He took the rack off and filled the mounting holes with bolts and clear rtv.
The roof rack was included with the purchase and rode here in the rear compartment. Thank you very much for offering.
1972 Dodge Monaco wagon, my 1st C body Mopar!
- Thread starter BLIMP
- Start date
Wonderwagon
Well-Known Member
Forgot to include if your 3 row seat source comes up short, have seat and hardware
As I mentioned earlier after using the headlights for a bit, the relay began clicking and the lights were flashing on and off. A little research revealed that a corroded high beam switch could be causing the issue. So I swapped a new switch in yesterday and I haven't been able to recreate the problem since. This was the first time I've looked under the carpeting and it's fairly solid, some slight flaking, but not soft yet. It even looks better from the bottom side, thanks to the factory undercoating. I'd imagine most of the time that this would be the worst spot of the floor, so I'm in good spirits
Blimp. The deeper you dig the more I like your '72. I'd try to find a good RUST NUTRILIZER before you put down new carpeting tho'. Nice score Man, You should be very pleased. How fare off iz the paint booth? Jer
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Any recommendations? I have the same condition on my Polara.
71Polara383
Kid with ballcap
Yes I am having the same problem. Been hearing bad things about Por 15 and similar products.
I think all the bad mouthing Por-15 gets comes from the fact that most folks just slap in on right over the rust and wonder whats wrong when it pops off. No body thinks about the fact that first steel brushing it and then applying the nutrilizer Por-15 sells to kill what remains after the wire brush scrub and then applying Black or Silver or what ever other color Por-15 is selling now with a spung 1 1/2" brushto get an even coat after you stur it up as best you can and let it dry, The application and the metel underneath it will probably last longer then you will. I've chemicly striped rusty backing plates for ah disc conversion on a couple mopars that started life with drum /drum carz and I've kept in touch with the buyers over 25 yearz now and still get good reports every couple years. It's good stuff when you do the preperation AND application right IMHO, Jer
PontiacJim
Member
Agree. I used it on my '68 Lemans currently under construction and will use it on the areas needing attention on my '73 Fury. The key, as stated, it to get the loose rust/corrosion off, but it does not have to be perfect. The stuff is thin and flows like water. Follow the POR-15 instructions which is 2 thin coats AND you want to follow up with a POR-15 top coat to seal the POR-15 rust inhibitor base. I think if anything goes wrong, it is either with the prep or not putting the top coat on to seal the base.
I learned you have to apply the coats as instructed on the can within a certain time limit. If you don't then you want to give the POR-15 plenty of time for the solvents to evaporate, and I'm talking a couple weeks. If you apply the second coat later than recommended and before it has thoroughly evaporated the solvents out, my experience was that it will "craze" or crack on you. Same goes with a top coat color - and I tried various brands of enamel spray bomb as a top coat(as well as the POR top coat) and they all did the same thing until I found that if I let it thoroughly dry a couple weeks I had no issues(the summer I did this the heat/humidity was very high which may have been a contributing factor).
POR-15 is not inexpensive. I buy only what I need in the smaller size and then pour what I need of that into a small container so I don't waste it. You don't want to put any unused POR-15 back into your original as it will contaminate it and can cause it to go bad. Use a throw-away brush to apply. Use rubber gloves as it does not come off your skin easily and if it gets in your clothes, you might as well toss them. I actually store my POR-15 in my refrigerator so as to keep its shelf life longer.
I also used Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating to get inside the frame rails. I'll also be using it for some of the floor pan supports and any other hidden areas that are not readily accessible. Eastwood Internal Frame Coating 14oz Aerosol
I used to use the Rustoleum brand rusty primer, but they changed the formula. It used to have fish oil in it and you could smell it. Now it does not seem to have it and it doesn't work as well - thank you EPA regulations.
PontiacJim
Member
Another good rust remover is called "Naval Jelly." Some of you may remember this. They still sell it. I got some at my local Walmart and used it to free up pistons in an engine block that looked like it had been underwater for 20 years - heavy, thick, pitted bores that I was not sure I could save. I applied the Jelly thoroughly and heavily in each bore and let it dry out until the next weekend. It dries white and I could brush it off. Then I applied another coat. Did this for about 6 weeks or so each time breaking down the rust layer. Finally got the cylinders scraped down enough to good metal to knock out the pistons. The block cleaned up at .060" over and I was able to save it.
So you might want to try this on the floor rust. Brush it on and let it set. Then come back later and wire brush it and see what you have.
So you might want to try this on the floor rust. Brush it on and let it set. Then come back later and wire brush it and see what you have.
Hi I do, but plans are to reinstall it. Are you searching for one?
A couple days ago the weather finally was nice enough to spend some time out in the driveway under the wagon.
Spent some time last week installing a power seat base. It was on a set of burgundy seats that I found on Facebook. Was told they were out of a 75 Monaco coupe, which makes sense because there's a button on the side of the seat that allows them to fold forward.
It was really easy to pull the seat out of this wagon, the nuts spun right off the seat studs. Gotta love a car from the Pacific Northwest!
Was hoping to find a silver coin or something cool, but the only things interesting was a Chuckie Cheese token from the 80s and this label on the carpeting.
Swapping the bases was as simple as removing 4 bolts.
The trim covering the switch was different, but fortunately I found one earlier on a junkyard trip.
livininharrow
Senior Member
I like that wagon a lot. my 66 fury wagon has the factory undercoating. I just cleaned the underneath with a brush and used rubberized undercoating in spray bombs to make look new again.
TxDon
Well-Known Member
Nice wagon! I'm on board for the rest of the project.
Not sure but I think B and E bodies used the same tracks. Might be worth keeping or putting on EBay.
I'm pretty sure that the 50/50 seats like the ones in your wagon used the same seat tracks that the bucket seat C Body's used.
If I was going to guess, I'd say you were correct. But I've been suprised before when finding a different part in a situation where something should have been shared.
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