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it is, but it must be pure 100% un cut extra virgin squeezed from only the best rocks early in the morning when the dew is fresh.

if you're storing with eth free, be sure the tank and fuel lines have ZERO ethanol, Meaning if you have been running eth, then you'll have to run probably 2-3 full tanks of eth free fuel to ensure nothing is left. then, store using Stabil Marine, not the regular red stuff.

Finally got the part in the mail on Saturday. The RT Specialties part works 100% identical. we have a winner!

Gave them a call and he thinks it should work. for $5 I'm going to give it a try and see.

I'll give them a ring tomorrow. Good leads by all so far!

Doh!

Looking for the little center piece of this set knob. This has been in the ash tray since I got the car so assuming there's is a threaded screw missing.

To be honest I can't remember, that was 2 winters ago and that's like 2 lifetimes for me. Sorry.

I ended up keeping the original Condenser and Evaporator and went with the Sanden compressor, new drier, lines etc. 100+ degrees out and it blows pretty darned cold given how old the system design is. I lucked out that both my cond and Evap were in good shape though. Flush them, and flush...

everything is on hold right now. crazy spring around here. I have obtained another C body cross member to modify, I was going to do it from scratch and try to offer it to others but with zero interest doesn't make much sense. Come this fall I'll dive back into it.

External regulator and you're going to need a return line for the barrel intake injection

No. So far the pump has been solid at 60psi. If you want adjustability you'll have to go with an external regulator and probably a different pump/sender assembly.

It's the actual swing of the float that's off.

Game Changer if you want to use your stock tank and a return line! New: Earl's 166025ERL Earl's Weld-less Fuel Return Fitting

No clue on the B Tank, but there are threads covering that. I used the original C tank. interesting that you found them to be the same depth (top to bottom) the B body pickup is in fact a bit different, if the tanks were the same top to bottom the senders, I would think, would be the same too

Hey all, figured I'd give a bit of an update. The 69 B Body Holley In tank pump does in fact work! Just a little bending of the hard line on the pump to make if sit on the floor of the tank, it picked up fuel with 1/2 gal in it. The down side is that the float is way off, I tried a few...

Found an old article this morning while I was sitting on a conference call. The part that really helps is the measurement from the Engine to Trans mount. https://www.chrysler300club.com/tech/rinalcc/A518%20Part%201.pdf

maybe I'm ok with a stock converter....maybe not? I put the stock converter on and sure enough it hits the bell BUT if I pull it back out to where the 727 installed depth is, which is .432" then it seems to be ok with some room to spare. the only real way to find out it to actually install...

or maybe not...you got me thinking. They will accept an 11" converter, but the stock one is just a tad over that. Always something isn't it.

11" works which is the stock lockup size