Recent content by Gerald Morris

Cool! I can dig the rationale there. What ampacity is your alternator? By '69 47-50 amp alts had become pretty common, and the 60 was used for heavy duty stuff like cop cars, meatwagons, taxis and such. Hmm, OK, the VOLTAGE regulator likely as not is solid state, made to LOOK like the old...

Your SYSTEM VOLTAGE is fluctuating. What sort of VOLTAGE REGULATOR do you run? Do you have a voltage gauge, instead of that damned 19th century ammeter monitoring your voltage output? If you still are running that ultra-primitive "regulator" for your instruments, an electro-mechanical breaker...

Does your Polara have the CAP ignition? Is there a "vacuum solenoid" w 3 connections, one to the manifold, another to the ported vac off the cab, then the 3rd to the distributor? That's the setup for which 5 degrees (or as much as 7) BTDC would be proper. Given the low mileage on the engine...

Try spinning the cable with the drill now. If you can get some needle, conclude the speedo pinion gear is failing somehow. I don't expect you to get a needle right now though.

I've got about 4 complete, runnable mid 1960s 2 bbl carbs, 2 Carter BBDs, two Stromberg WC3s, and they all are afflicted to varying degrees from warped air horns. That's what compelled me to get a 4 bbl carb. No matter who I got these old, rebuilt and ****** over old ones from, the air horns...

Recently read a page on all the Consumerama "fix-n-de-can" **** which actually enriches mechanics and machine shops, sometimes in short order. I can dig the H2O mist treatment, properly administered, but in your case, I think you've indeed done all the good you can from these rites. Time to...

Looks like you're WELL tooled bro! Carry on and have a Fosters for breakfast.

Can you get your hands on a second torque wrench, as a sanity check? Sometimes old torque wrenches won't "click" at a relatively low torque setting. when in doubt, I use one with a simple bar and indicator needle, which is less prone to err with age or wear. 30 ft*# isn't huge torque for good...

Don't belittle yourself. Paint & body SELLS CARS, while electrical keeps customers happy w what they bought. I need to pick your brain a bit on the matter of a bent hood. Nasty crease near the front edge, causing the sheet metal to bend down near 90 degrees on the driver side. UGLY, though...

I actually put a Kenwood 6x9 triax into the factory spot in the back and drive it and another, in the trunk in a cabinet w a modest little 100 W Pioneer amp. This gets signal from a little under dash cassette player up front, w a Bluetooth cassette adapter in it. This stuff sounds a lot like...

Those 6 inch wide rims? I ask, because I'm considering 235 70s or 75s for my '70 Rally Rims.....We really NEED the extra width and pneumatic depth running on these rubble streets down here.

Miller made some cool specialty tools, for sure! Soooo right! The gauge and sender combo in Gertrude right now still reads close enough to be useful. When full, the gauge pegs to the far right, burying the needle. Half volume shows about 5/8 full on the gauge. "E" means, "get gas NOW, as...

If you seek a variable resistor of the same range, get a fuel sender, wire it to this gauge, and run the float up and down. The resistances will be the same as your temp gauge, so you should see the needle deflect over the same values. After all, those fuel senders were just crude pots. 4...

THAT'S THE STUFF! Pity it wasn't rodent-proof, but few things in this Kosmos are.... Yah, pop it off, dip it if you have a good "magic potion" then bolt back on and run it! Wish I could buy some REAL petrol, but Political Rectumtood down here dicktates otherwise....

I had one of those...DOUBLE COATED IN FACT! The former owner had allowed the original tank to rust out through the top, and then had the tank coated inside and out with some plastic crap. That stuff did OK w petrol, but failed to stop rats. The rats gnawed through that stuff, then nested in...