Convertible Top Operation

[mgm1986]

Hope everyone had a nice Thanksgiving!

Looking for some advice. I replaced the Hydraulic cylinders for my convertible top. The old ones were both leaking and the system was clearly run dry. After plumbing the new cylinders and filling with ATF I bled the system several times then reinstalled the cylinders to their mounts. No more leaks!

I am not optimistic however the pump is working as it should. It goes down fine and it does go up but MUCH slower than it should.

Is it possible this is just not yet fully bled? (how many up/down cycles to bleed?)
Would low voltage make it run slowly? (The wiring in the car is in shambles, I will check voltage)
Is it possible the pump is going out? (possibly from being run dry too many times)

Thanks all!

 

[Big_John]

Is the car running? Usually, everyone with a convertible will tell you the top goes up much faster with the engine running. That means more voltage so it makes sense that if you have wiring problems, the voltage drop will hurt.

Your pump might need some attention too. They used the same pump into the 80's and probably in other car makes, so they aren't hard to find another if needed. I've never had one apart, but they look pretty simple, so here's a link to reworking the pump. Convertible Top Pump Disassembly

FWIW, I added a relay to to the top wiring at the pump and my top goes much faster, but even with the stock wiring, it still shouldn't be really slow.

 

[413]

Yes when voltage is down amps are up, which is hard on the pump motor, switch and every connection In the system. Run the engine @1200 rpm when operating the convert top and power windows. Your electrical system will thank you.

 

[mgm1986]

Thank you for the feedback! I did have the rpms up but I didn't check the voltage. That'll be next. If it still gives me problems after confirming voltage I'll try the rebuild route, looks simple enough. I also love the idea of adding a relay after I sort out the issue at hand.

 

[volksworld]

on my 68 fury there is an extra red wire attached to the ammeter post that goes back to a circuit breaker buried in the drivers doorpost behind the kickpanel...this is where the top circuit gets its power from, not the fuse box

 

[mgm1986]

Thank you again for the info. I pulled the pump out and ripped it apart. Nasty stuff inside.

After thoroughly cleaning the pump side I decided to pull the armature out to inspect it. Taking it apart was easy, putting it back together required some creative use of duct tape and fishing line. My recommendation for those of you who may decide to take your pump apart to clean it, leave the motor side alone! Even if it is the motor, it doesn't appear to be serviceable. I did clean up the copper where the brushes ride but I doubt that made much difference.

Everything is back together with new lines and fresh fluid and it seems to be working well. Of course I think the dash switch itself may be going bad but that's a job for another day. Probably just needs to be cleaned up.