Recent content by Gerald Morris

Had to replace the CARTER M3672 which I got new from NAPA 5 yrs ago, installed and ran until yestermorn, when I saw a NASTY drizzle of gasoline running off the pump onto my newly acquired driveway shag carpet! This came as little surprise, having at times early in the morning smelled the evil...

I LOVE them, but I see that this one has the pressed on pulley, not the sort with the hex key like the two big ones I run now. I have a third one of the size you have here. These are meant for B and A bodies, though the small one did alright steering our '66 Newport when we got it. Lovely as...

Old Mopar 2nd gear ratio allowed plenty torque to reach the rear end, even a fairly tight one like a 2:76. I've found the 2nd gear in my A-833 w the overdrive in my D150 also makes for good acceleration, even w the /6. I think 2nd is rated around 2.45/1 in the 727.

I suspect either a short circuit in your lighting circuits or the headlight switch itself. You mention seeing a significant current draw when you use these lights. For a 1964 car, you probably should have a fairly low ampacity alternator and charging circuit, given that high current...

Very commendable. Clean is keen! Shiny conductor surfaces conduct better, period. I would strongly consider using regular female bullet terminals IFF one could make the tight bend to fit in a tight space without exposing conductor to a big nasty short circuit....

Here's a nice pic showing how I power my automotive electrical system: Overview at battery; total of 3 #12 AWG fusible links and starter motor power attached to battery + terminal. These protect the following branches: 1.) Alternator charge lead, visible as red #8 AWG wire attached by a...

The best way to power an electric motor load, like a fan, is to locate your auxiliary overcurrent protection center (fusebox/breaker panel) near the battery, then locate the relay(s) near that. I run a separate fusible link off the battery post to my 6 circuit fuse bus, use various fuses and...

Cool! I can dig the rationale there. What ampacity is your alternator? By '69 47-50 amp alts had become pretty common, and the 60 was used for heavy duty stuff like cop cars, meatwagons, taxis and such. Hmm, OK, the VOLTAGE regulator likely as not is solid state, made to LOOK like the old...

Your SYSTEM VOLTAGE is fluctuating. What sort of VOLTAGE REGULATOR do you run? Do you have a voltage gauge, instead of that damned 19th century ammeter monitoring your voltage output? If you still are running that ultra-primitive "regulator" for your instruments, an electro-mechanical breaker...

Does your Polara have the CAP ignition? Is there a "vacuum solenoid" w 3 connections, one to the manifold, another to the ported vac off the cab, then the 3rd to the distributor? That's the setup for which 5 degrees (or as much as 7) BTDC would be proper. Given the low mileage on the engine...

Try spinning the cable with the drill now. If you can get some needle, conclude the speedo pinion gear is failing somehow. I don't expect you to get a needle right now though.

I've got about 4 complete, runnable mid 1960s 2 bbl carbs, 2 Carter BBDs, two Stromberg WC3s, and they all are afflicted to varying degrees from warped air horns. That's what compelled me to get a 4 bbl carb. No matter who I got these old, rebuilt and ****** over old ones from, the air horns...

Recently read a page on all the Consumerama "fix-n-de-can" **** which actually enriches mechanics and machine shops, sometimes in short order. I can dig the H2O mist treatment, properly administered, but in your case, I think you've indeed done all the good you can from these rites. Time to...

Looks like you're WELL tooled bro! Carry on and have a Fosters for breakfast.

Can you get your hands on a second torque wrench, as a sanity check? Sometimes old torque wrenches won't "click" at a relatively low torque setting. when in doubt, I use one with a simple bar and indicator needle, which is less prone to err with age or wear. 30 ft*# isn't huge torque for good...