The car is almost as old as I am, well maybe not.....but the findings just continue. So, once running the car, I began to hammer in second gear to see how things go. Cooling issues, and after about a fourth flush with cleaner, it got worse....and was at about 225 when I returned to the driveway. So, the price of repair is half of new, so, given state of the old, I got a very nice radiator of copper and brass....really nice piece of chicken. So, installed radiator, with all manner of plumbing issues, and on the road again. Still not happy, after the hammer for a few miles, it was at about 200 in the driveway. And, this was after adding back the thermostat that I have had out. Thought I was good in normal runs keeping at thermostat temp, but the hammer brought out the stress. So, next on my list was a pump. Got a high flow one, esp since this will be a low RPM car. Well, due to massive scale, the pump would not even enter its house. So, lots of work inside with scrapers to get back to iron, not oxide. So, now the new one goes in, but hits the back wall. So, remove small amounts from the rotor.....two times with file, then twice with large dremel. Finally got clearance with no gasket. Lots of primer, high tack and permatex gasket maker, the new one is in place. This should be interesting. But, all of this was behind the simple install of thermostat. First, no one in their right mind would put the thermo recess in the upper hose adapter cover....meaning to align the stinkin thing, you have to put it in place then stick the gasket to the adapter cover and then install. And of course, this engine was so corroded that it took Permatex to seal against the engine side.....after several attempts to use just high tack spray....no way. Every thing I attack just makes me recall the black cloud that has been over my head for decades now.......lets see how hard this can be. FUN right. Now that I am thinking about it, I may need to pull the therm and check it opens at 180 as advertised......NOT made in USA.....but not china either.
Water Pump Woes
- Thread starter 66furys
- Start date
IF the water pump and housing were that filled with rust, what might make you perceive the rest of the cooling system and heater core are any different? It's like trying to spot reduce for belly fat, there might be some supplements and exercises to make the torso firmer and smaller, but not to get rid of the fat below the belly button specifically. One fat cell goes, they all go . . . or at least get a bit fewer in number . . . everywhere.
As it's only going to 220 degrees F, that should be "liveable", but not perfect. Considering the age of the vehicle, might plan on doing some Thermocore flushes and then replace all of the block core plugs afterward.
DO take the heater core out of the loop while doing these things, plumbing-wise. IF the cleaner takes off too much scale, it's one thing if the scale has degraded the core plugs, it's another thing if the same happens with the heater core!
It will be messy to replace all of the block core plugs. Best to plan on a "winter project" to do them, probably?
Take care,
CBODY67
As it's only going to 220 degrees F, that should be "liveable", but not perfect. Considering the age of the vehicle, might plan on doing some Thermocore flushes and then replace all of the block core plugs afterward.
DO take the heater core out of the loop while doing these things, plumbing-wise. IF the cleaner takes off too much scale, it's one thing if the scale has degraded the core plugs, it's another thing if the same happens with the heater core!
It will be messy to replace all of the block core plugs. Best to plan on a "winter project" to do them, probably?
Take care,
CBODY67
Well, you are right. I have chem flushed four times and water still comes brown But, the scale I referred to was on the hard to remove bolts and surrounding the old pump. The interior was not bad, for whatever reason. But, all good points. But, I want the belly fat remover recommendations.....thanks.
Preferred method for flushing rust from engine water jacket?
For an engine still installed in a car. I've used some of the flush related products, but have been concerned about leaving them in the cooling system too long ( concerned they might be too corrosive and damage gaskets.) Now I'm starting to wonder if white vinegar could be an option? Anyone ever ...
forums.aaca.org
Evaporust, or vinegar, or citric acid or oxalic acid.
Did you drain the block (both sides)? There are drain plugs just under the heads and they are easy to reach. My heater core was very rusty and took over 90 minutes to get clean with a hose (reversing direction repeatedly). The other rust maker could be the water pump housing. You may have to remove it, power wash it and boil it. I did mine years ago and it is starting to color the coolant again. Block is clean though. That *may* be your case too. Seeing as you had to dremel it out to make space for the WP, perhaps that is where all the gunk and the restriction is coming from. The other thing is once this is all sorted, clean out the heater core valve as it will have crap in it which could block it and cause a leak into the car. Good luck
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