Well it says AC on it and there is plenty of sealant goop to suggest that it isn't original and was replaced at some point in the past. The original should be a Carter and I do believe one from an LA will work.
Being in CA where the weather is pretty stable, on old engines I'd run straight 30 weight and look into diesel oil with high zddp content or use a zinc additive. Since it's been sitting for so long maybe run a little lucas in there to soften the seals but you might be getting into it at some...
You'll have to learn to drive your car.. I don't mean that as an insult or dig or anything but driving an old car in modern traffic with other cars that can outstop you in fractions of the distance required to stop your car is a skill. It's like learning to drive a truck and trailer. You need to...
You know, I can't believe how solid that car is. What a great save. If you are careful and take your time, I bet that paint can be brought back to be pretty presentable! I can't wait to see this car cleaned up, rubbed out and polished up.
I don't know, be sure to clean all the contacts at both ends and inspect the wires under the dash, check for shorts, maybe change the bulb and make sure the wiring connectors are clean at the voltage reg too.. and make sure no unwated visitors decided to chew on your wires.
95 is a little low but break it in properly and go from there, once its broke in with 500-1000 miles make sure you change the oil (with zinc additive or use high zinc diesel oil) and filter and you'll probably have to readjust the valves.. I think the 301 power pack (4bbl dual exhaust) was rated...
Your car is fantastic, I'm super jealous. That is in my opinion the coolest color combo available in '57. It's so unique and must be relatively rare, I haven't seen many like it but don't know the breakdown. You can contact Chrysler historical and get a copy of the build sheet. That is always...
The gen light should be on when the car isn't charging enough. It always should be ON when the motor isn't running (with the key on) and can weakly pop on at low idle or in gear and stopped but should go off when idle increases.
I've never had a want for power with the poly motor but I guess that depends on where you're coming from. I think the 4bbl polys are quite torquey and move the cars nicely. BUT if you're used to a mild cammed 440 or something maybe the poly might be a slight letdown. You might do a compression...
The headlight switch is the circuit breaker on these cars. No fuse block (but there are 2 fusible links if memory serves 1 behind the clock and 1 behind the radio), no bulkhead connector. If equipped with power windows or power seat there will be a separate circuit breaker behind the drivers...