Recent content by Moparx

I would call that 3/4" diameter, and if you count the splines, i believe you will come out at a 36 count.

an old trick to remove frozen pipe plugs is to heat them with a propane torch, then rub a birthday cake candle around the threads. the wax will wick into the threads, allowing for an easy[ier] removal. i have used this technique on screws as small as 4-40, and it worked, even with ones that had...

those manifolds are from the "Max Wedge" 62-63 B-body engine. they may, or may not fit your imperial due to items on the firewall such as HVAC units, or engine placement causing the right side manifold to hit the firewall and the left manifold hitting the brake booster [depending on what it's...

a small comment from a 50 working year career as a machinist, still practicing today [many, many years since retiring], please do NOT use normal [cutting] taps to clean female threads ! this most often results in oversize female threads, which then will give false torque readings, as well as a...

all chrysler product wheels with the 5 on 4 1/2" bolt pattern have a wheel center register hole diameter of 2. 815 - 2.825/.830" from at least 1962 [and earlier, even those with the "lug bolts", clear back to 1933] to at least the 1999-2007 minivan wheels. the hub/rear axle register diameter...

i have used a roller timing chain set with the advance key way in multiple B/RB engines over the almost 60 years i have been playing with this brand, that were factory stock in all other ways, and advancing the stock cam 4 degrees really wakes them up, especially the 73-78 engines. also, playing...

my wife has given up her driver's license, so i am advertising her car for sale. we have owned this car for over 20 years, and it has never been driven in the rain or snow since we have owned it. total mileage is 140k. it has the 3.5 engine in it and it runs strong. the timing belt, idler's...

as you mentioned the battery cables had "new ends", i'm guessing you mean the [temporary] "bolt on" type, which you cut off the old ends, strip approximately 3/8" of insulation off of the cable ends, then sandwich the cable between a strap and the terminal, tightened with two 1/4" bolts. if so...

as the lever only has a limited amount of travel on the wheel you are using, if it won't stay tight enough in the locked position, you just screw the bottom "wheel" in a touch, then re-attach the lever with the three screws shown in three other holes that align with the adjuster slot in the...

those locking levers can also be adjusted somewhat by removing the three screws shown, and moving them over a hole or two on the round piece below them that presses on the locking rod. i have had many of those columns apart, and i actually built a tilt/telescope column with a removable steering...

the mig welder i have and use very regularly, is an AIRCO "dipstick" 200amp machine. it is a 1972 model, and works great ! it also is ac/dc/stick/tig, and i have a brand new tig torch i bought many, many years ago, but i haven't tried it.

Any time a 66 and newer drum won't come off because one can't back off the adjuster, or there is a big rust ridge on the drum, i just grind off the retaining "nail" heads [with a 90 degree air grinder] and pull shoes, springs , etc. at one time. the replacement spring and nail kits are cheap...

As said, rim B is a GM item. I have seen that many, many times. :thumbsup:

Really like your car as it is !!!! :thumbsup:

Those wheels are not hub-centric, and are therefore hard to balance correctly. Even the "cones with the 5 fingers" are not very accurate, but are better than trying to balance with the regular cones. Just my opinion. Your mileage will vary.