For Sale 1965 Fury III wagon _ Sterling Heights MI

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GregG48203

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Not Mine:
1965 plymouth sta-wagon
1965 plymouth sta-wagon - $3500
383 BUILT 727 TRAN RUN GREAT VERY LOW MILES
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Go get it Greg but but talk him down at least $1500.
 
Looks road hard and put up wet. Love the 65 though.
 
No pictures of the undercarriage or interior but if in even decent shape the rarity of the station wagons makes this hard to price. Is $3500 that far out of line?
 
It either has a decent pump and that Mr. Gasket regulator leaves a bit to be desired or it has a shitty Mr. Gasket 30GPH pump and the regulator is totally unnecessary. My money is on the latter.

Why are cheap are electric fuel pumps seemingly the first modification people make? What's the fuel demand of this iron-headed, HP manifold-ed, carbureted 383 that a cheap parts counter Airtex mechanical pump couldn't accommodate? How much more did this guy spend over the cost of a Carter muscle car pump to have that Mickey Mouse setup? Bet you a quarter it's still 5/16 line.
 
It either has a decent pump and that Mr. Gasket regulator leaves a bit to be desired or it has a shitty Mr. Gasket 30GPH pump and the regulator is totally unnecessary. My money is on the latter.

Why are cheap are electric fuel pumps seemingly the first modification people make? What's the fuel demand of this iron-headed, HP manifold-ed, carbureted 383 that a cheap parts counter Airtex mechanical pump couldn't accommodate? How much more did this guy spend over the cost of a Carter muscle car pump to have that Mickey Mouse setup? Bet you a quarter it's still 5/16 line.
My Polara came with one, Black & Decker aqaurium pump, when I bought it. Mounted as high as possible, :thumbsup: but it works and I like being able to pump the fuel without having to start the engine. Necessary, no, but I'd put in one again, albeit properly.
 
Why are cheap are electric fuel pumps seemingly the first modification people make? What's the fuel demand of this iron-headed, HP manifold-ed, carbureted 383 that a cheap parts counter Airtex mechanical pump couldn't accommodate? How much more did this guy spend over the cost of a Carter muscle car pump to have that Mickey Mouse setup? Bet you a quarter it's still 5/16 line.

It's because there is a skill level between "afraid to open hood" and "able to change mechanical fuel pump". Since this only requires worm clamps, rubber hose and the ability to splice wires, that's why you see it.

When I lived in AZ, I saw a LOT of that hackage, usually in junkyards. I bought a '76 Dodge truck that had an electric pump wired directly to the battery with a toggle on the dash. Hmmm.... that should be fun in a serious accident. I did fix it before I sold it.

Shamefully, the population here becomes more mechanically-illiterate as we transition from an industrial to hemp-weaving-movie-director-fast-food-worker economy. Thus I'm seeing it here as well.

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I’ve seen it a lot where it’s because the gas tank was bad and the hard lines were gunked up so they threw in the cheapest fuel cell (or jug) that would fit in the trunk and they just ran a long cheap rubber hose from an electric pump to the carb. More often than not they didn’t even have a regulator and were relying on the float bowl to cutoff the flow mechanically. Guaranteed to fail but for the time it takes to find a buyer it’s guaranteed to start.
 
What's the fuel demand of this iron-headed, HP manifold-ed, ...
Agreed, and those aren't even HP manifolds, those are hte mid-late 70s manifolds. We can tell by the squarish chunks of material cast into them and the forward-pointing stud for the not-there heat stove.

I read somewhere that these manifolds don't flow that well even though the outlets on them are larger than the std log manifolds (they are about 2-1/4" vs the 2" of standard 60s logs) due to the way the #7 cylinder is tied in. The HPs and standard logs have the #7 joining in separately from 1-3-5, while these have them all coming in into a single line. I don't know if the effect on performance is true, but you can see it's there.

IMO this car is $2500 max - it has rust along the bottom of most every body panel, esp on the pass side. Front bumper is tweaked at pass-side TS, and looking at the interior thru the glass, I'd say it's rough. I wonder if this chromeo dipstick is calibrately correctly? fortunately the wagon-only stuff on the rear is decent (mostly, anyway). A guy could do worse, but I also think you could dump another $3500 in it and it wouldn't be worth $5000. Unless you really want a battered/tired wagon, better to spend more to get more.


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