Valvetrain/Valve Lash Adjustment

Uh...it had an Isky cam with roller lifters he installed but they were solid lifters. I never said or implied they were factory.
But, you can have solid or hydraulic lifters of either flat or roller variety.
And they aren't tappets. They don't tap anything.
Case in point- why do people say "flat tappet" but "roller lifter"? Their function is the same. The common nomenclature of "tappet" is a misnomer.
You don't adjust the lifters, you adjust the clearance between the rocker arm and valve stem where the "tapping" is. A tappy valve is a happy valve.
What would you call the lifter on a Japanese moorsickle engine with overhead cams?
And, kimmer, your attempt at humor failed but you succeeded in being a smart ***!:thankyou:
Re read post 11. I see u resorted to name calling. No problem. When anyone is proven wrong they do that. Kim
 
Well, I didnt realize this was such a touchy subject haha. Anyway I went and did my valve lash cold at .015 as the cam manufacturer suggest. I did a compression test after and everything seems to be within spec and no leaking. Definitely not as loud, and yes I think tappets and solid lifters are an interchangeable term. I hear a lot of old skool guys use the term tappets referring to solid lifters. As far as the adjustment I have the stock rocker arms which has a screw and essentially adjust the pushrods through out each valve which inturn opens or closes your "gap" between the rocker arms and the top of the valve stem which is checked with a feeler guage. Anyway hope allmis well with y'all!
 
Hey guys so I posted up a vid on youtube link will be below. I followed cam manufacturers cold valve lash spec which is .015. I feel like the valvetrain is still really tappety/chatty, inhave a 66 charger with a 318 poly head as well and it's not nearly as tappety/chatty. The cam that is in there is a Schneider Racing cam 264 .450 220 @.050. It's a solid flat tappet/lifters cam. I reused to original rocker arms, pushrods and obviously rocker shafts. Everything wasn't worn terribly so that's why I reused those parts. Also have the original poly iorn heads that were milled for 10:1 compression. Also I checked my header gaskets and made sure all the bolts were tight, I know and exhaust or header leak can tap and be mistaken for a lifter tick. Here's the video so yall can listen.

 
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Hey guys so I posted up a vid on youtube link will be below. I followed cam manufacturers cold valve lash spec which is .015. I feel like the valvetrain is still really tappety/chatty, inhave a 66 charger with a 318 poly head as well and it's not nearly as tappety/chatty. The cam that is in there is a Schneider Racing cam 264 .450 220 @.050. It's a solid flat tappet/lifters cam. I reused to original rocker arms, pushrods and obviously rocker shafts. Everything wasn't worn terribly so that's why I reused those parts. Also have the original poly iorn heads that were milled for 10:1 compression. Also I checked my header gaskets and made sure all the bolts were tight, I know and exhaust or header leak can tap and be mistaken for a lifter tick. Here's the video so yall can listen

https://youtube.com/shorts/oiYrsPffdjg?feature=share
ahhh I cudd'int really tell you were talking over the 27 second video... need tips to make a video?
 
Hey guys so I posted up a vid on youtube link will be below. I followed cam manufacturers cold valve lash spec which is .015. I feel like the valvetrain is still really tappety/chatty, inhave a 66 charger with a 318 poly head as well and it's not nearly as tappety/chatty. The cam that is in there is a Schneider Racing cam 264 .450 220 @.050. It's a solid flat tappet/lifters cam. I reused to original rocker arms, pushrods and obviously rocker shafts. Everything wasn't worn terribly so that's why I reused those parts. Also have the original poly iorn heads that were milled for 10:1 compression. Also I checked my header gaskets and made sure all the bolts were tight, I know and exhaust or header leak can tap and be mistaken for a lifter tick. Here's the video so yall can listen

https://youtube.com/shorts/oiYrsPffdjg?feature=share

Doesn't sound bad. Sounds about right to me. Is .15 the clearance for both intake and exhaust? Usually, the exhaust is a bit wider.
 
It's a solid flat tappet/lifters cam.

Solid lifter cams will always have a slight tick that you'll never be able to get rid of, it's the nature of the beast! Deal with it.

Everything wasn't worn terribly so that's why I reused those parts.

Looks are and can be deceiving, did you Mic everything to see if they're still in specs?
 
Again. . . Engine sounds right to me. What weight earl are you running, Earl?
Ok, this is my first go around with a solid flat tappet so I wasn't really sure on sounds as there really isn't any videos on the internet of solid flat tappets mostly solid rollers. I'm using 10w30 but I am open to any suggestions
 
Solid lifter cams will always have a slight tick that you'll never be able to get rid of, it's the nature of the beast! Deal with it.



Looks are and can be deceiving, did you Mic everything to see if they're still in specs?

Yes I will deal with it as long as that's how it's suppose to sound, just wasn't sure as this was my first rebuild and really have no idea what a solid flat tappet is suppose to sound like, but now I know and it's awesome because not everyone runs them, it's all hydraulic or solid rollers nowadays and
yes as much as I could, I may just get new rockers and pushrods
 
Ok, this is my first go around with a solid flat tappet so I wasn't really sure on sounds as there really isn't any videos on the internet of solid flat tappets mostly solid rollers. I'm using 10w30 but I am open to any suggestions

Many many years ago, I had a Chevy 265 small block running a Corvette fuel injection cam that called for .030 clearance on both intake and exhaust - hence the 30-30 cam. You should have heard that thing!

As regards oil: The 10W-30 oil may be a little light. Is it a break-in oil you are using? I would probably go with 10W-40 or even 20W-50. I would also be sure to use a high ZDDP content oil like Penn Grade. Love yer poly!
 
If it bothers you, just turn up the radio.

I don't mind it at all!

Many many years ago, I had a Chevy 265 small block running a Corvette fuel injection cam that called for .030 clearance on both intake and exhaust - hence the 30-30 cam. You should have heard that thing!

As regards oil: The 10W-30 oil may be a little light. Is it a break-in oil you are using? I would probably go with 10W-40 or even 20W-50. I would also be sure to use a high ZDDP content oil like Penn Grade. Love yer poly!

Thanks! I'm using Castrol gtx but I added the Lucas zddp stuff they make. I broke my cam in using Schneider cam break in oil Ill do an oil change and try a 20w-50 and see if I can find one with zddp in it instead of buying a bottle to add.
 
I don't mind it at all!



Thanks! I'm using Castrol gtx but I added the Lucas zddp stuff they make. I broke my cam in using Schneider cam break in oil Ill do an oil change and try a 20w-50 and see if I can find one with zddp in it instead of buying a bottle to add.


You can get the Penn Grade oil from Summit and the good WIX oil filter too.
 
Cheers to those that do their own homework and review to their problems or not! You should be happy that it's sounds so quite! You may even have them a little to tight??? Good Luck


 
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I still hear the tick I have isn't normal, it's only on one side andni did the old skool hearing trick with a wooden broom stick and the tick is coming from the number 7 cylinder, im wondering if one of those rocker arms whether intake or exhaust is worn. As I have mentioned I reused the original rocker arms, shaft and push rods, all the others seems quiet and sound like a sewing machine but I just have that tick coming from that cylinder. How would I check and see if that rocker arm is worn and really tell if that is what is causing that tick/click. I also want to mention that my wife has a 66 charger with the 318 poly, the cam is a smidge smaller but has the flat tappets and has no tick and the valve lash is bigger, just some food for thought. If anyone has further advice that would be great, the tick/click noise is bothering me
 
I still hear the tick I have isn't normal, it's only on one side andni did the old skool hearing trick with a wooden broom stick and the tick is coming from the number 7 cylinder, im wondering if one of those rocker arms whether intake or exhaust is worn. As I have mentioned I reused the original rocker arms, shaft and push rods, all the others seems quiet and sound like a sewing machine but I just have that tick coming from that cylinder. How would I check and see if that rocker arm is worn and really tell if that is what is causing that tick/click. I also want to mention that my wife has a 66 charger with the 318 poly, the cam is a smidge smaller but has the flat tappets and has no tick and the valve lash is bigger, just some food for thought. If anyone has further advice that would be great, the tick/click noise is bothering me

You might have a bad lifter on No. 7, but I doubt it. Re-check the lash on the valves for that cylinder. Something may have slipped out of adjustment.
 
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