Recent content by daveydave10

Had this listed awhile ago, but it's no longer available to edit, so here's new post. 1967 Imperial Crown Coupe. Older restoration by Previous Owner of interior and exterior paint. Yes I'm very well aware that the seats are not the exact replica, only similar. On the plus side, they are...

@bdog

I researched quite a bit as far as I could take it, which wasn't far.... you just can't pull vehicle records anymore like you used to be able to at the DMV. I know he lived in Arizona during the time this car was still there, and led quite the double life of partying, could fit plenty of ladies...

Hey Matt, here's a few more. - the spare steering column (based on the center, it may be for a '68?? bought a bunch of used parts from central CA) - blue skirts - linkage rod that I was told was for cruise control. - steering wheel in the car (includes the turn signal lever purchased from...

1967 Imperial Crown Coupe. Older restoration by Previous Owner of interior and exterior paint. Yes I'm very well aware that the seats are not the exact replica, only similar. On the plus side, they are leather. Car was originally black exterior & silver/black interior, which would be beyond...

Hey @detmatt, finally made some progress today. I have the front passenger side window working from the driver switch, but it does not work from the passenger side switch. The only hot wire on the passenger side switch panel is the green. Flipping passenger front switch or vent window switch...

Or hugged the centerline when driving. Especially on slower roads, the centerline can stay snow/salt covered for extended periods.

Had only tried one door at the time, but ran through all motors. Driver side is still intact, works fully. Passenger side has power at the motor plug and motor runs continuously. Wires going to the power locks have power and locks work, but all the other wires going to that switch bank seem...

Finally (and I mean Finally!) "rebuilt" all my window motors in the 67 Crown Coupe. When I mount them in the door, plug in the wires, they just run continuously. Does that mean my Window Switches are bad?

@detmatt thx for the pics! I had thought my seals had silicone over some cracks, but now after seeing more pics, I have that same seal you do, but then there’s another boot on top of it siliconed together. @BLIMP , did your solid solution work? I talked to Then and Now, they still charge $125...

i could be completely wrong here, and I’ll definitely give everything a once over, but I think the key here is that the isolaters are completely separated. So the torsion bar anchor bar is literally pressing up against the floor possibly….as I tighten since it’s not attached to the crossmember...

So, deeper issues here… everything inside the door is ok operationally. My torsion bar anchor is completely separated from the crossmember, isolaters cracked, I did tighten them the other day to raise the front a touch and that must have put enough stress onto the car to flex it just enough to...

I know this is a very old post, but it’s similar topic. I removed my isolaters today, and what’s called the “seal” in bajajoaquin’s picture from the FSM, seems to be completely different than what I can find for aftermarket “boots”. Those that have done this work, (@detmatt) did your seals...

Thx all, @cbarge , I'll do some more adjusting today and see if it improves. The odd part... I'm not locking and then closing, I know I have to lock the doors with the key. This is what I'm doing. 1) Close door. 2) lock door with key, test door handle button is locked/cannot depress. 3) pull on...

After closing the door today, it just fell open about an inch, still holding onto the latch slightly. I adjusted the latch all around as much as it would move but that never helped anything. I then shut the door and held it closed, then locked it. I could still pull it open an inch and then...