Suspension upgrades on 68 fury?

to me, that shape is strange compared to what i have on my 68 fury.

you sure you do not have a front bar on there from factory? think a PO removed it?

as far as poly hangars, or hangars at all - i saw some generic front/top hangars in the vatozone aisle where the bolt on upgrades are. that takes care of the front area mount spot. the other end bolts around the strut bars on either side. not sure where you could get those brackets if you do not have any currently.

maybe get a front sway bar assy off one of the parts cars around here then get some good poly mounts.

try not to die -

- saylor
 
Thanks! I know right!? The shape looks odd. It looks like this one would mount on the bolt for the front shock. Im looking for a cheapo front swaybar and i dont even have the brackets on the frame... so I gotta come up with something. I dont know, I just found this and saw multiple sources listing all kinds of c-bodies for fitment!?
 
The front sway bar is your BEST bang for the buck to stabilize your "boat" into a CAR. I replaced the rubber on Mathilda last spring and have had a MUCH SAFER ride ever since. Mind you, with rotten control arm bushings, strut rods bent a little and such, the rubber on my front sway bar has been severely stressed, and I'm planning on using Moog's products later this summer, as well finishing the front end job. BUT, if I get in a bind for time, I'll do my sway bar rubber again. Its WELL worth it. I'll PRAY for you until you get a front sway bar. Try the junk yards if you must.... I'm very poor myself and have to make my $$ count.
 
Don't forget the lower control arm pivot bushing! It's not seen but deteriorates with age and can affect alignment and cornering. Never had a problem changing shocks on the front The offset bushings for the upper control are probably all that you can buy, anyway.

318 and Slant Six C-body cars usually had the front sway bar as optional. "Police" drum brakes would relate to the width of the drum, which could go up to 11x3 in size. Police-spec brakes were also non-self-adjusting, but using the existing hardware (self-adjusting), with a drum that will accommodate the wider brake shoes, 11x3" brakes are "bolt-in", front and rear.

Alignment will not make it ride stiffer. The negative camber can cause inner tread wear. The stock alignment settings, possibly with a little more caster ONLY, then set toe-in as close to "0" as possible. Stiff shocks will firm things up nicely. THEN run 30-32psi in the front tires and 28-30 in the rears, which helps steering response and cornering. On the older bias plies on the '66 Newport, I'd do 30/28 and everything wore great, handling improved over factory pressure recommendations, but with P-metric radials, bumping things up 2psi f/r over that might be good The factory Chrysler front end geometry puts the outside tire in a turn into negative camber anyway, which braces the outer sidewall for better loads and keeps it more perpendicular to the road surface as the car leans. The inner wheel goes into positive camber for the same reason.

A rear bar can help. With a little "heat", a '76 Cordoba rear bar will work.

Factory wheel widths went up to 6.5" rim width on 14" wheels ('66 Chrysler station wagon) and the same wagon used 9.00x14 tires, which is about as wide of a section width that will clear the fenders (on the outside) and leaf springs (on the inside). On the front, the outer tie rods are the interference point, especially with the rubber protector shields out '66 came with.

Factory a/c cars came with the same front torsion bars as the HD suspension cars did, usually. So adding a little more roll stiffness to the rear could help.

CBODY67
 
Back
Top