Rear drum brake service

[jstaples2]

Hi all -
I'm looking to freshen up the rear drum brakes on my 1968 fury 3. (I had a shop install front disc brakes a few months back). I haven't touched the rear since I purchased the car and frankly haven't worked on brakes before. I'm looking for any advice you all might have before I go disassembling everything.

Since I've never worked on brakes before is it even something I should attempt? The last thing I want is to f&$% something up on the brakes.

I've got the service manual and feel like I ought to be able to step through the disassembly and re-assembly ok - but what I lack is experience.

Any tips/tricks or things to look out for? Any parts I should certainly not re-use (ie, buy all new hardware).

Thanks for any advice/encouragement.

 

[1970cat]

take apart one side at a time so you can use the other side as an example for reassembly.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

You need some basic special tools (available at your local auto parts store relatively cheap), it takes a little trial and error to figure out how to use them. Only do one side at a time that way you can see how it goes together.

Alan

 

[saylor]

where you at in texas?

i think i posted all the part #s you need somewhere, from when i did my 68 fury. its here somewhere. between vatozone and orilieys you can get new everything.

watch out on the springs/clips. they sold me the wrong ones and the shoes slipped off the drum, and it was very very very hard to separate them to fix it.

you need some spring pliers, cheap at vatozone.

 

[Big_John]

After you take the wheels and drums off, do one side at a time. That way you can always reference the other side. Pay attention to how the shoes are oriented on each side of the car.

Buy a couple cans of brake cleaner.

Buy some tools. Here's a cheap set that will do it. Brake Tool Set 7 Pc You'll use the black handled tool to push in the hold down spring retainers. The bent tool in the front is used to take the return springs off and on. I've done brake jobs without any of those tools, but it's much easier with them.

Replace the springs and hold downs with new.

Replacing the wheel cylinder is up to you. Some do it as a matter of course, some don't unless it's leaking or just old. Replacing will involve bleeding the brake lines.

Find a good you tube video. I'm sure there's one out there.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

The two tools Big John mentioned are the only two specialty tools I use, the bent bar is actually two tools. One end is used to remove the springs, the other to install them. I also use long nose pliers and a screwdriver.


Alan

 

[Big_John]

The two tools Big John mentioned are the only two specialty tools I use, the bent bar is actually two tools. One end is used to remove the springs, the other to install them. I also use long nose pliers and a screwdriver.


Alan

Yep, those are the main two that you'll need, although the brake spoon is handy to have.

 

[barnfind]

Big shoe to the Back

 

[jstaples2]

Thanks guys! I'll get myself a set of tools, brake cleaner and new hardware and get after it this weekend. I appreciate the quick responses and will let you know how it turns out!

 

[jstaples2]

where you at in texas?

i think i posted all the part #s you need somewhere, from when i did my 68 fury. its here somewhere. between vatozone and orilieys you can get new everything.

watch out on the springs/clips. they sold me the wrong ones and the shoes slipped off the drum, and it was very very very hard to separate them to fix it.

you need some spring pliers, cheap at vatozone.

I't about 30 minutes north of Austin. Just moved here in July and am loving Texas!

 

[saylor]

you need jason. he lives down there, and he knows more than me

 

[jstaples2]

you need jason. he lives down there, and he knows more than me

Does he drive a blue 68 Fury 2door? I've seen one buzzing around the area, but never got a chance to talk to the owner.

 

[saylor]

his nick is 68plymouth383 he is in bourne - but it says he hasnt logged in for a while.... i hope hes OK.

 

[saylor]

here. read this.

ECI c - body brake kit

 

[joetrucker]

Big shoe to the Back

Good point,not much difference in shoe surface,myself this is when axle seals should be done as well...clean and paint backing plate,re-assm with all new....good for years

 

[bluefury361]

Measure the brake shoe width before ordering. They can vary a quarter to a half inch, which affects what hardware kit you need. Replace the wheel cylinders, and all hardware and adjusters. Be sure to have the drums resurfaced also.
Take your time, pay attention, it's a easy and fun project.

 

[mobileparts]

They came equipped with 11" x 2" & 11" x 2 1/2" Rear shoes -- at this moment in time -- I have BOTH of them in N.O.S. +++ Asbestos ++ and you would be
smart -- if you love your car -- to ONLY go in that direction.... I also have the wheel cylinders and all the brake hardware, if you need or would like....

 

[65sporty]

Definitely change the hardware and cylinders, do it all now and save the heartache of having to go back if something breaks or starts to leak.

 

[jstaples2]

Ok, so I finally had some time to get the drums off and measure things. The diameter of the drum is 11 and the shoe width is 2". After looking around for a replacement 11x2 drums I found that they aren't readily available. Is it possible to move up to the 11x2.5 if I change out the backing plate with one for 11x2.5?

<edit> Added pics

 

[saforwardlook]

Ok, so I finally had some time to get the drums off and measure things. The diameter of the drum is 11 and the shoe width is 2". After looking around for a replacement 11x2 drums I found that they aren't readily available. Is it possible to move up to the 11x2.5 if I change out the backing plate with one for 11x2.5?

<edit> Added pics

The drum width limits the shoe width, not the backing plate. You are also clearly leaking differential oil - not a good thing. So be sure to replace the axle shaft seals and might as well do the wheel cylinders too as recommended above. You are getting into some more difficult territory with what is ahead if you are just starting out. If the line fittings are rusty at all, be sure to soak them in rust penetrant before starting the job and use some line wrenches too. You might end up messing up some brake lines if you are not careful. You might want to see if you can have a friend drop by who has some experience doing this kind of work and walk you through it if you are a first time newbie. And if you proceed also be sure to wear some eye protection in case some of those old springs decide to break when trying to remove or reinstall them - better to use new ones if you can find the correct ones. In my area at least, only Autozone shows the 11X2" shoes readily available. Not O'Reilly's or NAPA.