, doing the same steps on each unit, one at a time. When doing the front clutch drum and band installation, took a few pics for the thread here. Getting the drum to drop in so that all the discs are seated correctly is critical, and much easier done when in an upright position.
I almost took a hole saw out to cut a circle in the wood table, but having an extra set of hands available, one to hold the trans upright, and the other to turn the clutch drum, the discs finally dropped into place.
The front band would go on next, then the pump after changing out the seal. Everything the moves receives a lightly coat of trans fluid as the assembly progressed.
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Didn't get too many pictures but did manage to get some pics of the front band assembly...
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Then got a few pics of replacement of the pump seal....
This week the stub frame gets picked up, and continue on the trans valve body, sometime in between the 9 to 5 gig.
Before locking up tonight, primered and painted the gear selector lever and kick down lever for both 727's.
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I'm sure Xenon knows this but you can test the clutch and band applies with low air pressure before you put the pan back on. That pretty much assures you have done things correctly. Just an fyi for others looking at this rebuild. Good progress!
 
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