Recent content by Nicholas Gromak

I have a new question. Yesterday when I was driving, I had that off idle stumble again. Is it possible that the accelerator pump is making the air fuel mix sooo rich that it bogs the engine? (I don't think because I'm not putting my foot down enough to use the full travel of the pump). I...

I did that back in May. The car still ran but still had detonation albeit less. It also had no power (it still had power but it was not as quick to get up to speed).

Plugs were replaced because earlier this year (spring 2018) I brought it to my mechanic complaining about a rough idle. Engine bouncing and kicking at idle and listening to the exhaust, it sounded sometimes like some cylinders weren't firing with a puff out the exhaust. We both thought it was...

That's clean too. No allen screw in the vacuum canister. Pulled the spark plugs out of the passenger side of engine (2-4-6-8 i think) and checked for carbon buildup on the pistons. Nothing too bad but some is beginning to flake off creating a white edge wherever the heat is highest. Maybe...

I have a scope that I can stick down the plug holes to check for carbon but no socket for removing the plugs. I'll pick one up on Tuesday and have a look. I still haven't checked the vacuum can to see if it has an adjustment. Will do that tomorrow. Thanks!

Here is my engine:

I can accel out of it if I manage to reach the power valve. Yup. I got to see the boxes and read the writing when my mechanic put them in. I also checked those bolts and they're on good. The heat valve on the passenger side of the engine makes a little clacking noise at part throttle as it...

That looks to be part of the Cleaner Air Package, which mine does not have. According to specs they have timing retarded to top dead center to increase the after burning of air pollutants to meet California state emissions.

Thanks CBODY67! Will check those manifold bolts and I've never used octane booster. Only full tanks of 94 octane all summer and only started pinging after driving for 30 minutes or more (guess that's the warm up time). I read this on Thursday...

You are absolutely correct! On multiple accounts. Yes, my avatar is a picture of my '67 Newport with 383 BB and Original Distributor. Yes, I'm 100% sure that there's something wrong with the carb. It's not working as good as it could be. Yes, I had my compression checked when they changed...

Thanks for the reply halifaxhops! Here's what I got: 383 big block 9.2/1 Compression. 2bbl Stromberg WWC3 carb. Stock iron heads. Stock points distributor (see picture for timing and part number). Stock cam, Stock cast (single dual plane???) intake, Stock cast exhaust manifolds, Single...

I'm sure my carb is compounding the problem but I've only got 3 weeks left before I put the car in winter storage. I'll check again for any obvious cracks in the exterior but I'm afraid the full rebuild and clean will have to wait until next spring. I did however check that all the adjustments...

Hmm... Good point. I would like to use the manifold vacuum more at cruise than idle. I think about it like this: to go down the highway or road, it maybe only takes 50 or so horsepower to maintain speed. Now with no vacuum canister, either ported or manifold, you are limited to the total...

From what I understand it's to increase advance at light load conditions. They say you get more fuel economy at cruise with manifold vacuum advance.

They're just what I'm planning to get the distributor to do. I got the vacuum advance from plugging and unplugging the vacuum canister line while the car was running and reading off the timing tape. Turned out to be about 12 degrees. The 27 degrees I got from unplugging everything, hooking a...