Recent content by gyknot

Commando 1--- Did you use the Schumaker A body to BB mounts? As I mentioned I have a set I was thinking at one time of using in a C body but nobody could tell me for sure if they would fit or work. Just curious how you did it.

No idea where you could find the parts. Out west here, frames survive quite well. But they have mostly gone to the crusher too. Good luck on the search.

Since I was asked, here goes. I suspect the location of the frame mounts would be the same in any of the body styles. But, I don't know that for a fact. Yes the engine mounts I'm sure are different between them. I was going to take my chances, but then gave up on the whole big block swap. I...

How soon would you need it? I have a 67 Fury III 4dr hdtp parts car but it is in snow as well. It would likely be a couple of months before I would consider pulling parts. I'm just north of Spokane, Wa. so it's not exactly close.

If the other side looks as straight as the side showing, AND there is little rust, I'm thinking that is a 2500-3000 car easily if it runs and drives. Stuff like this always shows up when I'm broke (which is most of the time) or I'd seriously consider it for a driver. Let us know how this turns...

I've been very unimpressed with corded impact wrenches. My cordless harbor freight "hercules" 1/2 impact amazed the crap out of me. Now that I have it, I rarely use my air impact anymore. I was going to buy a Milwaukee or Dewalt, but after reading a lot of reviews I tried the Hercules. I am...

Reference a timing light, you don't need it at all. Just look where the rotor is pointing and pull it out. Don't turn the engine over while its out and it just goes right back in, in exactly the same spot. Chrysler distributors can only go in two ways. Correct, or 180 degrees off. I realize you...

Have you ever considered slotting the hole in the pad with a carbide grinder? They cut steel very well. I've never done it and not sure its an option, but seems it would be better than putting things into a bind.

Keep in mind, the Imperial will have a different wheel bolt circle. I'm sure there is something better than doing that.

With that much play and the converter bolts are tight, I suspect you will have front seal or pump issues. Hopefully I am wrong. Whoops. I see you have it unbolted now. I'd still be very suspicious of seal issues if it was that loose.

I've removed the crossmember without messing with the torsion bars before, but you have to "pry" things back into place upon reinstalling the crossmember. It can be done, but probably not the best way. I'm more curious as to how the flex plate bolts got loose in the first place. I've never seen...

I've never seen that before but then again I've only refreshed a couple transmissions in my time. I think the answer is evident. If its cracked where it aint supposed to be, replace it for sure.

I once had a 68 fury that would periodically die and not restart. Then an hour or day later it would and run fine. It was an intermittent and annoying problem. Turned out the filter sock in the fuel tank had torn open, and the line would suck up a bunch of crap in the tank until it choked off...

I've seen a few like that. Not sure what they were out of though. I always thought it was some sort of vibration damper setup. I've removed them and never had an issue yet.

The one I used to have was 6v. Cool, but I sold it online years ago.