Sitting for 17 Years and bringing back.

[Aquaman]

After sitting for 17 years I am going through and going to get my '68 Newport 4d Hardtop back on the road but in good form. The car is very solid and in good shape, just needs some TLC.

I have never done a front end but have my parts laid out and am moving ahead slowly as to not make (to many) mistakes that I have to do over.

Parts laid out as I move forward. - My questions will be coming at intervals.

 

[Big_John]

One suggestion, if you are changing the lower control arm bushing, is not to tighten the nut on the shaft until the car is on the ground and at ride height. Just leave it loose enough so the shaft turns.

The rubber flexes and lets the arm move. If you tighten the nut while the car is jacked up, the rubber will twist even more as the car is lowered. (if that makes sense) The rubber will last much longer that way.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

One suggestion, if you are changing the lower control arm bushing, is not to tighten the nut on the shaft until the car is on the ground and at ride height. Just leave it loose enough so the shaft turns.

Indeed. From the Service Manual:

 

[Big_John]

Indeed. From the Service Manual:

View attachment 655801

I honestly think that some of the short term failures blamed on new parts is because of this. It's the same with the rear leaf spring bushings.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

I honestly think that some of the short term failures blamed on new parts is because of this. It's the same with the rear leaf spring bushings.

When I rebuilt my 68 Dart's suspension back in 1977, I "accidentally" read and understood the FSM's part about leaving things finger tight, etc. Otherwise my young self would have just checked the torque chart and tightened everything up while it was on (borrowed) jackstands. I lowered it (bumper jack!) onto cinder blocks so I had room to shimmy under and tighten things up properly.

Imagine the preload that would be in those bushings when the control arms move upwards maybe 30* when loaded!

 

[Aquaman]

Thank you all for the tips. They are much appreciated. As much as one reads and does research, the bits and tips provided by those with a common interest are most helpful.

I am most excited to be back to playing with these cars and am looking forward to driving it again sometime in the future. I learned to drive on a '68 Newport sedan in the early '80s. But I am sure you all understand these feelings.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Thank you all for the tips. They are much appreciated. As much as one reads and does research, the bits and tips provided by those with a common interest are most helpful.

You DO have a service manual, yes?

 

[73Coupe]

After sitting for 17 years I am going through and going to get my '68 Newport 4d Hardtop back on the road but in good form. The car is very solid and in good shape, just needs some TLC.

I have never done a front end but have my parts laid out and am moving ahead slowly as to not make (to many) mistakes that I have to do over.

Parts laid out as I move forward. - My questions will be coming at intervals.

View attachment 655717

View attachment 655718

I recognize Craig's "signature" all over those boxes and bags....

 

[customsportsman]

Aaaahhhh....that's a "Craig kit". You won't be disappointed! I just did the entire front end on my 69 Fury (same as yours). Not a bad job. Be sure to replace those lower control arm bushings! I only say this because people often skip that part because "appears" labor intensive. The job is not so bad. Get yourself the Mancini Racing torsion bar removal tool too! You will be glad you did. If you have access to a MIG welder, the lower control arm removal, and pin sleeve removal will be very easy. I can say this for fact, as I did it two months ago.
Next step...replace those leaf springs! I did, and between these two jobs, the car is a different (much better) car!
Feel free to reach out if I can answer any questions>

 

[Aquaman]

Aaaahhhh....that's a "Craig kit". You won't be disappointed! I just did the entire front end on my 69 Fury (same as yours). Not a bad job. Be sure to replace those lower control arm bushings! I only say this because people often skip that part because "appears" labor intensive. The job is not so bad. Get yourself the Mancini Racing torsion bar removal tool too! You will be glad you did. If you have access to a MIG welder, the lower control arm removal, and pin sleeve removal will be very easy. I can say this for fact, as I did it two months ago.
Next step...replace those leaf springs! I did, and between these two jobs, the car is a different (much better) car!
Feel free to reach out if I can answer any questions>

Yes, the leaf springs do need to be replaced!

 

[Aquaman]

You DO have a service manual, yes?

ORIGINAL Service manual & in PDF. I also have a full parts book. I obtained these years ago but had to take a 15 year break away from these beasts as I changed career and built a business.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

ORIGINAL Service manual & in PDF. I also have a full parts book. I obtained these years ago but had to take a 15 year break away from these beasts as I changed career and built a business.

That's perseverance. Good for you....time to get back to that car.

The illustrations in paper manual are considerably clearer than the PDF version. That counts when you're trying to figure out that leeeetle spring or detent ball or o-ring seal or bitty gasket.