The worm gear style hose clamps could be considered the "day three+" change which was usually made over time. Back then, nobody really trusted those "spring clamps", which were generally suspected of losing tension over time. Hence, most mechanics replaced them with the worm gear screw clamps, so they KNEW they would be tight and could be adjusted later on, if needed.
On either style, there is a correct way to position both the hose and clamp for best results. Generally, just enough overlap of the hose what it is pushed onto, but enough to allow for the width of the clamp to be right at the bulge in the connector, with the clamp positioned right at the end of that bulge. This puts a bit more closing force, due to the curve of the bulge, on the hose and also keeps fluid or vac from being between the bulge and the clamp. I saw that demostrated in a GM Tech Training book years ago. Until that time, it seemed that to push the hose right up to the end of the item it was being put onto, then clamp somewhere on the flat area was better, but can also take more hose to make happen and not completely secure the hose with the clamp. Do not put the clamp on the bulge, either.
Just some obervations and experiences,
CBODY67
