1968 300 Rear Main Seal Leak

[mgm1986]

Fellow enthusiasts, looking for input from those who have done it before. I have been driving my 300 for probably a hundred or so miles now, just local back road running. I am very happy how well it runs and very surprised how much gas it burns cause I can't stay out of the secondaries!

What I don't love is the rear main seal is leaking. I can confirm it is not the oil pressure switch or the valve covers which leads me to the rear main seal. I have seen a few videos, read through the FSM and crawled under the car to inspect. I am not looking forward to this task but I also hate leaving oil everywhere I park. Although the undercarriage is mostly rust free being so coated in oil.

Remove the steering linkage to get the oil pan off (half the pan bolts aren't even screwed all the way), remove the two bolts holding the cap on and work out the old seal and replace with new.

Is it feasible to do this job without a lift laying under the car or am I going to need better access to do it the right way?

440BB, no idea if it's original to the car. Thanks in advance for your sage advice!

 

[commando1]

I know people who have rebuilt their engines lying on their back in February. Could I do it? Absolutely no way. For me the engine needs to be out of the car or up on the lift.
I suggest unbolting the engine mounts, raise the engine and pulling the entire pan off. I don't see the need to touch the steering gear at all.
After all is said and done, it might still leak, lol.

 

[3175375]

I have replaced the rear main seal in our 65 Ranchero. It wasn’t too bad. I botched the first seal, so I had to replace it and ended up boogering the oil pan gasket on removing it, so I had to replace that too. Nonetheless, with patience and attention to detail, I am confident that you can do this.

 

[mgm1986]

It seems like one of those jobs that is only difficult because you have to remove so much other stuff. And if it leaks you're pulling the oil pan off again.

I'll plan on getting it as high off the ground as I can and take a crack at it.

Thanks for the motivation

 

[mgm1986]

I know people who have rebuilt their engines lying on their back in February. Could I do it? Absolutely no way. For me the engine needs to be out of the car or up on the lift.
I suggest unbolting the engine mounts, raise the engine and pulling the entire pan off. I don't see the need to touch the steering gear at all.
After all is said and done, it might still leak, lol.

I will definitely remove the entire pan but I'm thinking the steering linkage is gonna need to get taken apart to get the pan off. If I could jack the engine high enough to get the pan off that would be awesome but I just did the motor mounts and it didn't look like an option.

 

[CBODY67]

You might check the Chrysler factory service manual to see about removing the oil pan "in car". Seems like there is something about manually turning the engine to get crankshaft counterweights out of the way?

Work safely!
CBODY67

 

[65Port]

My advice is to drive it some more and keep track of the leak amount. My 383 will leak a tiny bit (2-3 small drops) after a winter slumber then stop completely.. Seeing you have only driven 100 miles, maybe give it a little more time/mileage to see what you are up against. I've seen too many people go nuts replacing rear main seals and then... drip drip.. (as commando said above). You might get lucky but.. are you feeling lucky?

Good luck..