Dodge truck Parking/ interior light issue

pmschmitt

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There is no burning of wires or heat, here is what's happening.

Pull out headlight switch, running lights, tail lights, and dash lights only come on momentarily before the stop ( groove to have just the running lights on). If I pull all the way to the stop the lights go off. If I pull the head light switch all the way out the headlights come on, but no running lights or dash light/ tail lights.

I have replaced the switch with a borg Warner life time warranty switch.... problem still occurs. No burnt contacts.

I have read this same problem on other forums, but no solution. Anybody have a headlight circuit diagram that uses relays and another circuit for the running lights? Don't know what else could be causing this.

Thanks
 
Check your grounds. Not a bad idea to replace with new. If you have modified the car & added electronics items not a bad idea to add a good ground from cylinder head to frame.
 
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No worries.
1983 dodge d350 Royal SE crew cab dually prospector. Other forums have said the problem is the draw of the running lights is too high due to the clearance lights on the cab, tailgate lights etc. I have the FSM here is the diagram.
 
Other forums have said the problem is the draw of the running lights is too high due to the clearance lights on the cab, tailgate lights etc. I have the FSM here is the diagram.
That makes some sense. The circuit breaker is seeing too much current and doing its job.

I've done headlight relays on my car and made up this wiring diagram.

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I reread your OP. Am I understanding correctly that as you pull the switch out the lights come on, but once you get to position for the parking lights they go out. Then if you pull them on the headlight setting there are no parking lights there also.

If so, I would pick up another switch. You said it has a lifetime warranty. If this doesn't fix it you've got some trouble shooting ahead of you.

I don't mean to sound like I'm patronizing you by saying this, but you need to start at one end(battery > various lights) and methodically work toward the other. You know for an instance you have power and you know that the switch is in common to everything. Is there anyway that you can back probe the connector when the switch is hooked up to verify that there is power coming out of it? A test light is going to be your best friend in finding this issue. If you've got power coming out of the back of the switch follow the wiring diagram to see if there is another point in the wiring that is common to all of these different lights.

If you've got power coming out of the swith then you need to find a point in between the switch and the light(s) to check for power again. Have you checked the fuse? Check the fuse with a ohm meter.
 
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Ok here is the update on the truck head light issue. I took out the switch I just installed and checked it with an ohm meter. The ohm meter would only go to 0 momentarily when the knob was partially pulled out. It would not go to 0 ( stayed at 1) when it was in its correct stop location.

I went to the parts store and replaced it ( lifetime warranty) and checked it before installing. 2nd new switch had the same result with the ohm meter.

There is 12 V power going to switch but it seems as though there is incorrect contact within the switch. No power leaving switch to running lights tail lights or interior lights at correct first stop location or when headlights are on.

What is next step?
 
Figured it out. Dodge trucks have 2 power sources for headlight switch. One of the power sources was dead. Got it straightened out.
 
know this is an old thread. My 1976 Chrysler Newport is exactly what is happening to me. Switch is the same. Went through three switches problem still persisted. Which circuit is the second power source?
 
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