Your preferable alternator

Timmayy

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So I am scrolling through all these posts. I see different people with different opinions. I would like to know some pros and cons from you all.

I read the post about the High Octane headlight harness upgrade. So this upgrade will help relieve some load on the factory harness?

What alternators are you all using? My wife's car is a 67 Fury III wagon. No power accessories. I've replaced the VR and did the electronic ignition conversion. That's about it. 318 2 barrel. I do notice the gauge fluctuating when running lights, wipers and hitting the brake lights. It drops. I have the factory alt that's been rebuilt. Her battery died and I replaced it but the gauge still reads low when under heavy load. I am going to try an alt from my 65 Belvedere. I never had an issue with that one. Should I upgrade to a Tuff Stuff one wire alt? I just don't want to overload the system. Plus I get the nasty look from wifey when she's stranded at the market.

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1970FuryConv

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I like the 60amp alternators from mid 1980s Dodge Dam pickups

You can usually get a decent one at NAPA or Autozone
 

mrfury68

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The headlamp relay will take load from your headlamp switch which will help it last longer and cut down on the dimming when at idle. You can run a heavy gauge wire from your alternator output stud to the battery stud on the starter relay. This will keep half of the current from going through the bulkhead to the ammeter. Inspect and clean your bulkhead terminals, looking for any overheated or corroded connections. This was an Achilles heel on our cars and worst case scenario resulted in a dash fire. Check all of your grounds. If you want to do an ammeter bypass, do a search on here. There are very detailed posts on how to do it. Do you have any "old school" auto electric shops in your area that rebuild starters and alternators? Even though yours was rebuilt you may want to check the output under load. Very cool wagon BTW. Good luck.
 

CBODY67

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The meter fluctuations you mention are somewhat normal on Chrysler products of that vintage. Nothing to really worry about, although it you start to "key" on them, it can decrease your trust that everything is normal. A fluctuation of a needle-width is no big deal, but if it gets more than that, it can be. The better electronic "old look" voltage regulators might catch the voltage changes sooner and not be so evident?

With a low-option vehicle, what is the alternator's output that is in there now? Going up to a factory a/c alternator and a Group 27 battery might help?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 

FURYGT

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The recommendation on the ballast resistor was not based on a charging issue. It was based on the conversion to electronic ignition.
 

Timmayy

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Well I ended up switching the alternator out for the one in my 65 Belvedere wagon. Stock rebuild with no built in voltage regulator. I also changed the stock voltage regulator with a cheap digital one I bought from Autozone. Seems OK. I'll still get the ones from FURYGT though.
 
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