Recent content by cudamark

Looks like a '66 V8 A-body. You can't rebuild yours? I think there are still places that will stainless sleeve it.

I used to have a '67 Fury 1 2Dr sedan 225 3 speed on the column. Not a very common car.

Well, not so fast. There are all sorts of balancer combinations depending on the application. A 383 has two different ones.....a forged crank type which is for internally ballanced engines, and the oddball '71 2bbl. cast crank balancer which is for external balance. A 400 cast crank balancer is...

Assuming you have a stock 8 3/4 rear end, the axle shaft is the same as '65-9 C-body, '65-70 A100, and all E-bodies with an 8 3/4. RH and LH axle shafts are the same.... just bearing retainers and wheel studs are different.

As thethee mentioned, remove the A/C compressor with it's brackets as a unit. If you're careful and can wire it up out of the way, you don't even need to discharge the system.

I too have only seen ammeter failures due to human error (not counting overload/overcharge mods which can do it too), where the terminal posts were twisted, nuts cross-threaded, or other such butchery, EXCEPT for '75-80 D-series pickups with the plastic instrument cluster housings. Those...

Float level, jet sizes, and fuel pump pressure would be where I would start if the ignition system checks out.

2588883 tint, 2664428 clear. '65-8 C-body hardtop and convertible, except for the '67-8 Chrysler and Dodge 2dr HT, and the '67-8 Plymouth fast top and VIP. Sedans are different too.

Those hub and drums are different than the '57-62 type. They're '63-4 only.....and they made two different ones those years too.....11 X 2 1/2" and 11 X 3"

Nope, none that I'm aware of.

If those are truly 11" brakes, they should be 2 1/2" wide if it's the stock rear end and not a wagon. As a hub and drum assembly, the interchange is '57-62 C-bodies with 11" brakes, which includes Chrysler and Desoto. You can use either side if you include the lug nuts, or change out the studs.

'65-6 Ply trunk hinge is 2526604-5 for all except convertible, and 2482482 for the convertible, so, not only do they look to be different, but, the non-convertible hinges are left and right specific. The Dodge C-bodies those years are different too, both convertible and non.

Looks like an expensive kit. We don't have much extreme weather environment here. Solder and shrink tube work just fine for most of my applications, and a lot less expensive.

There were also three different suppliers of brake parts for Chrysler too. Motor Wheel, Budd, and Kelsey Hayes, so, the appearance will be different between the three brands (not to mention aftermarket replacement drums too). I've also found that they can have heating/cooling differences too...

First, make sure there are no burrs on ANYTHING. I run a file through the keyway and on the key itself. Fine crocus or emery cloth on the smooth surfaces. While doing that, I have the balancer (snout down) on an electric hot plate (on low) to help expand that hub out a bit. Then, while making...