Recent content by mgm1986

I rebuilt my dimmer switch for the same reason and it has been working well although I only have a hundred or so miles on the car with the lights on. I cleaned all of the terminals, the spring inside, and the little metal clip on the arm that runs along the spring. I used Gorilla glue to put...

I recently rebuilt my non-AC heater box and it wasn't too bad of a project. I would check for cracks around where the vac. actuators are riveted to the box. I repaired the cracks with fiberglass epoxy resin. Definitely recommend the gasket set from detroit muscle as posted by @3C's & a D? I...

I will definitely remove the entire pan but I'm thinking the steering linkage is gonna need to get taken apart to get the pan off. If I could jack the engine high enough to get the pan off that would be awesome but I just did the motor mounts and it didn't look like an option.

It seems like one of those jobs that is only difficult because you have to remove so much other stuff. And if it leaks you're pulling the oil pan off again. I'll plan on getting it as high off the ground as I can and take a crack at it. Thanks for the motivation

Fellow enthusiasts, looking for input from those who have done it before. I have been driving my 300 for probably a hundred or so miles now, just local back road running. I am very happy how well it runs and very surprised how much gas it burns cause I can't stay out of the secondaries! What...

Yep, what 300rag said is very true. Smoother is better for removal later and it will adhere fine to a smooth surface if you keep the coats thin. The longer you can get your tape strips the easier they will be to remove. If you remove while the last coat is still wet it should come off without...

Any fellow members in the local South Jersey Tri-State area that would recommend a shop to install a new convertible top on my 1968 300? South Jersey, Delaware, Philly Area would be ideal but for the right shop I would be willing to travel further. Thanks for your input and advice! :thumbsup:

Plasti-dip is awesome. If you do it, make sure not to go to thick with your coats, lots of light coats is better than a couple heavy coats. Also, the thicker the final product, the easier it will be to remove because it will have a better chance of staying together as you peel it off (lots of...

Work has picked up so my time in the garage has slowed down. BUT, I have made progress with the car and finally had the chance to take her for a good test drive through the country roads here in Southern NJ. What I noticed was the car has a whine when starting from a stop. I can't figure out...

Yep, thank you, just found it looking through the FSM. I can't fit my head far enough behind the dash to see it but once I knew it was there I was able to get it pushed in after removing the ignition switch.

As I continue down the path of rejuvenating my '68 300 I have a couple head scratchers I could use some help with. Does anyone have a picture or diagram of where the "Starter and Ignition Switch Lamp" mounts in the dash? It was dangling when I bought the car but it does work (if I ground it)...

Pressure test is a good idea, I'll research what that involves so I don't over pressurize it.

Having gotten most of the safety items taken care of on my '68 300 I decided to take her to the gas station yesterday to fill up as I know it was low on fuel when I started the project. 1/4 mile down the road she stuttered and stalled, out of fuel. The first time in my life I ever ran out of...

The JB Weld option worked to get the socket firmly seated. I then soldered the contacts inside the housing to get a solid ground and it works well. Just need to clean it up and reinstall.

I had the same problem with my cornering lights and ended up replacing the sockets with a Dorman. The ground was an issue because of the old pot metal so I ended up soldering the socket to the housing to get a solid ground. You may be in the same spot based on the looks of that socket being so...