Stormer's 73 Imperial Build

Stormer

Old Man with a Hat
Joined
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Columbus, OH
http://www.flickr.com/photos/87561020@N03/

Well, I got her home & put away in the 18X81 that I rented to keep & work on her in with a few of my other toys.

Its time to start very carefully planning the build. I've been looking into brakes & suspension since I'll do that first. I need to make some phone calls this week since there's not much out there designed specifically for this car. I'm sure that I'll end up fabricating a lot of the brackets to ditch the leaf springs, etc.

I found a world class shop that will do the body work & paint for 20K or so. I am pretty relieved that I can get it done for that. That will be the very last thing I do though. That same shop can handle all of the electronics, etc. but I'm gonna also talk to one other guy that I know.

I'll probably end up with a 6.1L or a 6.1 based 426 from BES out of Indiana. I'm not sure if anyone makes a bell-housing for 6.1 to 727 or not or if I'll have to go NAG1.

I'll keep posting progress photos on flickr (Stormer's 73) as I go.

Time to start the disassembly. Wish me luck.
 
So what's the choice right now for color? Flat black exterior...Black interior, steelies with dog dish caps and all the bright trim and chrome?

Keep your eyes open for parts cars for rust free parts and panels. Those alone will help keep the cost down when it comes time for body work and paint.

When I restored a very rusty 68 coronet convertible, I happened across a perfect rust free 68 coronet 4dr for $200. That car alone saved me thousands of dollar in metal/fab work and welding. It donated probably 65% of it's sheet metal to the convertible.
 
You're crazier than I am. I love it.
HAHA, I doubt it ;)

So what's the choice right now for color? Flat black exterior...Black interior, steelies with dog dish caps and all the bright trim and chrome?

Keep your eyes open for parts cars for rust free parts and panels. Those alone will help keep the cost down when it comes time for body work and paint.

When I restored a very rusty 68 coronet convertible, I happened across a perfect rust free 68 coronet 4dr for $200. That car alone saved me thousands of dollar in metal/fab work and welding. It donated probably 65% of it's sheet metal to the convertible.
I'm thinking black with TONS of flake in it. Definitely black interior but I'm not sure about wheels yet. I'll probably go 20" though to lose some sidewall without going much taller. 29" tires work great on 20" wheels.

So, what all panels from a 4 door will fit on this car?
 
It sounds like you have a great plan. Were you looking for a car/ Imperial or did this one just turn up for you?
 
If you change that interior to Black from White I will hate you forever.
HAHA, you might as well just start now then cuz it's gonna be black :)

It sounds like you have a great plan. Were you looking for a car/ Imperial or did this one just turn up for you?
I'm finishing an 09 Challenger build & I've been talking about a C body for a while. The Challenger is losing the back seat due to a 6 point roll bar so I was able to talk my wife into allowing another car that I can still haul our 8 & 11 year old daughters in. When I started really looking at C bodies, the 73 Imperial became my favorite. I found the car by doing a google search which lead me to a thread on this very forum. That's how I found the car.
 
. When I started really looking at C bodies, the 73 Imperial became my favorite. I found the car by doing a google search which lead me to a thread on this very forum. That's how I found the car.


Glad we could help. Will you be redoing the interior, dyeing it or replacing everything all together?
 
Glad we could help. Will you be redoing the interior, dyeing it or replacing everything all together?
All new black leather with modern electronics & as much modern safety stuff as I can possibly get in the car. The factory gauge cluster, etc. will also go bye bye.

Glad I found this place. Lots of knowledge & fun here.
 
...So, what all panels from a 4 door will fit on this car?

Not all...but front fenders, hood, front cowl...YES. But the back end of a 4dr...from the back of the rear door on back to the rear bumper will give you half a wheel opening, and a good trunk floor, trunk extensions and lower quarters. And if you have any rot around the rear tail panel, or trunk drip rail, then it can give up valuable pieces as well. The floor might not be exactly the same between a 4dr and 2dr...depends on wheel base etc...but it will be darn close, and easy to work with.

So I'd say keep your eyes open for a nice rust free 73 Imp 4dr...your wallet will thank you later. ;)
 
I tried to use mostly oem doner parts on my `68 RR and also literally saved an easy 3K over what the repopped stuff goes for and the oem stuff fits without ANY extra work. Let alone having to fab replacement parts for these cars would have to be monumentally expensive!
 
Well, I made some progress this week. I got the interior, other than the drivers seat, out of the car & got it cleaned out real good. I pulled the electric motor from the driver's window & will get it rebuilt. I also bought a trailer to tug it around on since the turn signals don't work & I'll be pulling the motor soon anyway.

Today I pulled it up to a shop I know just north of Columbus & had them take a look at it for wiring & gauges. He quoted me $10K to re-wire the entire car from top to bottom, including all modern gauges, switches & a custom harness. That also includes wiring the PCM for the modern Hemi. 10K is pretty much what I was thinking so once again I'm relieved to learn that my drawn-on-a-napkin budget is pretty realistic.

Speaking of Hemi, I found a long block 6.1 (brand new rotating assembly) with BES heads & cam for $5,500. Not too shabby. That should make a little over 500 horse & make an extremely dependable daily driver.

Ill continue the disassembly when I can & post up the progress.
 
Quoted $10,000 for wiring.

On budget......

My Spidey sense is tingling...

(Sent using Forum Runner)
 
Well, I don't mean to brag but I had a really great year last year & I plan to spare no expense on this build. I'm throwing out the actual numbers hoping that one of you boys will speak up if something seems way out of line.

I spoke to the engine builder today & we're gonna go 6.1L with Eagle (5.7) heads. That will make the CR 11.5:1 & should have great low end torque without getting too crazy. He's gonna get it ready for me to plug & play using the computer from a 2005 Ram. That should save me a buck or two on wiring but I'll prolly ( ;) @ commando ) just stick it into a better stereo. And yes, I will have a sub or two but I'm a 41 year old white guy so just take a deep breath & accept it.
 
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You can't possibly tell me that you'd rather have some shitty FM radio over. Modern bad *** sound system.
 
You can't possibly tell me that you'd rather have some shitty FM radio over. Modern bad *** sound system.


All that bass cranked to the max and no other sound to speak of..? No thank You. I'd rather have a one speaker am radio than all that thumpety thump. Metal vibrating, glass shaking and not a musical note to be heard. No thank You
 
All that bass cranked to the max and no other sound to speak of..? No thank You. I'd rather have a one speaker am radio than all that thumpety thump. Metal vibrating, glass shaking and not a musical note to be heard. No thank You
Once again you are less than reasonable..... My Challenger has a Kicker sub right from the factory (gasp!). I even changed the location of the 6 point & gave up the back seat to save the rear speakers. My Ram has a factory Alpine system that just jams. Sirius in both, obviously.

It's 2012, ZZ Top has a new album & so does Van Halen. I jam them both in my rides via Rhapsody but I guess FM Radio is good enough for you. My taste is slightly more refined. ;)
 
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