New to me 67 Fury VIP, few issues...

[MKTSC]

Posted a thread in the general C-body forum introducing myself, but I have a few technical questions that are probably more suited to this forum. My car is a 383 2bbl car, 727 trans.

New here - 67 Plymouth Fury VIP

Here are the issues that need attention:
-Trans was serviced, new cooler lines installed, and fresh fluid/filter/gasket. However there's a leak coming from the transmission and the previous owner says it's from where the line enters the transmission. What are common things to look for with these transmissions?

-When full, the fuel tank leaks. It also seems to leak when you apply the brakes and fuel sloshes to the front of the tank. Seems to be coming from the front top of the tank. I'm wondering if there are vents there? Replacement tanks are easy and pretty cheap to source, however they seem to sell two different versions, one with 2 vents and one with 4. Any easy way to identify which one I have without dropping the tank? It looks as though the 4 vent version has the vents facing rearward off the back of the tank, and that the 2 vent version has forward facing vents on the top front of the tank. I'm guessing I have the 2 vent version as I can't seen any rearward vents looking up underneath. Does this sound correct?

-Choke is inoperable. Not a huge deal, but I'll probably fix it and rebuild the carb at the same time. It's a Carter BBD correct? Mike's Carburetor Parts stocks two kits for this car and carb. Is there a particular one I need? Does anyone have any good info on the theory of operation of these chokes? It looks like there's a vacuum diaphragm on the passenger side of the intake that has a bolt coming out of the vacuum line, and it looks as though the choke pulloff is tied up with wire.

Here's pics:

Thanks in advance,

-MK

 

[70bigblockdodge]

That's not a 67 intake, 73 up. Blue wire off of choke stove housing is for a electric heating element to turn choke off quicker to reduce emissions. The actual choke is actuated by a spring in sheet metal peice on the intake they are available new. The vacuum pot on driver side is for EGR valve it will make the car get better mileage on the highway if it is connected and cleaned and working properly

 

[MKTSC]

That's not a 67 intake, 73 up. Blue wire off of choke stove housing is for a electric heating element to turn choke off quicker to reduce emissions. The actual choke is actuated by a spring in sheet metal peice on the intake they are available new. The vacuum pot on driver side is for EGR valve it will make the car get better mileage on the highway if it is connected and cleaned and working properly

Hmmm. So if that's a 73 and up intake, now you've got me wondering about the engine attached to it. How to verify? Looks like I should clip that wire holding the pulloff, and see what happens. How do you properly set the choke on one of these? Press gas to floor before cold start?

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Well the intake would be off a 400, only low deck available in smog era and 440 never had 2 bbl. Check the vibration dampener if it looks like this it is a external balance 400, note the egg shaped inner hub, and or check the machined pad in front of the cylinder head mating surface behind the alternator.
Godammit can't get pic to load WTF

There we go.

 

[detmatt]

If the rest of the engine has remanents of turquoise paint on it like the valve covers it's most likely the original 383 it came with. This location on your engine will definitely tell you what you want to know.

 

[MKTSC]

The whole engine does haven turquoise paint on it, however the casting number above the starter on the block indicates it's a 400 correct?

Sure does look like the pic on hemmings site though:

 

[MYSINBIN]

All of my '67 Newports have two vents facing forward. More than likely yours is the same. I don't know about California smog cars.

Sounds like the sending unit and/or the rubber hose connections are compromised.

If you get the rearend up on ramps or stands, you can see everything.

You can get a sending unit from Van's Auto on eBay. It's been said that the new o-ring is nfg. I used the new o-ring with my original lock ring with no leaks.

The transmission leak could be the shift seal. Very common on these cars.

Hope the input helps.

John

 

[MKTSC]

All of my '67 Newports have two vents facing forward. More than likely yours is the same. I don't know about California smog cars.

Sounds like the sending unit and/or the rubber hose connections are compromised.

If you get the rearend up on ramps or stands, you can see everything.

You can get a sending unit from Van's Auto on eBay. It's been said that the new o-ring is nfg. I used the new o-ring with my original lock ring with no leaks.

The transmission leak could be the shift seal. Very common on these cars.

Hope the input helps.

John

Thanks, I ordered a selector shaft seal tool with new seal. Also looking under it, one of the vents looks like the rubber boot is rotted away and it's just venting fuel out the front of the tank.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Nothing wrong with a 400 will run on crap gas and that intake plenum volume is bigger than the 383 2 bbl. Seems like someone did a nice job of keeping car looking original under hood but I would still pull the cover off the front of transmission and rotate the torque converter to make sure it has the external balance weight it most likely needs unless it happened to be from a manual trans vehicle. You need to do some checking to make sure you don't wipe out the main bearings. Look for a E on the upper right corner of the pad Matt showed in his post, look for egg shape on hub of vibration dampener, shown in my post then check front of torque converter for the weight
Fix that vent line hose before whole car catches fire
Good luck and report back.

 

[MKTSC]

Thanks for the info, I'll verify the damper when it's light out tomorrow. Replaced the vent line tonight, going to fill up tomorrow and verify that the sending unit isn't leaking too.

 

[MKTSC]

Any idea what carb is on this thing? I can't for the life of me figure out what it is...

 

[commando1]

Any idea what carb is on this thing? I can't for the life of me figure out what it is...

Bendix Stromberg WWC.


It's in your FSM.

 

[MKTSC]

You mean the FSM for the 75-79 car that this engine came in, or the 67 FSM that's still in the mail because I got the car last thursday and ordered it friday?

Thanks a bunch, I must've spent two hours yesterday looking at different 2bbl carbs and couldn't find this. Kind of interesting considering the Stromberg WWC appears to be a carb used on early 60's Chrysler vehicles.

This engine must be some sort of bastard conglomeration of parts. Now to get the choke fixed...

 

[commando1]

You mean the FSM for the 75-79 car that this engine came in, or the 67 FSM that's still in the mail because I got the car last thursday and ordered it friday?

Yes.

Looks like they kept the original carb from the 67.

 

[The Horvaths]

Are you sure the fuel isn't leaking from the filler neck? There is a gasket there that is commonly destroyed, hence the gas leak.

 

[MKTSC]

Yes.

Looks like they kept the original carb from the 67.

HAHA seriously thanks for the info though. Car is a pain to cold start, and I figure I should start by rebuilding the carb. The pull-off is wired open for some reason so after I get the carb rebuilt, I'll see what happens. Previous owner said the choke was stuck on, so this must've been his genius fix...

 

[MKTSC]

Are you sure the fuel isn't leaking from the filler neck? There is a gasket there that is commonly destroyed, hence the gas leak.

The leak is coming from the front of the tank near the differential. I replaced a broken vent hose, and will fill the car up at lunch today to verify the fix.

*edit* Just got back from lunch and the new vent hose seems to have fixed the fuel leak.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I'll give you a most likely on the choke. You will need to check the choke pull off( that vacuum diaphragm that is wired open) for a vacuum leak. It opens the choke slightly when engine starts and vacuum drawn on it, there are settings for it in FSM and rebuild kit. The one problem you may have is the divorced choke stove may have longer rod for a different carb and holding choke on too long, you can probably just put a Z bend in the rod to make it shorter if it needs to be longer you will have to get creative. If it is staying on too long due to hybrid parts I would connect the heater wire (the blue one) to turn it off faster. The EGR vavle I would connect but if you don't I would pull it and block it off so no chance of a vacuum leak.

 

[MKTSC]

Awesome, thanks a ton. Few questions:

-Where should the blue wire connect?
-Where should the EGR valve connect?
-What's the proper way to set the choke for cold start. Is the choke automatic in this car, or do you have to floor the throttle before starting to set it?

Thanks.

 

[The Horvaths]

You'll find this helpful.
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