Blasphemy

but how is the thing bolted to the other thing? welded together ?

i.e. how are the frame rails attached to the front end ***'y ?

Interesting idea. But to answer your question Saylor it appear that the crown vic subframe is aluminum, so it would have to be bolted to the cleaned up C-body subframe. From the pic of the crown vic subframe it looks like it bolts to the subframe from below.....4 bolts?
 
Interesting idea. But to answer your question Saylor it appear that the crown vic subframe is aluminum, so it would have to be bolted to the cleaned up C-body subframe. From the pic of the crown vic subframe it looks like it bolts to the subframe from below.....4 bolts?
Straight up through the bottom 2 in front, 2 in rear that's why the truck guys like them so much.
On a Ford it gets rid of that God awful twin I beam
On a Dodge it gets rid of solid drop axel and leaf springs.
On a GM it gets rid of a horrible Ackerman geometry.
 
IMHO, this looks like a great swap for a truck. People have already done the swap and there's lots of info out there.

For the Fury, I'm not seeing as it would be a great swap. From looking at the pics, this isn't a simple bolt in. I'd say you are looking at doing some fabricating and welding. Getting the suspension to bolt up is one thing, getting it in there right is going to take some work and some thought.

If you are capable of doing that type of work, go for it... But I'd say that the more prudent route is to go ahead with your disc brake update. That is something that has been done by folks here with great success.

To me, it's a matter of getting the car done with a minimum of time and fuss. A few hours work and you are back on the road. Doing the suspension swap will involve pulling the stub frame (and engine etc.), doing some fabricating and then putting it all back together. It's not impossible, and to a lot of guys, it's not something outside their skills and amount of time available.

It's your choice and you know what you are capable of. Personally, I'd go for the disc brake swap and be done with it. You could be out driving the car and enjoying it rather than working on it.

BTW... W. Monroe.... NY state?
 
Removing a section of the C-body stub frame and splicing in a Ford sub-frame looks pretty complex requiring frame tables, lasers, etc to get it right. That's no backyard job, despite the pictures of people doing it there.

1.jpg
 
Removing a section of the C-body stub frame and splicing in a Ford sub-frame looks pretty complex requiring frame tables, lasers, etc to get it right. That's no backyard job, despite the pictures of people doing it there.

1.jpg
looks like a great setup!
 
That 'Vic front end is the newer custom version of what everyone did with mustang 2(P/S pinto) front ends for decades. It does not make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside, but neither did the M2 conversions... not that I would never do it, just that it would have to be a real builder project for me to consider it.

AFAIAC, once you cut this deep, the car is ruined if you don't finish it and keep it up. Few folks would be willing to take on somebody else's half done mess for anything but parts.
 
I think he welded a piece of the crown Vic frame to his frame to keep his "stock" bolt holes. If I go this route I'll do it a little different. I'm just worried about the engine height with the big block.. wondering how it will affect the clearance of the steering rod and if I'll have to upgrade to a higher pressure power steering pump
 
IMHO, this looks like a great swap for a truck. People have already done the swap and there's lots of info out there.

For the Fury, I'm not seeing as it would be a great swap. From looking at the pics, this isn't a simple bolt in. I'd say you are looking at doing some fabricating and welding. Getting the suspension to bolt up is one thing, getting it in there right is going to take some work and some thought.

If you are capable of doing that type of work, go for it... But I'd say that the more prudent route is to go ahead with your disc brake update. That is something that has been done by folks here with great success.

To me, it's a matter of getting the car done with a minimum of time and fuss. A few hours work and you are back on the road. Doing the suspension swap will involve pulling the stub frame (and engine etc.), doing some fabricating and then putting it all back together. It's not impossible, and to a lot of guys, it's not something outside their skills and amount of time available.

It's your choice and you know what you are capable of. Personally, I'd go for the disc brake swap and be done with it. You could be out driving the car and enjoying it rather than working on it.

BTW... W. Monroe.... NY state?
West Monroe, La. And as I say, I'm not sold on it yet. I'm putting my subframe, engine and trans to do work on them and I have to do a total rebuild of my suspension because it's in bad shape.
 
Well for a rack and pinion steering system you will for sure have to upgrade your steering pump. Not sure what the GPM and Hyd pressures that are needed for a R/P steering, but will be higher then the old dinosaur system.
 
Well for a rack and pinion steering system you will for sure have to upgrade your steering pump. Not sure what the GPM and Hyd pressures that are needed for a R/P steering, but will be higher then the old dinosaur system.
I kinda figured. IF, I repeat IF I try this I'll prolly go electric on the hydraulics. I'm leaning towards a kit from Firmfeel for my fury and the crown Vic suspension on the front of my LeMans, and put in the IRS from a T-Bird...
 
I kinda figured. IF, I repeat IF I try this I'll prolly go electric on the hydraulics. I'm leaning towards a kit from Firmfeel for my fury and the crown Vic suspension on the front of my LeMans, and put in the IRS from a T-Bird...
Starting to sound like a lottery winner here...:poke:
 
$300 is nothing, compared to the ~$3000 A-body guys pay for a coil-over w/ rack conversion kit. Re molesting, they hack off the frame rails and weld the new assembly in. But, $300 is risky for a perhaps uncertain conversion. Personally, I am happy w/ torsion bars, as Porsches used them and it keeps the weight low. A Pitman gearbox is not necessarily bad, as my 1985 M-B uses one and it was known for good handling (also has IRS). The biggest concern is with the steering. If you don't get parts in the correct geometry, you can get severe "bump steer" which can make the car almost undrivable. Wheeler Dealers did an episode where they bought a hot rod with that problem and fixed it. Of course, also good if turning the steering wheel clockwise makes the car turn right and also that the outside wheel turns less than the inside so it doesn't drag and squeal.
 
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