Electrical issue while alternator charging

[josehf34]

I've been dealing with a rough idle, low vacuum and poor performance issue with my '74 Fury

I was suspecting about an electrical issue and I'm starting thinking I'm right. I've discovered that If I disconnect the alternator the car will idle better, will have better vacuum signal at idle and throttle response is better but just after connect the field wires and the alternator starts charging the idle goes rough, vacuum signal decreases 3" and I start hearing a "click click click" sound at the distributor (checked for wires, distributor cap and everything is fine)

My alternator is an aftermarket 85A unit with remote sensing voltaje regulator, I got it checked by a store and they said that is charging perfectly. I don't know if has something to do but the BAT terminal is directly connected to battery

 

[65sporty]

Does the idle drop when the alt is connected? The load it charging will lower the idle. What happens if you raise the idle some? What did it run like with the stock alt?

 

[lotrucker]

i had charging problem also. checked alt. ok changed VR & still had same problem. checked all wiring looked good too. i went with a 1 wire alt & elimated the VR & worked great. charging perfect.

 

[josehf34]

Does the idle drop when the alt is connected? The load it charging will lower the idle. What happens if you raise the idle some? What did it run like with the stock alt?

The stock alternator was junk. I know that with alternator charging I can expect a drop in RPM but is not just a drop, is a really big difference in overall performance, vacuum signal is 3" lower than without alt and doesn't matters if I raise the idle a bit, continue to be rough and exhaust sounds like the engine is missfiring, also the "clic clic clic" sound at the distributor is really weird

i had charging problem also. checked alt. ok changed VR & still had same problem. checked all wiring looked good too. i went with a 1 wire alt & elimated the VR & worked great. charging perfect.

This alternator can be wired to work as "1-wire" unit, already tried it but nothing changed

 

[65sporty]

What kind of ignition are you running? Mopar electronic? Something else?

 

[lotrucker]

What kind of ignition are you running? Mopar electronic? Something else?

i'm running after market distributor & 6al box

 

[josehf34]

What kind of ignition are you running? Mopar electronic? Something else?

I'm running GM HEI 4 pin module with stock mopar distributor

This weekend spent a lot of time on the electrical shop trying to figure out what's going on. They give me other CS130 unit for testing and with that alternator the car works fine but for some reason the alternator regulator keeps blowing, in five hours of work the alternator burnt 2 regulators

Any idea what should I check? The electrical guy put a direct ground wire from alternator to car body and changed the wire that goes from alternator to battery

 

[65sporty]

in five hours of work the alternator burnt 2 regulators

Any idea what should I check? The electrical guy put a direct ground wire from alternator to car body and changed the wire that goes from alternator to battery

Are these a good quality parts?

 

[BJS racing]

i'm running after market distributor & 6al box

Where do you have the msd box grounded? What does it run like at 2500-3000 rpm? What do you have for total timing? What is idle timing?

 

[70bigblockdodge]

You guys has 2 different things going on, hard to follow.

 

[josehf34]

Are these a good quality parts?

I don't have idea but the alternator is a Delco CS130

Today took the car to a different electric guy, he repaired the CS130 (burnt voltage regulator again) and told me that my battery was almost completely discharged and that can be the reason for constantly burnt regulators.

Now the car idles better but there's still a drop of about 150 RPM when the alternator is charging, also there's something funny with the alternator operation, after some time driving I can see the idiot light coming on and off just like if the alternator where cycling like an A/C compressor, is that normal?

 

[65sporty]

I don't have idea but the alternator is a Delco CS130

It's built by Delco but is it a reman by Delco or some other company?

Today took the car to a different electric guy, he told me that my battery was almost completely discharged and that can be the reason for constantly burnt regulators.

If the battery is junk it will overwork the alt.

Now the car idles better but there's still a drop of about 150 RPM when the alternator is charging, also there's something funny with the alternator operation, after some time driving I can see the idiot light coming on and off just like if the alternator where cycling like an A/C compressor, is that normal?

No that's not normal, do you have a voltmeter to check the voltage at the alt when it's acting up? When the light is on it's not charging.

 

[BJS racing]

I don't have idea but the alternator is a Delco CS130

Today took the car to a different electric guy, he repaired the CS130 (burnt voltage regulator again) and told me that my battery was almost completely discharged and that can be the reason for constantly burnt regulators.

Um are you running a resistor on the L wire from the regulator?

http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/30705.pdf
http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/30707.pdf


Do not trust the charge light to provide a good enough resistance. That is likely why you are burning up regulators so quick.

 

[josehf34]

Um are you running a resistor on the L wire from the regulator?

http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/30705.pdf
http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/30707.pdf


Do not trust the charge light to provide a good enough resistance. That is likely why you are burning up regulators so quick.

It's built by Delco but is it a reman by Delco or some other company?

If the battery is junk it will overwork the alt.

No that's not normal, do you have a voltmeter to check the voltage at the alt when it's acting up? When the light is on it's not charging.

I'm not really sure if the alternator is a "generic" one or is a true Delco Unit. The car is again with the electric guy, looks like something is just wrong with that alternator but he's still trying to figure out what's going on.

I'm not running a resistor only the idiot light, what resistor should I use between the light and alternator?

Usually how many rpm the engine will drop once the alternator is charging?

 

[BJS racing]

You would use something as close to an 82 ohm 5 watt resistor as you can. Most places will have a 100 ohm 10 watt resistor and that seems to work fine. Engine RPM should drop around 25-50 from charging to not charging unless there is a drag issue or the alternator is trying to output too much. Also make sure the case of the alternator is grounded.