Charging Issue

[68Nwprt]

OK... On my 68 Newport, I put the multi meter on my battery with the car running last week after I hooked up a new voltage meter and discovered that it was reading only around 12.4 volts with engine running,the exact same measurement as with the engine off. I am under the impression I should have somewhere in the neighborhood of 13.6. with engine running, correct? So..here is what I have done so far with no success.Checked the multi meter on my truck and it read 14.2 just as it should have so I believe the meter is good.Cleaned bulk head connector Checked for power to the alt, has 12.5, what the battery reads when fully charged.Checked continuity between field on the voltage reg and the field on the alternator. Checked OK. Cleaned battery connections. Checked fuses. New body ground strap. I was not sure how to check voltage reg and didn't come up with much on google so I just replaced the reg. with a new one. No change. Had the alternator checked at Auto Zone, tested FAILED but they didn't seem to have the proper test as there machine did not show the correct wiring set up. So I decided to replace the alternator anyway, with no change.This morning I brought the new Alternator to O'Rieleys and it tested good.
They suggested I have the battery checked...so I did and it FAILED. Now I also have a brand new battery. No Change ,still 12.4 when running and I don't know what else to check. So now it's time for some help.
Any suggestions as to what I can test now? Thanks in advance.

 

[Yatzee]

I've come across this situation on many posts on many forums. Do you need the car in concourse condition? Do you open the hood to the public when parked? Do you drive the car a lot say like a daily driver? Do you need to impress people at cruise nights by it's authenticity? If you answer "no" to most of these questions then throw that old atiquated crap away and step into the "now". There are so many options out there for reliable, easy to wire, internally regulated alternators I can't understand why some people get caught in the yester-years. Repair by parts substitution is a costly venture and when people like Powermaster etc. make high output alternators that resemble the originals to a "T" with internal regulation, why not? There's even a company that makes, what looks exactly like an outboard regulator, except it's an empty box and serves only as a junction. Welcome to the future or just keep dealing with yesterdays issues again and again.

 

[thrashingcows]

I do agree with Yatzee to a point. But I do like to keep the parts easily repaired from most auto parts box stores. If my older voltage regulator goes out on the road, I can just pop down and get a new one, no waiting for powermaster to get me a new unit 3 days later. So yes there are advantages, and disadvantages to both. ;)

What style of voltage regulator are you running? The old 1970 and older, mechanical VR, or the newer 70 and up unit?

 

[68Nwprt]

I've come across this situation on many posts on many forums. Do you need the car in concourse condition? Do you open the hood to the public when parked? Do you drive the car a lot say like a daily driver? Do you need to impress people at cruise nights by it's authenticity? If you answer "no" to most of these questions then throw that old atiquated crap away and step into the "now". There are so many options out there for reliable, easy to wire, internally regulated alternators I can't understand why some people get caught in the yester-years. Repair by parts substitution is a costly venture and when people like Powermaster etc. make high output alternators that resemble the originals to a "T" with internal regulation, why not? There's even a company that makes, what looks exactly like an outboard regulator, except it's an empty box and serves only as a junction. Welcome to the future or just keep dealing with yesterdays issues again and again.

Thanks, not so much into concourse restoration. Just want it to charge the battery and be dependable. I'll check the internal reg. alternator if it's an option. Electrical is not my area of expertise. This is why I am asking for help.

 

[68Nwprt]

I do agree with Yatzee to a point. But I do like to keep the parts easily repaired from most auto parts box stores. If my older voltage regulator goes out on the road, I can just pop down and get a new one, no waiting for powermaster to get me a new unit 3 days later. So yes there are advantages, and disadvantages to both. ;)

What style of voltage regulator are you running? The old 1970 and older, mechanical VR, or the newer 70 and up unit?

Solid state voltage regulator.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121703672807?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[Yatzee]

Let me enlighten you on replacement parts procurement. My 130 amp alternator cost me $60 at an auto recyclers so I got two for $100 bucks. Don't need a VR so that will never be an issue and if it was they're $22 brand new with new brushes( and changes via 4 screws) Output is always 14.2 volts even at 650 idle with many accessories on. Uses a standard v-belt size and incorporates dual internal cooling fans right at the windings. How much easier and cheaper can it get for something engineered with today's technology and reliability. Vehicles charging systems today just don't break down like they use to 20 years ago and if they did buyers wouldn't put up with it.

 

[Yatzee]

The real difference between high output alternators and older low output units is that the big charge wire from the alternator goes directly to the battery positive terminal instead of weaving through a maze of insufficient wiring that couldn't possibly carry the load. This makes the battery itself a buffer for high charge and load demands without jeprodizing the vehicles wiring system. Just take a peak at that new vehicle sitting in your driveway, specifically the battery. Modern technology has really given us unprecidented reliability ( unless you own a 2015 Lada ) at the turn of the key.

 

[Big_John]

To get back to the original post....

Is that at idle? Does it drop off when you turn on the headlights?

When you bring the idle speed up, does the voltage come up or stay at 12.5?

Do you have a mechanical regulator?

Before you start changing, let's figure out if you really have a problem.

 

[68Nwprt]

To get back to the original post....

Is that at idle? Does it drop off when you turn on the headlights?

When you bring the idle speed up, does the voltage come up or stay at 12.5?

Do you have a mechanical regulator?

Before you start changing, let's figure out if you really have a problem.

Thanks.
12.6 @ idle.
12.3 w/headlights.
12.5 @ 2000 rpm
solid state VR.

 

[Big_John]

Ok... I think it's the regulator. If it was a mechanical, you can adjust it, but it is what it is with the electronic unit.

Since you've already had the alternator tested, new battery and covered all the bases with checking wiring etc., I'd say it's a safe bet that it's the regulator.

 

[Big_John]

Wait a minute.... I just reread the original post...

"New" voltmeter? Is it a good one? Does it check the battery at 12 volts when not running?

I ask because I've seen guys pull their hair out when the issue is the voltmeter isn't accurate.

 

[68Nwprt]

Wait a minute.... I just reread the original post...

"New" voltmeter? Is it a good one? Does it check the battery at 12 volts when not running?

I ask because I've seen guys pull their hair out when the issue is the voltmeter isn't accurate.

Actually it reads a bit high.It was a low cost set of gauges I purchased just before the initial start of my engine after the rebuild so I would have an oil pressure and temp gauge. Volt meter reads 12v with the ignition on, and around 13v w/ the engine running. Multi meter reads around 12.4-12.6 engine running @ idle. 12.4 at battery with engine off.

 

[thrashingcows]

I had one of those solid state VR on my 68 T/C wagon. I ditched it because of the fact that it couldn't keep up with my electrical system, even after running a heavy gauge wire from the alt stud to the battery. I now run a dual field 65 amp alternator, and a 70's style VR. Very easy to wire up BTW.

 

[65Fury440]

Solid state voltage regulator.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121703672807?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

When you replaced the alternator, were there any extra connections? Sometimes there is an extra field wire that need to be grounded.
There is a myriad of connections that could be a problem, or maybe your regulator. I have a solid state on my cars that are good, we could check it out if you can get your car over to my place. I'll PM you my number.

 

[Wildaugust]

>

I had one of those solid state VR on my 68 T/C wagon. I ditched it because of the fact that it couldn't keep up with my electrical system, even after running a heavy gauge wire from the alt stud to the battery. I now run a dual field 65 amp alternator, and a 70's style VR. Very easy to wire up BTW.

Copied from another thread on FCBO.

 

[68Nwprt]

When you replaced the alternator, were there any extra connections? Sometimes there is an extra field wire that need to be grounded.
There is a myriad of connections that could be a problem, or maybe your regulator. I have a solid state on my cars that are good, we could check it out if you can get your car over to my place. I'll PM you my number.

No extra wires. Thanks for that offer. PM sent.
Anyone have the same set up as me,(50 amp alternator / solid state VR) that can tell me what voltage they are getting @ the battery when running?

 

[68Nwprt]

I had one of those solid state VR on my 68 T/C wagon. I ditched it because of the fact that it couldn't keep up with my electrical system, even after running a heavy gauge wire from the alt stud to the battery. I now run a dual field 65 amp alternator, and a 70's style VR. Very easy to wire up BTW.

I think this will be the route I will be going, but I would still like to get to the root of the problem.

 

[pgadler]

I think this will be the route I will be going. Thanks.

Just went this route myself last week. 78 amp alterantor and this very regulator. Major improvement over original alternator and VR, especially at idle/low rpm.

 

[Yatzee]

As stated earlier voltage reads 14.2 at 650 r.p.m. with headlights, heater and brake pedal pushed. Those are the high load hogs that tax an alternator to the point that your running on the battery because the alt can't keep up. Imagine what the ignition system sees in voltage. Mine is a dual stage, bolt right in, wire right up easy 3G alternator but there are dozens out there that perform the same. Would you rather mess with a hornets nest of wiring or just three cause this is what the future looks like:

 

[68Nwprt]

Have new 65 amp square back alternator and a second new VR and now charging at 13.8-14.2 Volts. Below is a link from FABO, where 67dart273 was extremely helpful in trouble shooting my charging problem. He is a very nice guy, that knows how to get to the root of the problem quickly, with a no nonsense, systematic approach. Many thanks to 67dart273. Also thanks to all here on FCBO who made an effort to help.
:sSig_thanks:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=328422