No power at WOT or uphill

josehf34

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I went to a highway cruise the past weekend and the car performed great but just in the return trip my fury started acting weird, I don't have power going uphill, even in first gear and with throttle at wot the car will not pass 15 mph and I can hear the engine misfiring, sometimes the engine died in the middle of the uphill and the unique way to have it going again was starting it with throttle at WOT and even under this condition it takes a lot of cranking to have it going again. In plain highway I can't use more than half throttle or the misfire is going to appear again

Once arrived home checked for dirt inside the carburetor (625cfm street demon) but didn't find anything strange, checked the spark wires and all of them are working. So I don't know what else should I check

My mechanic says that could be the mechanical fuel pump, right know I'm using a carter unit that has like three months installed in car. He told me that would be better to switch for a electric pump but I don't want to spent money and time if the problem is not the pump
 
Clogged fuel filter? Remove and check for dirty filter. If the problem only occurs when the engine is fully warmed up it could be Vapor lock. I would recommend running an extra thick insulated carb gasket. It might be wise to invest in a fuel pressure gauge to determine whether the fuel pump is good or not.
 
Clogged fuel filter? Remove and check for dirty filter. If the problem only occurs when the engine is fully warmed up it could be Vapor lock. I would recommend running an extra thick insulated carb gasket. It might be wise to invest in a fuel pressure gauge to determine whether the fuel pump is good or not.

Fuel filter was changed with the fuel pump but I'm going to check it. I'm not sure if this can be related to vapor lock because when the engine dies I can see through the carb air horn fuel going out the accelerator pump
 
Nop, even I installed a dual exhaust set up some months ago

Can a faulty ignition coil cause problems like this?
An old rusty gas tank can clog up a new fuel filter fairly quickly. I would check the fuel filter first. Usually a coil not firing is caused by a bad ballast resistor and will usually cause your engine to die out without any prior warning. If you think it might be a spark problem a ballast resistor is allot cheaper to replace than an ignition coil. You could also check the gap between your reluctor wheel and the magnetic pickup on your distributor with a non magnetic feeler gauge if its an electronic ignition or the condition of your points if its an old style ignition. To me it sounds more like a fuel problem but then again I could be wrong.
 
An old rusty gas tank can clog up a new fuel filter fairly quickly. I would check the fuel filter first. Usually a coil not firing is caused by a bad ballast resistor and will usually cause your engine to die out without any prior warning. If you think it might be a spark problem a ballast resistor is allot cheaper to replace than an ignition coil. You could also check the gap between your reluctor wheel and the magnetic pickup on your distributor with a non magnetic feeler gauge if its an electronic ignition or the condition of your points if its an old style ignition. To me it sounds more like a fuel problem but then again I could be wrong.

I'm running a GM HEI ignition with mopar electronic distributor so I don't have ballast resistor but my coil is the car factory one, so 42 years old coil can give me enough reasons to suspect that maybe the problem can be related to it
 
What year is your vehicle? Most likely your fuel filter sock in the tank, attached to the sending unit, has clogged from debris. If your car is a 1972-3 Fury or Dodge, then the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold back may have collapsed inside - it was double walled for extra quiet from the factory, but the inner pipe might have collapsed. That wasn't easy to find the first time I experienced it.
 
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What year is your vehicle? Most likely your fuel filter sock in the tank, attached to the sending unit has clogged from debris. If your car is a 1972-3 Fury or Dodge, then the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold back may have collapsed inside - it was double walled for extra quiet from the factory, but the inner pipe might have collapsed. That wasn't easy to find the first time I experienced it.

My car is a '74 fury but the sending unit is new too, I changed it with the fuel pump and filter
 
I had to replace the steel fuel lines from the tank to my engine a few years back. They had rust/debris in them. The return line was completely clogged. I checked them by blowing air through them. I changed my in tank sock filter back then too.

Does your engine get any surging while driving?
 
My car is a '74 fury but the sending unit is new too, I changed it with the fuel pump and filter
Did you check the tank when you changed the sending unit to see if it had rust in it - it wouldn't take long to clog a new filter if it does?
 
Did you check the tank when you changed the sending unit to see if it had rust in it - it wouldn't take long to clog a new filter if it does?

yes but didn't see rust, even the old sending unit wasn't clogged, was pretty clean to be honest

I had to replace the steel fuel lines from the tank to my engine a few years back. They had rust/debris in them. The return line was completely clogged. I checked them by blowing air through them. I changed my in tank sock filter back then too.

Does your engine get any surging while driving?

My fury doesn't has return line, only the fuel line and the vapor canister line and I think they're in good shape, I've never had problems of rust on fuel filter or carb

How does the engine acts like if were surging?
 
Define "plug wires working". Wires can perform just fine at idle and absolutely fall apart at higher loads. Follow the plug wires at night in total darkness. If you don't see anything, try it again with a water-misting bottle, spraying the wires.
 
Take a mist-it bottle with water at night, and lightly spray the wires. See if it misses then. Also check the distributor carefully for anything lose or broken in the advances. Also check the timing chain for slack while the cap is off. 74 would have the nylon timing set (unless it was upgraded more recently) and the teeth break off, and the chain can jump. That was very common in the 80s when these cars had some miles and years in service.
 
Check the fuel pump pushrod for wear. The one that operates the mechanical fuel pump from cam lobe. Mine had worn so much that it was barely long enough to move the pump lever at all. I could only cruise with very light throttle when it was acting up.

You should be able to find the correct value for pushrod length from google
 
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