I had Bob at Glen-Ray recore the original 28" radiator in my 1972 Imperial -- so it can be done. I'm not sure where Bob gets his cores from -- but he told me he doesn't buy the cheapest ones he can find -- he uses ones that he knows will cool whatever horsepower you throw at them. Not cheap...
As someone else has stated - the 530 stamped in the fender tag is the scheduled production date, but the better information of when your car was final assembled is both the door decal and the IBM buildsheet if you have that as well. The MDH on the bottom left of the door VIN decal states 06 07...
I think the bidder of this particular car from Elmer's Auction put a lot of the value of this particular Imperial into four areas
1. Original Paint Car -- huge to some people
2. Sunroof Car -- we all know how rare these are
3. Black Exterior & White Interior with a black vinyl top --...
Yes Big John, this is the type of mechanism that I wholeheartedly endorse. It is by far the safest setup I've ever seen. I just don't feel comfortable with a "pointer" locking mechanism that looks like it's barely holding onto a welded piece of square stock welded to a built up C made out...
This is the locking mechanism I'm talking about. Without photos it's difficult to talk about it. The only way the lift platform can go down is if you raise the car platform up, and then the red stop that you see inserted (that is locked horizontally into the cut out in the vertical post)...
Oh yes -- and whatever lift you decide on -- try to get the widest and longest ones you can. Do a layout on the floor to see if these larger lifts will actually fit in your space before you purchase them. You do want the wider and longer lifts for these Imperials. I have two smaller ones...
In floor heat would be the best -- then if you need to bolt lifts to the floor just pour the floor 8 inches thick with concrete. Yes -- the ceiling outlet idea is extremely good and it does work well. The other option would be to go with cord reels from Reelcraft -- they make the good ones in...
The one on eBay is not what I’m looking for Marty — I’d buy it if it had the correct 3431437 stamp cut into the barrel and I know it’s NOS over the counter which I already have. I’m looking for a nice original assembly line used headlamp motor as these are the only ones with part numbers and...
SGT I'm interested in the master cylinder on the 1970 New Yorker. Also, can you post a photo of the wiper motor part number and date code? I might be interested in that too if it's the one I'm looking for. Thanks!!!!!!!!!
Looking to pay based on condition for a used 1972 Plymouth Fury headlamp motor 3431437. Must have the part number stamped in the barrel as well as not be rust pitted. I'm looking for a mint working motor with no rust pits and will pay up for this kind of condition. No rust pits with...
Awesome on all counts!!!!!!!!!!!! Yes, I did purchase an NOS 72 - 73 license plate/reverse lens but couldn't inspect it until I purchased it and had it sent to me -- I wasn't very happy when I received it as it was pretty warped -- but it was new in the original box but it really didn't...
Is this the same guy in Australia or another guy? I do have an NOS rear lens - but it is really warped too - I can send you a photo of what I have to see if you'd like to use it Steve to your email is you'd like.......... Later, Mark
Cuda Hunter - your PM is full - but I do know if you're looking for an NOS heater delete plate for a 71 E Body I know that Great Lakes does have one for sale and it's not broken or messed up at all. I saw it at Carlisle and I'm sure it's gonna cost a mint - but find another perfect one...
DusterKid your PM messages are full. I'd be interested in the 3574 601 1972 Imperial radiator if there's a way to get it to the Chrysler's at Carlisle show this coming July. PM me if you know of someone going to the show. Thanks, Mark