1972 fury I ordered 2809041 cable it said it would fit a AC car. It seems to me my cable is about 1 or 2 inches short no matter how I route it. It enters the interior far right on the firewall. I’ll post photos in the morning but am I messing something?
Heater cable routed wrong or just short?
- Thread starter MoparGabe
- Start date
On our '72 Newport Royal, the Chrysler service manager explained the heater water valve cable routing, which is different than prior body series cars. He noted that the cable was a two-piece cable. This was needed as there was now an a/c compressor switch in the works. I had noticed that when the a/c switch was "OFF", the a/c compressor still ran.
His explanation was, which I found in Chrysler service literature, that when "OFF", nothing was really "OFF". The fan ran on a very slow speed and the compressor still ran. In "OFF", the vac to the vent system actuators was in the "no vacuum" mode, which meant air to the floor and defroster ducts. That kept the windshield from fogging quite so badly when the defroster was turned on on cold mornings, from the initial rush of moisture-laden air. I accepted that, but still didn't like the compressor running all of the time. Obvious drains on engine power and fuel economy, to me. Which made the lower power of the very low CR 400 2bbl worse.
I had noticed a click when the heat lever got to about 1/2 way to hot. THAT was the compressor switch. Seems there is a shorter cable from the control lever, to an intermediary relay bracket, and then the 2nd cable continues on to the water valve? Seems like I verified that in the '72 parts book illustrations, back then?
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
His explanation was, which I found in Chrysler service literature, that when "OFF", nothing was really "OFF". The fan ran on a very slow speed and the compressor still ran. In "OFF", the vac to the vent system actuators was in the "no vacuum" mode, which meant air to the floor and defroster ducts. That kept the windshield from fogging quite so badly when the defroster was turned on on cold mornings, from the initial rush of moisture-laden air. I accepted that, but still didn't like the compressor running all of the time. Obvious drains on engine power and fuel economy, to me. Which made the lower power of the very low CR 400 2bbl worse.
I had noticed a click when the heat lever got to about 1/2 way to hot. THAT was the compressor switch. Seems there is a shorter cable from the control lever, to an intermediary relay bracket, and then the 2nd cable continues on to the water valve? Seems like I verified that in the '72 parts book illustrations, back then?
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
I see, this bring into light my other problem the previous owner seems they didn’t like that the blower was always running either so they hacked up the ac/heat harness. The cable I took out was also a one piece so maybe they swaped that out, I also saw somewhere that the heater control valve on 72 was plastic but mine is a metal one.
The earlier vacuum-modulated water valves were plastic, although the replacement industry had some metal versions. The cable-operated valves were all metal.
What I did on our '72 was to move the heat lever just past the click and reset the water valve to closed, with the heat lever in that position. Worked well, just looked funny. But you could reset the level to cold with just a bit of a pull. Then reset as needed.
CBODY67
What I did on our '72 was to move the heat lever just past the click and reset the water valve to closed, with the heat lever in that position. Worked well, just looked funny. But you could reset the level to cold with just a bit of a pull. Then reset as needed.
CBODY67
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