Hard Starting When Warm

68Nwprt

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I let my 68 Newport run for fifteen to twenty minutes yesterday in the driveway and then shut if off. When I tried to restart it, I had to depress accelerator to the floor before it would catch. Typically it will fire up quickly after two pumps when cold. So what would cause the hard starting when hot. Thanks in advance.
 
It's this so called thing called reformulated gas w/alcohol. Learn to live with it or learn how to live and work around the problem. Have you ever taken 2 bottle caps, 1 with gas and 1 with something like Lacquer Thinner and set them both on fire to see how quick and clean 1 burns over the other? Thought so.
 
I let my 68 Newport run for fifteen to twenty minutes yesterday in the driveway and then shut if off. When I tried to restart it, I had to depress accelerator to the floor before it would catch. Typically it will fire up quickly after two pumps when cold. So what would cause the hard starting when hot. Thanks in advance.

You may be experiencing "percolation". Which simply means that the fuel in the supply line and carburetor are boiling off due to engine heat. Which is basically fuel starvation.

On hot restarts, I depress the accelerator 1/4 to 1/3 of the way down until the engine fires, then let off the pedal and let the rpm drop.

Usually works most of the time. If your symptom persists, you may want to consider a spacer for the carburetor.

Hope the input helps.

John
 
All you guys need to check your fuel pump pushrods.
Seriously though, this was actually one of the main symptoms. Your ethanol laden fuel does perc at lower temps and if you have a shortened rod it's not pumping as much fuel to make up for that.
 
Thay is the trick I use to start mine. Also 2 years ago new push rod as mine was way short. Also this winter blocked off crossover running so much better!!
 
All you guys need to check your fuel pump pushrods.
Seriously though, this was actually one of the main symptoms. Your ethanol laden fuel does perc at lower temps and if you have a shortened rod it's not pumping as much fuel to make up for that.

Thanks Matt, I checked the fuel pump rod when I installed the pump. It was the correct length.
 
Start with the easy fix, try a carb. spacer.

No room for a spacer. The stock air cleaner is too close to the hood as it is,but thanks for the suggestion. I'll start with some non ethanol fuel and see what the results are.
 
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I let my 68 Newport run for fifteen to twenty minutes yesterday in the driveway and then shut if off. When I tried to restart it, I had to depress accelerator to the floor before it would catch. Typically it will fire up quickly after two pumps when cold. So what would cause the hard starting when hot. Thanks in advance.

There's been a lot said about the newer fuels in regards to the effect it has upon older machinery - poor ignition, high evaporation, detramental to older rubber and neoprene parts etc, etc, etc. It's not going away but to prove weather the fuel is the issue, fill your vehicle with Shell V-Power. The top grade in their fuel contains no ethanol, or so it is here in Canada. You'll have to read the sticker on the front of the pump to be certain. Here's a statement from Shell:

Is Shell V-Power NiTRO+ premium gasoline safe for all vehicles?
  • Shell V-Power NiTRO+ is effective in all gasoline-powered engines found in conventional, modern and hybrid vehicles as well as motorcycles, snowmobiles, and leisure marine vehicles.
  • Shell V-Power NiTRO+ premium gasoline in Canada does not contain ethanol.
We hear a lot about how much the members of this forum love their cars and want to protect the engine from gunk, knock and hard starting. Question is, just how much do you care for your power plant and what are you willing to invest?
 
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It's sounds like the fuel is boiled out of the carb as has been said.

Check the manifold heat valve for free operation. If that's stuck closed, it will heat the intake. You can also think about blocking the crossover.

You could also install an electric fuel pump. There was a thread here a while ago on a timed relay for the pump that would fill the float bowl when you turned the key and shut off a few seconds later. My car is going to get that mod one of these days.

simple electric fuel pump wiring
 
I am not looking to dispute what others have stated about modern fuels or pick a fight.

I only know that I have not experienced any of the issues previously discussed in other threads.

I have three Gravely walk behind tractors that can sit for months with fuel in the tanks. They all start and run fine. They get a shot of stabilizer if I remember it. Most of the time I don't.

The Newps get ethanol free premium all the time. Stabilizer and a full tank for winter storage.

Maybe I'm just lucky.

John
 
I am not looking to dispute what others have stated about modern fuels or pick a fight.

I only know that I have not experienced any of the issues previously discussed in other threads.

I have three Gravely walk behind tractors that can sit for months with fuel in the tanks. They all start and run fine. They get a shot of stabilizer if I remember it. Most of the time I don't.

The Newps get ethanol free premium all the time. Stabilizer and a full tank for winter storage.

Maybe I'm just lucky.

John
Don't get me wrong on this but there's a big difference from fuel that's gravity fed and fuel that's pumped from 14 feet at the back of the car only to sit in a hot-soak environment for an hour or two. The gravity feed will still feed, the standing fuel is bound to evaporate somewhere especially when the surroundings are 170 degrees.
 
if you have a glass fuel filter up in the engine compartment, throw that in the trash, then go to vatozone, and buy a long piece of brake line off the rack in the back. then run that line from your FP to the carb, using as little rubber hose as possible for the in between connections.

you need a felpro 1214 valley pan it has blocked off heat risers, but unless you already planned to take the intake off, that's a bunch of work.

but its not even hot outside yet, and if you have heat issues, it could be worth it.

make sure your fuel line path is far away from the exhaust header / manifold collector.

run your car to temp then shut it off and listen - see if u can hear fuel in the carb boiling or hissing, etc.

try not to die -

- saylor
 
Hi 68, good to see you here again. Next time you get it hot, pop the air cleaner off and see if you are getting a pump shot out of your discharge nozzles in your carb. See if your fighting a flooded situation, or a starved carb.

It takes a lot of evaporation to empty a float bowl, seems like it wouldn't be hot enough yet for that, but who knows, it's hot under the hood.

The Shell up on Deltona at Cortez sells non ethanol gas, I run it in my old stuff, performs so much better.

Looking forward to crossing paths with you at some point! -Doug
 
Thanks Doug, that was my next plan, to see if it is actually getting a shot of fuel. I report back soon.
 
I've got the same issue with my 73 Imperial. I looked down the carb and found the secondaries' leaking fuel into engine causing a flooding condition. I tried and tried to adjust the fuel level in the rear fuel bowl to no avail. Tightened all the screws etc.
I think i read somewhere about something warping and leaking fuel. The screws that hold the bottom flange on are tight but they still show wet when this happens.
Edelbrock here I come!
 
I've got the same issue with my 73 Imperial. I looked down the carb and found the secondaries' leaking fuel into engine causing a flooding condition. I tried and tried to adjust the fuel level in the rear fuel bowl to no avail. Tightened all the screws etc.
I think i read somewhere about something warping and leaking fuel. The screws that hold the bottom flange on are tight but they still show wet when this happens.
Edelbrock here I come!

I bought one of these factory refurbished Demons for my 63. It works flawlessly, can't say enough good about it.

Factory Refurbished Street Demon 1900 625CFM 4bbl Carb
 
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